1981 Starcraft Super Sport 180 - Gonna try a Restore

g0nef1sshn

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Feb 24, 2015
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I really like how your deck is going to be lower like that! Great design ill have to keep in mind 30 yrs from now when I have to redo mine again :eek:
 

Candutch

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Thanks Water, Hayko and g0nef1sshn...I have to give credit for the rear deck idea to Budski. When I saw his ss160 rebuild I knew right away I wanted to put in a rear deck.
 

Candutch

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Well I lucked out and we got some double digit temps this weekend so I was able to get some adhesive work done on the boat. I laminated some aluminum sheet to the transom wood that will be exposed which allowed me to continue with the rear deck. I secured the framing in place and to the transom with ss screws and a bead of 4200. Then I finished off installing the splashwell. I wasn't happy with the piece of flooring I cut for the ski locker so I cut a new piece, this will work out much better than the last design.
I ordered all off my electrical components and they should be here this week.
Next up will be to cut the rear deck and laminate the ski locker hatch lip and a few mods to the rear deck framing.

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Candutch

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I did realize after I attached the splashwell to the transom that I hadn't installed the knee brace yet. Got too excited with the progress I guess. Oh well, it can still be done just more of a PITA now.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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Bummer on the knee brace, I hate it when I do things like that too. :grumpy:

I sure like the way you've redesigned the stern with the decking and splashwell. :thumb:
 

Candutch

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Thanks Watermann! Coming from you that means a lot.

Sure wish I would have put that knee brace in first though. She' an aweful tight squeeze for a 200 pounder to get in. I may have to recruit the teenage boy to get under the splashwell but at 6 foot 180 it will be tight for him to. Oh well, live and learn.
 

dpotter

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Oct 4, 2015
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Wow candutch, that is exactly what I have in mind for the new splashwell area on mine. Great job.
 

Candutch

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Thanks dpotter. If ya need any tips let me know and I will be happy to help, I've learned through a number of mistakes. Still have a few modifications to make before I am totally satisfied with it.
 

dpotter

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If you look at the last page or two of my thread you'll see what I want to do. It's basically something similar to the Lund crossover. I'm sure I'll have questions when I get to that part. I have a couple of interuptions to my project, then on to gluvit, stripping the paint, flotation and then something like you did. I want to use it to stiffen the hull too. I'm putting my fuel tank where you have your ski compartment.

Doug
 

Candutch

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Just had a look at your thread dpotter. That is exactly what I was going for. I scrubbed the idea of putting in the fold down seats though because it was a design nightmare, for me anyways. I have the foot for a ski pole mounted on the diamond plate floor and will put a 4" deck plate in the casting deck so I can mount the pole. There will also be a pedestal mount in behind that to move one of the floor seats up to the casting deck when fishing.
The aluminum angle is mostly 1 1/2 inch x 1/8 inch 6061. I had one piece of 6063, I think the difference is that the 6063 has a perfect right inside angle as opposed to 6061 that has a curved inside angle. Next time I would use 6063 because it fits together much better although the 6061 is probably structurally stronger I don't think it is required for this application.
 

Candutch

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Since we are on the topic of framing and structure, does anybody have a good way to support the very front piece of flooring? I need to figure out how to support the floor because my 18 gallon fuel tank will be up front under the casting deck. And if my math is correct that will be almost 160 pounds when full on a mostly unsupported piece of 5/8" ply.
 

64osby

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Jul 28, 2009
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Splashwell rebuild looks great.

How did you attach it to the sides of the hull?
 

Candutch

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Splashwell rebuild looks great.

How did you attach it to the sides of the hull?

I ran 1/8" channel riveted to that ledge that the side panels attach to back to the stern corner brace and riveted it there. Then I riveted the angle from the gunwale down to the floor attaching it through the channel and ledge and to the angle which is riveted to the diamond plate which in turn is rivetes to the rib ends and stringers. From there it all ties in with the rest of the framing. I hope it's strong enough, doesn't move at all and I still have to add the decking. I ran it all by my buddy who's a structural engineer and he said it should plenty strong enough. Although he didn't break out his calculator and start crunching numbers, but I trust him.

I can take some close up pics if my explanation doesn't make sense, I'm not sure of all of the correct boat part terms.
 

dozerII

Admiral
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Oct 25, 2009
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Awesome structure, and splash well design Rob, glad to see you moving forward.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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You could use flotation foam under the deck to support the entire deck under the fuel tank.
 

Candutch

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Thanks dozer, that means a lot. Glad to be finally moving on it again. Actually out working on it right now. Gonna try to put a couple hours a night into it while the temps are reasonable.

I thought about the foam as well Watermann, just wasn't sure if pool noodles would be stiff enough. That's my plan for the floatation foam up front.
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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Skip the noodles, hardly any value for 'support' , and not of much value for flotation either.

Other foams are significantly better choices for flotation, and I'd bet WM was referring to using rigid sheet foam as an aid w deck support
 

Candutch

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Skip the noodles, hardly any value for 'support' , and not of much value for flotation either.

Other foams are significantly better choices for flotation, and I'd bet WM was referring to using rigid sheet foam as an aid w deck support

Thanks jb, I didn't figure noodles would cut it for support. I knew Watermann was referring to rigid foam but I was considering noodles because I can't figure out how I would shape rigid foam in the nose of the boat. I used rigid foam from the end of the stringers back. I thought I saw other restos with pool noodles but if it's crap I guess I will have to figure out how to get rigid foam to fit in the nose area.
 

jbcurt00

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Oh there are noodles in other builds. Some before a Starmada foam 'test' by barato2. Some after. Test showed pool noodles soaked up water and barely floated a dead load of significantly less then previously thought.

Got to remember, when my fat arse uses a noodle, I'm more bouyant then not, so 1 noodle will help me 'float'. Tie a 10lb dead weight to the center of a full size noodle and put it in the pool.

Other stuff has been used besides noodles as well. Tide jugs comes to mind :rolleyes: Wouldnt use them either.
 

Candutch

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Noodles are out! Do you recall any threads that show how to cut the foam for the bow area?
 
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