Ummm, Newbie with a '67 Bahama 15' needs advice

brider

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May 18, 2015
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Having never owned a boat before (but I AM familiar with them and have been on a boat before), I bought a '67(?) StarCraft Bahama 15' fiberglass with a 60 HP Evinrude, with trailer, for $500. The boat looks bone-stock and original, although aged.

The only things I know about the boat: I THINK the previous owner died a few years ago, and left the boat to his cranky, sour, elderly brother, who sold it to me. Couldn't get anything out of that old coot except it last ran in '12. Has a '13 registration sticker on it. Boat LOOKS clean and un-molested, but has that patina of having sat outside under a tarp for the last 3-yrs about it. The bow is oxidized on top, but should buff off OK. Hull looks clean and un-damaged. Steering linkages all move, didn't try to move the engine controls. Came with relatively NEW and un-used full set of custom snap-covers and clear windows. Took the engine cover off, float bowls look dry but clear, engine overall looks good with no obvious "molestation".

Q1: How do I proceed to see if the engine runs? This will be a big determinant as to whether I keep it and get it into the water, or just flip it and make a couple of bucks as-is.

Q2: When I snapped the covers on, the tension pulling from the stern pulled the entire windshield upper frame OFF the plexiglass, and it looked like factory holes attaching the frame to the plexiglass had long ago pulled out of the plexiglass; basically, you can re-insert the top frame back onto the plexiglass, but if you snap the canvas cover all across the snaps and apply the slightest tension pulling back, the frame slides right off. There's nothing to hold it to the plexiglass. My guess is this is a chronic problem, just wondering what the best solution to fix it is.

Thanks for any responses, my wife thinks I'm going to clean it and sell it, but I want to get it into the water first......
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,753
:welcome: to iboats brider

Pull the spark plugs and shoot some fogging oil in the cylinders before trying to turn it over. If the motor turns over then I would replace all the fuel lines under the cowl and put some rebuild kits in the carbs.

The windshield frame coming apart problem sounds like an easy fix. You could remove it and lay in a bead of sikaflex sealant in the window frame channel and press it back together. That would hold it together.
 

GA_Boater

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May 24, 2011
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+ 1 on the motor prep advice by WM.

On the top, it's very possible the top fabric has shrunk some or maybe you are pulling it too tight. Does your windshield look sorta like the one in my signature pic below?

And welcome aboard!
 
Last edited:

brider

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May 18, 2015
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:welcome: to iboats brider

You could remove it and lay in a bead of sikaflex sealant in the window frame channel and press it back together. That would hold it together.

I'll look it up, but what is "sikaflex"? I assume it's some kind of serious bonding material? Will it allow did-assembly if that's ever needed?
 

brider

Cadet
Joined
May 18, 2015
Messages
9
+ 1 on the motor prep advice by WM.

On the top, it's very possible the top fabric has shrunk some or maybe you are pulling it too tight. Does your windshield look sorta like the one in my signature pic below?

And welcome aboard!

Your signature pic doesn't come thru on my screen, might be my work network. Mine is the wrap-around perimeter-frame style, not the flat-panel style. The fabric tension is adjustable with (2) anchor-straps, but in essence there is NOTHING holding the plexiglass into the top frame channel, which the snaps are attached to. The channel can lift right off; but now that I think of it, I think there are curved corner "posts" that are supposed to attach to this same top frame, and THEY are not staying attached!

I guess I need to post some pics....
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
Sikaflex is used by window businesses and it is a sealant that also bonds well but can be removed unlike say 3M 5200 and it doesn't eat up AL like sillycone. A mechanical way if you don't like goop would be to drill holes through the frame and plexi then either rivet or use SS machine screws and nylocs.
 
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