hows this transom wood fit..look?

bob johnson

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I got two pieces of 3/4" plywood already cut to"fit" my boat when I picked up the 22 ' Holiday.

do you think this fit is acceptable?

I am thinking, it MIGHT be ok....because its the bottom corner....

14ihh8k.jpg



BOB
 

gm280

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How does it fit across the hull to the other side? And how does it attach? :noidea:
 

bob johnson

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34feeq9.jpg


I haven't decided if I am going to use these pieces...so they don't have holes in them , nor are they sealed yet!!! thus no means of attaching...YET

bob
 

g0nef1sshn

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I would like to have a better fit personally. First thing I think is the air gap that would be between the top wood and cap. If I see right the holes for the cap arent meeting the wood in these pictures?
 

SigSaurP229

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Looks to me like someone wasted a 3/4" sheet of plywood I wouldn't use it. Transom is the main structure support for the engine not to mention the cap will not mount properly to it, and a huge gap at the bottom of the stringers where they mount to the transom.
 

bob johnson

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That is exactly how the transom wood fir on my SS 201 if you look here in post 141 you will see it is cut exactly the same. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...raft-boats/556476-1986-ss-201/page10?t=543074

do you think the factory installed the wood transoms like that?

I was thinking if I lifted the wood to be flush with the top of the aluminum transom...the cap would fit fine... the bolt holes would hold the wood in place... whop cares if the wood is 1" off the bottom of the hull?

I don't care about the cost of the plywood for redoing...I am not skimping...I just think if this is acceptable...ill just use it and treat both pieces of plywood I have that are ALREADY cut!!

but if the consensus is, I am losing support because the wood isn't cut EXACTLY the shape of the transom....Ill buy new wood and cut new pieces

BOB
 

Watermann

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DId your V5 not have a Z bracket at the bottom for the transom wood to nest inside or side brackets? As far as the cut job, it could be better but I say it's all good, you don't want your transom wood being at the very bottom in the bilge water all the time and an inch more will add nothing to the strength. Most OB boats have a small transom that goes halfway to the bottom of the hull and they're just fine. Also don't seal the ply before laminating the 2 pieces as the glue won't work very well if it can't penetrate the wood. Remember the top of the 'wings' on the side of the transom need to be cut at a 15 degree angle to fit under the end caps right.

Even when your playing deadliest catch I don't believe your boat would fall apart due to the transom wood not being on the bottom of the hull. :lol:

Check out the Z bracket and how far my Chief's transom wood is off the bottom.

IMAG1302.jpg
 

crankbait cowboy

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i agree with h20 , all the way to bottom should not be a problem . attached is a pic of my 18 ft ss showing it in a bracket at bottom but not all the way as he stated. i would get the top matched up good and not worry about the bottom . just my 2 cents
 

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MNhunter1

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I'd echo what the others are saying and replace the wood with a better fitting solution. I'd also ensure to install some sort of z brace and side supports similar to the factory specifications.
 

bob johnson

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DSCF2034.jpg


DSCF2045.jpg


these two pictures came from the only V5 22 ft holiday outboard project I could find info on....

this transom looks like the new wood I already have, plus it looks like the transom is made of three pieces no less!!!!!!!!!

DSCF2053.jpg


this picture shows there is no Z step piece , like starcraft used on some other hulls. plus on my transom there is no hole pattern for a Z channel piece...so I am pretty sure it never had one.



BOB
 
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gm280

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However you decide to do your transom, when it is all finished, if you can flex it or move it even a fraction of inch, it is not correct... The transom has to be the most solid section of your boat. The engine literally has to lift the hull out of the water as it planes to make the boat move correctly. And that is a lot of force... JMHO
 

g0nef1sshn

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Yep, your transom. So it looks like the bottom might be right, but the top not being right (as in near flush with the top) would erk me if it were mine. Its funny about no brace on the bottom too. Guess it didnt come with one, must have changed in the later models?
 

bob johnson

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I am going to brace the transom beyond the way it was made from the factory...the splashwell gives a LOT of support!! but I am going to rivet or weld square tube from the transom to the stringers , for more support!...

this boat was designed to take the most outboard HP than any other starcraft, as far as I can tell.... it is rated for 240 hp!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bob
 

Watermann

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Bob I'm thinking you should go old skool and slap on some side brackets that tie the sides of the hull and transom together if it didn't have any I would be surprised.
 

bob johnson

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waterman.... I do have three pieces that represent "the splash well" minus the hinged door that seperates the well from the inside of the boat.. the side pieces of this three piece well attach to the end of the gunnels . for sure , since I have a MIG welder with a spool gun and several different rivet tool options...ill brace where ever it seems helpful still trying to keep a clean neat interior. I certainly wish there had been more guys that had the 22 ft V5 outboard that did some resto before me...the one guy who did the V5 holiday -turned islander-turned side console....posted two separate threads, but there was a gap in the middle that didn't show all his good work

bob
 

horiconducker

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Its not perfect, but i still think useable. I would just raise it so so the board is flush to the top of the transom ( where the motor hangs on ). Yes my original transom was three pieces, actually in both of mine the 22fter and 16fter. I cut the new transom out of one piece though .There was also no Z bracket for the transom boards to sit in on the 22fter like some of the smaller boats. The 16fter has the Z brackets. My original transom had the straight angles cut on the bottom, it did not follow the contour of the hull ( the hull deadrise varies on the 22 v5). Only reason to maybe follow the contour of the hull would be for mounting transducers and such. The PO of my boat had holes all over for transducers that where to low to hit the transom wood and went just through the aluminum I ended up just sealing those up and gluing a piece of nylon on that I mounted my transducer to. I will look and see if i have any pictures of the transom i didn't post on here, or if i can take any new ones that show what i did.
ducker
 

bob johnson

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well I glued the two 3/4" plywood cut outs I was given when I bought the boat...and I and rough fitting them...so I can predrill some holes and get them varnished up...

this is the best fit for the area in the middle that's level on the transom. BUT there is at least an 1" gap running up the vertical sides of the transom cut out....is that important? do I need the wood to be flush with the aluminum there?

seems like it would dent easy with out a wood backing. plus I didn't get the transom cap...so I have to fashion something up..i can see all the holes that held the cap on running along the edge of the whole top of the transom sheet.

28cdncz.jpg


this is the gap on either side of the cut out....

2ztfy3d.jpg


not the best..... if its important, ill but new wood and recut it to fit much better.




bob
 

g0nef1sshn

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Bob, it seems some will say its fine, some will say better to fit it right. The bottom looked like it would be fine, but how would you secure the cap if there isnt wood to tap it into on the top portion? If you have the means I would recut correct fitting pieces for that reason alone. The way I see it, the more wood fitting right means a stronger transom and safer for the family.
 
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