I have returned... with a Starcraft this time!

[BWR1953]

WD-40 for now, then find a friend with a bigger selection of Snap-ring pliers!

Working on that. Texted my bud and he says he does have a different circlip pliers set. But he is always really busy so I'm not sure when I can lay hands on them.

The circlip does move easily on the shaft, so that's a bit of a help.

 

[jbcurt00]

Nope no pix.....

They are cached on your laptop from when you loaded (uploaded?) them, so you see them...

 

[BWR1953]

Nope no pix.....

They are cached on your laptop from when you loaded (uploaded?) them, so you see them...

Hmmm... the pic that I uploaded isn't on the Dell and it shows there okay.
Will continue to investigate.

 

[jbcurt00]

Hmmm, perhaps its tied to your iboats acct then....

Still noseeum here....

 

[BWR1953]

Trying again...

 

[Patfromny]

Seems you just have the wrong set of snap ring pliers. They make some that you can change the pins. Maybe take them back to HF and see if they sell them with the smaller pin. Otherwise I would take your pliers to the grinder and make the pins smaller. It might work or....eep:

 

[BWR1953]

No boat work today. Been dealing with computer stuff again. Took one back for a refund, went to a different store and bought another, then returned that one as well. Stopped at a computer repair place on the way back and talked with the tech there who recommended that I bring the Dell in for a look. Going to do that tomorrow.

Seems like a lot of issues with Windows 10 on the new machines. My dell is running Windows 7. Need to get something going pretty soon!

Seems you just have the wrong set of snap ring pliers. They make some that you can change the pins. Maybe take them back to HF and see if they sell them with the smaller pin. Otherwise I would take your pliers to the grinder and make the pins smaller. It might work or....eep:

I do believe you're right. So I just ordered this unit with the changeable pins with different sizes.

 

[strokendiesel002]

​Aw yeah, we're gonna need some pix of that for sure! :becky:

Well... It's not a pic of the plywood flipped (ran out of time, may try it later) but this is the reason for dragging g the little flatbed out of it's hiding spot

 

[BWR1953]

Well... It's not a pic of the plywood flipped (ran out of time, may try it later) but this is the reason for dragging g the little flatbed out of it's hiding spot

I'd like to see how flipping the wood works out.

 

[BWR1953]

We... have... BOAT MONEY!!! :rockon:

Got my computer situation resolved and have a couple hundred bucks left over. Money to buy plywood and whatnot!

I'll still need to buy wood clamps for the transom but I think I can borrow some of the power tools for cutting.

So what would be the cheapest grade of plywood that I could successfully use for installing a new deck? And the cheapest way to go to seal it up? Once sealed I'll just paint it again. And... how about those rivets? I'd planned on buying an air riveter but that would take a chunk out of my limited funds. I do have a HF hand riveter but I know that's gonna suck. :lol:

I'm thinking that I may be able to make not only a transom for the KF, but also one for the Chief, from a single sheet of marine plywood. That's about 80 bucks around here.

It's good to be back at doing some boat stuff! :joyous:

 

[BWR1953]

So I'm sitting here thinking about having to buy 6 sheets of plywood.

One sheet of marine grade for the transom(s) (measurements indicate that I may indeed be able to build a transom for the KF and Chief from one sheet of marine grade) and 5 sheets of the lower cost stuff for the KF deck. Buying all that will eat up a lot of my "found" money.

Then! I was looking at the pix of the current deck and realized that I might be able to get away with only 2 sheets, right? Just replace the mid-deck portion and leave the fore and aft sections as they are. Not pretty, but not expensive either.

What say y'all?

And at least it would be better than the inside-out underwear trick! :lol:

 

[Patfromny]

Tough call. Maybe replace the delaminating ones and flip the others? Maybe go to a box store and look for damaged boards you could use by cutting out the damaged areas? I know I'm spending your money but if you're going at the deck, I'd go at the whole thing. The other thing to think about is the flotation underneath once the deck is up. Could need to be replaced.

 

[Watermann]

I think his flotation he added will survive a nuclear holocaust. :lol:

Personally speaking I've used both marine ply and regular fir exterior that has one A side that's sanded and the other is ugly. I laminate the 2 ugly mugs together for the transom and nobody has ever seen them again to this day. Marine grade is so expensive not because it's twice as good rather is due to there being fewer voids and both sides are beautifully sanded and filled.

For decking I was able to find great 1/2" ply exterior grade fir that was a good and strong 5 layer ply. Is it like an aircraft carrier? No but I won't be landing any F18's on it either. :lol:

Use the dough saved for a pneumatic riveter, you'll be way happier down the road.

 

[BWR1953]

My wife was given free tickets to the circus and we're down here actually having a good time. Surprised this old guy! LOL! Pix to follow later when I get home.

 

[Patfromny]

I guess I missed the flotation install. If you seal it well I guess you don't need marine ply. I would though if you can make two transoms out of one board. 40 bucks a transom sounds alright to me. You don't need marine ply for the decking. It probably wasn't marine ply on there now and I bet it lasted a long time. I think the old timers method on WOG's sig. Would be the cheapest way to seal the wood. The only draw back to that method is the time between coats. At least that was a draw back for me. I think you have to wait 72 hours between coats if memory serves.

 

[BWR1953]

Tough call. Maybe replace the delaminating ones and flip the others? Maybe go to a box store and look for damaged boards you could use by cutting out the damaged areas? I know I'm spending your money but if you're going at the deck, I'd go at the whole thing. The other thing to think about is the flotation underneath once the deck is up. Could need to be replaced.

