A funny thing happened today.......

jbcurt00

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I cant tell much from the 1 pix, but that clip sort of looks like auto trim clips that are intended to have a screw run thru it.
 

tgp***

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Oct 18, 2009
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Yes similar. These have little tabs that will hook on holes in the windshield. Then when you put the frame over it the flared ends keep it secure in the frame. It will most likely be easier to go through the frame and windshield w/ a fastener
 
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tgp***

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Broke windshield during reassembly:facepalm:. Plexi all buffed out, aluminum all buff to shine too.:facepalm:.

oh well.....the search is on now.......:laugh:
 

GA_Boater

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Oh no!

I broke mine too. After putting a walk thru on, I put the nicely polished original on top of the truck for safe keeping while doing some other work.

Then I headed for the barn and forgot what was on top. Now I have a two piece windshield with a big chunk busted out. All I wanted to do was save it in case plans changed and I wanted to go back to original. :doh:
 

tgp***

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Oct 18, 2009
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How to fix that horn that won't blow.
the old dual horns from the Jup were dead. so I disassembled the horns. The horn will be riveted with semi tubular rivets. I just drilled off the backs.
When you open it up. you most likely find corrosion on the contacts. Clean them make some new gaskets. I just used my regular aluminum rivets to reassemble tar paper for new gaskets and........ HONK! Dual trumpet horns for a bottom feeder.......


 

tgp***

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Was able to accomplish something this last weekend. A transom, yee ha! Had just enough left over to make it.
Lack of clamps so I screwed it together till cured its works really well using screws to clamp it together (to cheap to buy more clamps). Its got a coat of epoxy (leftover from the Holiday) on it, now just need to fill the holes from the screws. Second photo shows my giant biscuit joint for the wingtips. Just need to epoxy up the screw holes, and prime, now.

 

GA_Boater

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I see the biscuit - Where's the gravy? :hungry: LOL

The factory never used biscuits. I wonder why? It makes perfect sense after seeing yours. :thumb:
 

tgp***

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Oct 18, 2009
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I see the biscuit - Where's the gravy? :hungry: LOL

The factory never used biscuits. I wonder why? It makes perfect sense after seeing yours. :thumb:

The factory put in 1 screw on each wing, and no sealer, and the old transom was not worst I've seen after being left to rot. As re-builders I think we have a tendency to overkill when fixing these boats up. Most issues I've seen with rot, comes from neglect.

Looking for a cheap rivet bucking tool for use w/a hammer, or a cheap bit for my air hammer right now, I have some holes to plug from a P.O. that drilled some extra holes in the transom skin.

any ideas? checked ebay, a bit pricey.
 

GA_Boater

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Someone ground down an old air chisel bit and made one to use in an air hammer. Back in a past thread some place.

A bucking tool can be almost anything. A weighty piece of steel will work.
 

64osby

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Jul 28, 2009
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They also used really low pressure, 40 psi as I recall.

Will try this when ever I get back to working on the L * S.
 
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tgp***

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Found it (Hayko). I thought I'd remembered something like that too.

I should able to craft that! Doesn't need to be rocket science. I'll have to pick up some solid rivets. ACE hardware should carry them I would think...... don't need very many. should be able to do search for the correct size of rivet here on the forum.

Thanks guys!!:peace:
 

oldhaven

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Aug 30, 2015
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The factory put in 1 screw on each wing, and no sealer, and the old transom was not worst I've seen after being left to rot. As re-builders I think we have a tendency to overkill when fixing these boats up. Most issues I've seen with rot, comes from neglect.

Nice work. When laying out the new transom on mine, I wondered about the separate wing pieces I found in the original and debated a similar approach to the excellent biscuit idea you did in the interests of conserving the expensive material. In the end I just cut the whole pattern out as less trouble for my one time repair. In my outboard 18 foot Starchief, the transom less the wings is just 16 inches by about 6 feet of 1 1/2 ply. I would assume the factory did this so they could get 3 pieces out of an expensive 4 x 8 sheet of 1 1/2 marine ply for the outboard boats, and they used the left over couple of feet at the end to cut the wing parts or maybe for smaller boat transoms. They only needed to use the one screw to hold the wing parts on because it did nothing structurally except as a deadwood to hold the screws and fasteners at the top of the transom. There was not even any glue used. The 16 inch across the transom part took the motor thrust and weight, with some help from the aluminum skin and the knee brace(s). I bet the same mass production economies made the transoms of the I/O boats less than or equal to 4 feet tall, though I have not seen this personally.

Ron
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Looking for a cheap rivet bucking tool for use w/a hammer, or a cheap bit for my air hammer right now, I have some holes to plug from a P.O. that drilled some extra holes in the transom skin.

any ideas? checked ebay, a bit pricey.

Here is what I bought a couple years ago and have set 100's of rivets with them.

Rivet set- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o09_s00
Bucking bar- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o09_s00

A guy needs a set of these too - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o08_s00
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,753
Not sure about you guys but for me this has been a very long, cold and snowy month. I'm ready for some warm sun and time on the water.
 
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