They wouldn't do me any good as there is no Elecricity available at the dock so I think I'm just going to buy a Jump Start. Walmart has a nice Black & Decker for $64.97
It has a compressor, two plugs to power DC, One I think for AC plus the cords to charge either 12 volt or 110
All he needs is a simple Toggle switch from Radio Shack to cut the power from the battery to everything else $2.49 Even walmarts sells them. Nothing fancy just on and off. Auto Zone the same thing!
Am I correct in thinking that someone is recommending a $2.49 toggle switch to disconnect "everything" from the battery? So, I assume this $2.49 switch is rated to handle the load of "everything". That sounds great, I could have saved a ton of cash...
The ABYC (American Boating and Yachting Counsel) sets standards pleasure boat manufacturers use in boat building, They recommend switches to isolate the batteries from ALL loads. This means a switch that can carry all loads is needed. This includes the engine starter motor circuit. If I did it right my amp gauge indicated over 160 amps of current while starting the engine in my boat. (V8 cold) I know of no switch that can carry that amount of current for under $20 bucks. Be sure you are using a switch that is rated for high amps. Use the wrong one and you can create a fire hazard.
I have seen cheaper battery disconnect switches at places like Harbor Freight. These switches are not rated for marine use. They cannot be used in engine spaces with gas engines. They do not protect against alternator damage. They are not marine weather tight...ect. Pay the extra few dollars and get the right switch. Anything less and you are asking for trouble. (watching your boat go down in flames while trying to figure out which way to swim does not make for a good day on the water)