Suzuki DT30c HELP!

[Troutboy NZ]

Just under the cowling on the front of the motor next to the choke is a small red LED light.. It stays on constantly, has a heat and oil symbol next to it - not sure what colour it's meant to be? Maybe it's supposed to be red??? it's a 1995 Suzuki DT30c, 3cylinder - 2 stroke, oil injected.

The oil tank is full, it doesn't have any warning buzzers or anything. Have also given the motor a really good run and it's definatley not overheating, telltale is cool to the touch, and I can leave my hand on the cylinder head as long as I want - not hot at all - so I guess that counts out cooling related problems?

The other thing I thought it may be is the 'clean oil filter" symbol, but I can see no wires coming from the filter at all, so presume there is no sensor on it? Engine is running fine apart from a rough backfire/hesitation and hunting rpms around 3000rpms and then is fine? I suspect this maybe mid-speed jet related???

But for now the red LED that remains on constantly on the front of the engine is my main concern.

Thanks for your help.

 

[deejaycee_2000]

Re: Suzuki DT30c HELP!

Do you have a tiller or normal steering control with remote? ..... check oil flow sensor, oil level switch, and wateflow switch .....

 

[Troutboy NZ]

Re: Suzuki DT30c HELP!

Thanks for that - that's what I was asuming too - it's a full remotes setup. There is one sensor on the engine block my parts diagram says is a "heat sensor". Appears to be using oil, it must be, as I ran it for 20 minutes no problems.

Water really flies out the exhaust port, has a cooling pee stream okay too - not very strong but okay. How to you know if it's a heat related issue as the light is on from the very first time you flick the key, and doesn't go off. Doubt the cyl temp would get any heat for several minutes.

Cheers

 

[hopalong]

Re: Suzuki DT30c HELP!

May be the heat sensor is defective. Or open. Check the wire to an from the sensor.
Also is there a oil reset button on the motor?
Sometimes if the oil level in the tank is disturbed by removing the tank etc the lite may hang up. Did you remove the tank ? Is the oil in the bottom of the tank in a thicken state and is not being drawn out by the pump. How about the small inline oil filter strainer in the small oil line. Has it ever been replaced? might be restricting the oil flow to the cylinder.?

 

[Troutboy NZ]

Re: Suzuki DT30c HELP!

Thanks guys for your help, much appreciated. I just removed the oil tank to test the low oil sensor and it works! I didn't even know I had an alarm in the control box, so that's a start so I'm guessing the problem lies in the oil sensor (if there is one) or the heat sensor?

It is getting oil, I just started and that lovely two stroke oil/fuel mix comes out, also a slight oily rersidue on the water in the tub. Now I can't see any wires going to an oil flow sensor? I can see the puck oil filter ok (no wires to it), and will replace that. can I discard the oil in the tank without getting air bubbles in the oil line?

The other and last sensor I can see is just below the third cylinder, has a small rubber grommet and two wires coming out, (green/red and black). How can I test that? I can't see a reset button anywhere - not sure what it would look like? A manual is three weeks away unfortunatley. Also wire poked the pee stream and it shoots like a fire hose - the pump HAS been done recently I'd say, the pressure is unreal.

Andrew

 

[hopalong]

Re: Suzuki DT30c HELP!

Andrew, My knowledge with Suzuki' outboards is from 60 hp and to 150. But most all with oil injection and the monitor operate somewhat the same. Saying that and looking at a 91 30CE wiring diagram, it does not have an oil reset switch. Like most Suzuki' though inside the oil tank is a long tube like item that is inserted from the top and has blue/white and blck wires connected to it. This assembly is the oil level switch. It will cause the red lite to come on when the tank gets real low on oil and will allow you to run the motor for about 30 min.until the oil level gets to the point of dnager at which time the sound warning will come on. The oil level switch may be stuck due to old oil, or stuck, or open. Or the oil flow switch is somewhat restricted and causing a like low oil situation.
The same red lite will stay on if water temperature gets to a certain above normal temperature or the small cooling water sensor (somewhat like a tiny arm with a float) is not opening far enough to allow good water flow. Once the temperature reaches the danger zone the sound alarm goes off.
The green/red and black wire at the head of the motor should be the cooling water sensor.Two screws secure it to the head. The engine temp sensor should have a black and blue/white wire.
You said " Have also given the motor a really good run and it's definatley not overheating, telltale is cool to the touch, and I can leave my hand on the cylinder head as long as I want - not hot at all - so I guess that counts out cooling related problems? " Reading this leads me to believe that a water flow problem may exist for after a minute or so the water should be at least warm and the heads should be hot enough you would not leave your hand on it for long. You still could have a good pee taletail with this condition.
If the motor is not a saltwater used motor you stand a good chance to be able to remove the two screws on the water sensor(the bakelite looking item with the green and red wires) and remove and check to see if it is hung up. If you do this very cafefully try to wiggle and twsit easily the sensor out of the head. It is round under the triangle shape and about 1/2' deep. Do not try to pry it up with a screwdriver for it may be brittle and break.
Good luck

So the red lite serves the oil and water detection system.
I would wait until you get your manual before trying to trouble shoot too much.

 

[deejaycee_2000]

Re: Suzuki DT30c HELP!

I agree with hopalong ..... also check that your thermostat is working ....

 

[piercesmarine]

Re: Suzuki DT30c HELP!

JUST UNPLUG the sensors one at a time theres four on that model if its a 94 and above. theres no oil flow sensor. you have two sensors in the back water temp sensor and the one at the bottom with the grommet is a warm up sensor then of course u have the oil level . and your over rev,,but it will only activate when you hit the rev limit my guess would be the sensor under the #3 cylinder. its for when you start your motor cold it advances the timing till the motor warms up.

 

[Troutboy NZ]

Re: Suzuki DT30c HELP!

Thanks for the post, what you say makese sense to me. As an update I've had the carbs stripped and cleaned, the problem is still there, have also cleaned the oil tank, filter, tested the sensor - all ok, alrms out fine.

But the rev limiter is still cutting in after 10 seconds of WOT running, dropping to 3000rpm - everything else seems ok... BUT... it is a real pain to cold start! Warm starts are fine, but when cold, it taskes a LOT of tries cranking, tries to fire and dies - I thought that sensor was a head temp sensor, but if it is linked to the timing, could explain the cold start problems?

The other sensor on ther head (water flow???) has been blanked off and removed by the previous owner so I doubt that has anything to do with the rev limiter??

Thanks again, Andrew.