what style rivets??

[bob johnson]

I need to order some more solid rivets for the hull... but Id like to order the rivets I am thinking of using for the rest of the boat..like the floor to the stringers, and the transom well to the supports...

what did you guys use to attach the floor down?..i am thinking of just going with 5/8th plywood that is sealed...

also here is a picture of some strips that came with the boat..they look like they go from stringer to stringer to help keep everything ties together...but this row of screws doesn't make sense

also, while I have you....why do these braces have stepped flanges??

they appear to go over the gas tank to hold the stringers apart and connected.... but I cant see why they are stepped.

thanks

bob

 

[dozerII]

I prefer to use large flange 3/16 by 1" long aluminum/aluminum blind rivets to secure the deck., those thin aluminum joiners that the factory used for joining the deck sheets I chuck in the junk pile and make a plywood tongue that also acts as a doubler to stiffen the deck under where the seats go. you can see them here starting in post 23. The stepped pieces you show I have never seen used before, sorry I can't help you there.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...rcraft-boats/541427-1987-16-ss/page2?t=528421

 

[hayko1971]

I also just did it as dozerll recomends. The deck is super solid,.. As solid as dozerll's advice!

 

[bob johnson]

you used 1" long rivets..... and what thickness was your floor wood.... and even better what thickness was it when you installed the rivets????

bob

 

[dozerII]

You bet, started with 5/8 ply, four coats of spar varnish then rivet to the ribs. Have been doing it this way since I started working on the Starcrafts.

 

[hayko1971]

Also, if you wrap 5/8 ply in carpet and vinyl you need the 1 inch rivets as the 3/4" aren't long enough to reach through

 

[bob johnson]

you guy rivet through the carpet on top of the floor?? as opposed to riveting the plywood to the stringers, and then glueing the carpet to the plywood????


if you do rivet THROUGH the carpet or vinyl when installing the wood floor.... do you also glue the carpet at the same time???

I think I might like to install a Vinyl with grooves running fore and aft, for water flow.

bob

 

[Watermann]

I installed my decking in sections riveting through the glued down vinyl. If I didn't have a big belly tank under there I would have riveted the deck then glued down the vinyl in jut one run.

I wouldn't worry so much about water running all over, there's going to be only 2 ways water will get in your boat, rain and swimmers. I ran some rough water last year and never got a drop of water on me in my Chief and I assume you're talking about your 22' V5 Holly. (I get confused by new threads for each step of a restoration rather than all in one)

 

[hayko1971]

I riveted down my floor, then covered it with vinyl. The carpet panels I refer to are side wall pannels, console panels, bench seating etc... I used the same large flange rivets for them as well.

 

[dozerII]

I also rivet the deck down then put the vinyl down over top of the rivets. On the first boat I did I counter sunk the rivets then filled them with a waterproof filler then put the vinyl down, bit I would not do it that way again. I have not had any problem with the vinyl wearing on the head of the rivets and if I ever have to pull a section of floor I can see the rivet to drill them to remove the deck.

 

[bob johnson]

I installed my decking in sections riveting through the glued down vinyl. If I didn't have a big belly tank under there I would have riveted the deck then glued down the vinyl in jut one run.

I wouldn't worry so much about water running all over, there's going to be only 2 ways water will get in your boat, rain and swimmers. I ran some rough water last year and never got a drop of water on me in my Chief and I assume you're talking about your 22' V5 Holly. (I get confused by new threads for each step of a restoration rather than all in one)

oh waterman, you don't go boating where I go boating!!!!!!!!!!!! I boat in water conditions that resemble "deadliest catch" sometimes....of course it is proportioned to the size of the boat!! I don't go out in seas that have waves crashing that are LARGER than my whole boat!!

one of the reasons I like closed bow boats, or boats with severe dodgers, is that I have stuck the bow under several feet of water many a trip..... easily waves are breaking over the gunnels of boats with 4 feet of freeboard when quartering in heavy seas....

I like the IDEA of water not getting under the floor if at all possible, is that it will carry seaweed and wand and gravel with it.. and I don't want that stuff catching and block water travel under the floor to the transom..

BUT I am thinking of coming up with some plan to access the gas tank in case I get water in it , or bad gas..... I have a belly tank to use ...

on another note:...I bought a Harbor freight air -hydraulic riveter....$70 for the 1/4" model..what worries me seriously is that sears, sells some for $1,600....

and another class they sell for $500......

I tried the HF unit tonight...worked nice

bob

 

[bob johnson]

I prefer to use large flange 3/16 by 1" long aluminum/aluminum blind rivets to secure the deck., those thin aluminum joiners that the factory used for joining the deck sheets I chuck in the junk pile and make a plywood tongue that also acts as a doubler to stiffen the deck under where the seats go. you can see them here starting in post 23. The stepped pieces you show I have never seen used before, sorry I can't help you there.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...rcraft-boats/541427-1987-16-ss/page2?t=528421

where do you buy your aluminum/aluminum 3/16th dia X 1" long, large flange head rivets?????
and are they just plain blind pop rivets...or some other style fastening rivet?

bob

 

[g0nef1sshn]

http://rivetsonline.com/aluminum-aluminum-mandrel-w-large-flange-head.html

 

[bob johnson]

http://rivetsonline.com/aluminum-alu...ange-head.html

HA!!!!!!!!!!!


they LIST it........... but they don't carry it...


here is the site I went to....

http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivets/blind-rivets/nail-type-basic-blind-rivets.html

you can see in the last line of the 3/16th rivet category....the large flange head option isn't NOT OFFERED in the .875-1.0 RANGE

and Dozer said he use 1' rivets....but

I already called... Id have to buy several THOUSAND for them to place an order to their rivet maker!

I ordered from hanson rivets....

the correct length I could use isn't even LISTED....the grip range of 5/8th- 3/4".....and they are about 1" long

the ones that are for a grip range up to 1" are 1.2" long

I ordered some in the 5/8th - 3/4" grip range ....and they are short of 1"

the ones that are 3/4" to 7/8th " are ideal....but not stocked

that's why I asked how thick the floors are completely seals and installed...the aluminum stringers are not even 1/16th thick aluminum...plus the 5/8th plywood...

I am getting close to my max grip range of .750"

nothing is easy....

I guess I could try and buy more expensive closed end rivets and see if they are more available

or I could counter sink the head and make sure I have enough grip range

BOB

 

[g0nef1sshn]

thats funny, I think i got mine from them.


Nevermind, rivetsinstock, but your good now.

 

[bob johnson]

Rivetsinstock.com and Jay C......... are the same company!


every step of the way you discover each boat is a little different than the next with starcrafts..... I 'll take the ones I ordered and rivet up a test pieces of sealed plywood and a pice of material as thick as my stringers.... to see how the bite is when set.

bob