marine tex or JB weld????

[bob johnson]

so what do you guys like.... I am going to try and plug up a bunch of holes in this boat of mine...on the gunwals and on the transom... I have a mig welder with a spool gun, but this epoxy just seems soo much easier.. and zero chance of warping . my boat isn't going to be a show piece, but Ill put a little effort in for a decent looking finish if it is easy enough!!


also I have the gunwals off, as well as the rup rail channel and the piece that the channel attches to....off the boat....so it is sheet skin all the way to the edge of the boat.....should I prime and paint that area along the edge BEFORE I rivet this piece that goes on first, that the rub rail channel attaches to??

here is a photo of the piece I am talking about..on the left side the piece is already off..I am thinking to paint this are now before I install this piece...is it worth it??

bob

 

[gm280]

Bob, are you actually restoring this boat or simply trying to get it onto the water as quickly as possible? I ask because if this is a total restore effort, then do everything to make it back to factory new or better. However, if you are simply fixing it to get back to the water, then whatever YOU decide will work... JMHO!

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I think if it wasnt painted before and its still here, than it will be good. If it appears to it was primed and painted once before from factory maybe it will be worth doing again.

Or, clean it up and prime and paint just for good measure. I did that to some areas just thinking that maybe it would help it out. Not knowing if it would but I would think it would. Know what I mean?

 

[hayko1971]

I used jb weld to patch holes on my gunwales, seems to be fine, but I haven't splashed it yet so there's been no stresses on it.

 

[MNhunter1]

Personally, I don't think you'll find much value in the effort you'll apply to the piece in question. I'd just clean up the rubrail channel and the gunnels, which I believe will completely cover the piece you're inquiring about once installed. Your hull paint will end at that edge, but I wouldn't even be worried about taping it off as it will be covered by the rubrail channel anyhow.

I've used Marine-tex, JB Marine Weld, and JB Water Weld on various parts of my Nova. I prefer the Marine-tex as I find it much easier to worth with for large areas, seems to spread/skim much better. It also seems to have a bit more flexibility once cured. It's usually my go to unless I have just a small area to repair and don't want to waste an entire batch. That's where I find the JB Marine Weld comes in handy as it's easier to just mix up a small amount from the tubes. The JB Water Weld is like working with clay and I guinea pigged it for the holes in my bow cap. It'll give your fingers a workout with all the kneading and I don't think it has quite the strength as the other two, which is why I reserved it for above the water line.

All work well and have their place. I taped wax paper on the visible working surface to leave a nice smooth working surface for a final sand. I leave the backside mushroomed a bit or add a backer for larger holes.

 

[bob johnson]

no restore... but.I want to make it as sound and seaworthy as possible, and I am thinking paint helps protect from corrosion... I see many places where the aluminum has corroded in small spots... Id rather ask now than dwell on it later... I want to get these pieces back on, build the front deck support and get the front deck back on. so I can flip it for painting the outside. its too flimsy now to flip I am contemplating flipping and painting from the chine down, then righting it putting it back on the trailer and finnish the floot and transom, and inside then, paint the top half.

that's my rough plan anyway

so HJB weld, or marin tex, sands the same and has similar strength adheasion??


bob

 

[Watermann]

I've used both JB and MT with equal results. They both sand really well just after their cure time. If you wait days you'll need to use the belt sander on it as it will be like iron.

So I'm curious why you drilled out all those solid rivets to take off the rub rail mount? and did you find any corrosion underneath that needed to be dealt with?

 

[bob johnson]

seems like a third of the rivets were broken, a third were close to flaking off...plus I figured I could clean out all the holes and clean up the inside of that part and just install ALL new rivets....and not have to worry about some popping free a month after I gte the boat all painted up

plus the frame for the bow deck was riveted to that part as well as the hull...

bob