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  1. #1
    Cadet jrstables's Avatar
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    Default Rod/Reel Suggestions

    Looking for recommended Rod/Reel combos?? I am new to trolling and will be doing so in local lakes, (Camanche, Amador, etc) for trout in California. I am willing to spend a little money but don;t want to break the bank. Also, what is best to set it up with? Braided line to lead core then to mono for a leader? I will not be using a down rigger at this time. Any advice is appreciated!

    Thanks, Jason.

  2. #2
    Moderator Bondo's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rod/Reel Suggestions

    Ayuh,... I fell in Love with linear rods 10 years ago...
    I buy 'em from Cabela's, in the 7' models...
    Add a line counter reel, 'n you can always put yer baits back to Exactly where they were workin'...
    Any Grease is Better,..... Than No Grease at All.......

  3. #3
    Lieutenant Junior Grade j_k_bisson's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rod/Reel Suggestions

    I'm a daiwa fan. I like the hartland rods and accudepth line counter reels. I use 7'6" medium light rods and 47lc reels. I find the ML rods give for when the fish tries to run so you do not pull the hook out and loose the fish as often. But you loose sensativity. But your not jiging with these rods either.

  4. #4
    Cadet jrstables's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rod/Reel Suggestions

    Thanks for the info guys!

  5. #5
    Seaman
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    Default Re: Rod/Reel Suggestions

    I'm also a Diawa reel fan. I own 8 of the line counter models that are under $100 each. I also run the Shakespeare ugly stick's - they are tough and work great for inland trolling (I think they are called "Catfish" rods). Get yourself a couple of yellow planner boards, some Dipsey Divers, some lead core for at least one real (though I find it very difficult to manage, as I use my gear for walleye too). I use all 30# Fireline, it keeps my depths consistent with 12# mono and is really tough. Those are the very basics and should get you started without breaking the bank.

  6. #6
    Petty Officer 1st Class
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    Default Re: Rod/Reel Suggestions

    Okuma Convector are a staple for us Great Lakes guys. 30LC and 45LC should take care of up to 10 colors of 27lb lead core. Braid backing is the easiest to manage, but I splice in a piece of 20-30 lb mono between lead and backing for attaching planer boards (we usually run 2-4 boards per side). 20 lb test Pline fluoroclear is the leader I personally use and I attach it to the leadcore with a Willis Knot- same for the mono splice to leadcore on the other end. Mono to braid gets uni to uni knots, be sure to wet the knots and leave them a tad loose till you join the knots together for the final cinching. http://www.chitown-angler.com/1tackl...ts/willisk.pdf http://www.netknots.com/html/double_uni_knot.html

  7. #7
    Senior Chief Petty Officer 1980Coronado's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rod/Reel Suggestions

    Something to consider....the lead core line is very big in diameter and the resistance through the water keeps it from going as deep as it could. I troll for Northern Pike with Buck Perry Spoon Plugs and I use stainless wire with mono on the last 5' with a steel leader. The wire wont tend to ride higher because it's much smaller in dia...gets deeper without having to use down riggers and planner boards.

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    Mark

    Did you know that dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish? ~ Author Unknown



  8. #8
    Petty Officer 1st Class
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    Default Re: Rod/Reel Suggestions

    27lb test lead core will dive to roughly 5' per color (color= 30') with a standard size spoon. Do some research for Torpedo Divers, this might help your application to get down deep with precision.

  9. #9
    Senior Chief Petty Officer 1980Coronado's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rod/Reel Suggestions

    Quote Originally Posted by ChampionShip View Post
    27lb test lead core will dive to roughly 5' per color (color= 30') with a standard size spoon. Do some research for Torpedo Divers, this might help your application to get down deep with precision.
    In my experience, it takes less stainless line out to get to the same depth because it's so much smaller in diameter. You definatley have to watch your backlash though.....it kinks easy...you have to be careful with it. The lead core is easier to load on the reel....stainless can be a pain to load. my .02
    Mark

    Did you know that dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish? ~ Author Unknown



  10. #10
    Rear Admiral rolmops's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rod/Reel Suggestions

    Leadcore and stainless are different animals.Part of the reason why I use both and in addition 7 stranded copper wire is the different depths in which they are effective.Most fish will flee from a boat and it is important to be able to fish far away from the boat while at the same time being in the strike depth.300 feet of lead core behind the boat will give a different depth range than copper or stainless.If you are using side riggers you can have your line 150 feet off to the side and then you can easily adjust depth range by using a longer or shorter length while still being at a safe distance from the lure.
    Make sure the plug is in

  11. #11

    Default Re: Rod/Reel Suggestions

    I'm new here, but I've been trolling or a while and my advice would be to use your money for the downrigger. I tried divers and lead core when I first started, then, once, I fished someone elses boat and discovered DRs. They are superior, IMO, to weighted line.

    With that DR you could just use any spinning rod until you can get an ugly stick or something, with a trolling reel. A "regular" reel will work fine, it's just hard on the drag discs.

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