I think flipping the others may not work because of the chamfer cut in the sides of the plywood to accommodate the hull shape. Might be worth a looksee though. The main reason that I used SS deck screws to secure the deck on the KF was so that I could easily remove it later. Getting it off the first time was a major struggle.

FOAM - Ah jeez, all the work I did on the foam and it's still not good enough? :noidea: :lol: j/k

(Check out page 16, Post #234 of this thread.)

I think his flotation he added will survive a nuclear holocaust. :lol:

Personally speaking I've used both marine ply and regular fir exterior that has one A side that's sanded and the other is ugly. I laminate the 2 ugly mugs together for the transom and nobody has ever seen them again to this day. Marine grade is so expensive not because it's twice as good rather is due to there being fewer voids and both sides are beautifully sanded and filled.

For decking I was able to find great 1/2" ply exterior grade fir that was a good and strong 5 layer ply. Is it like an aircraft carrier? No but I won't be landing any F18's on it either. :lol:

Use the dough saved for a pneumatic riveter, you'll be way happier down the road.

Is exterior grade the same as sheathing plywood? I found some pine sheathing plywood listed online at HD for less than 20 bucks a 4'x8' sheet. So 5 sheets is less than a hundred bucks. I'd been expecting to pay more like $30 - 40 per sheet.

Yeah, I'm thinking that air riveter would be nice... but which one? HF lists one for $40 and another for $70 and I don't know the difference, except by price.

I guess I missed the flotation install. If you seal it well I guess you don't need marine ply. I would though if you can make two transoms out of one board. 40 bucks a transom sounds alright to me. You don't need marine ply for the decking. It probably wasn't marine ply on there now and I bet it lasted a long time. I think the old timers method on WOG's sig. Would be the cheapest way to seal the wood. The only draw back to that method is the time between coats. At least that was a draw back for me. I think you have to wait 72 hours between coats if memory serves.

One thing I have is plenty of time.

I'll check out WOG's method and cost it out.

 

[Watermann]

I wouldn't use pine ply, pine rots really quick and is super soft. No not sheating, I think they call the ply I use AC or something like that it has an A side, C side and is exterior. This is the stuff I get here locally that is in the SS..

http://www.roseburg.com/Product/rigidcore/

 

[Patfromny]

Sheathing is probably more like C C. I'd look for the AC stuff. C side will be rougher with football fillers where the knots used to be. If sealed well you should be good to go for some time. I think I'd go for the marine grade for the transom though. A floor is a floor. Easy enough to replace if it goes bad. The marine ply is more layers and to my thinking stronger. The next owner (you said you were selling in the future right) will appreciate that you went the extra mile on structure. Plus, as you said, you will get two transoms out of one sheet. That sounds like the way to go.

 

[BWR1953]

Made a little progress this morning!

With the right tool for the job, things get done. My new circlip pliers arrived yesterday and I put them to work this morning. Got that stubborn retaining clip off the steering wheel shaft in very short order. Then things got interesting.

I used my BFH along with a large punch to get the spool off the shaft. Quick and easy.

Then I needed to get the wheel off. The nut holding the shaft to the wheel is 15/16" but I don't have a socket that big. So I figured I'd punch the retaining pin out with a smaller BFH and a smaller punch. Uh, no. Bent and somewhat flattened the retaining pin. D'oh! :doh:

So I contacted my buddy to see if I could borrow a socket. He said no problemo, so I went over to his shop. He has a 5 bay shop capable of easily running a repair business. And I was smart... I took the whole steering assembly over there with me.

Yeah, it turned out to be just as tough to remove the wheel correctly as it has been on so many other projects here on iboats. But "the right tool for the job" in this case was my buddy and all his stuff! :lol:

He used an air tool to get the locking nut off. Had to clamp the shaft into his work bench vise, several times. But it came off. Then he started on the retaining pin. No joy at first, so he broke out a hack saw. That worked. Got the shaft out of the collars and whatnot. Then he took the wheel over to his drill press and drilled the remaining retaining pin out. After that, he took the shaft over to his belt sander and cleaned it up.

All done! Nice to have friends with the right tools! :eyebrows:

The new circlip pliers worked perfectly!



Everything disassembled.



Going to use this old piece as a template for the replacement. Will need to make allowances for the missing mulched parts! :laugh:

 

[BWR1953]

While working on the KF this morning, I realized this that I've been approaching the deck replacement issue sideways. And I should be looking at it backwards!

Essentially, I have a set amount of funds to do the jobs that need to be done right now.

And I also have a time limit. :nod:

The goal at this point is to get the 50HP Mercury mounted and running on a new transom so that we can take it with us on our summer vacation in mid-July, if we choose to bring the KF along. My wife and I are still discussing that option. But the boat has to be ready either way.

So dollar-wise, first things first. I need to get the Merc going. That means lower unit seal kit, water pump/impeller kit and probably carb kits. Dunno what the trim/tilt unit might need. It does work but is slow.

Therefore, I have to get the motor working and a new transom in place in order to meet near term goals. Anything beyond that will be a project bonus.

I might have to forego replacing the deck for now, so that I can make sure that the 50HP Merc motor is properly mounted up, running and totally reliable before we drag it from here to Pennsylvania and all over Maryland and back down here.

If I spend the current funds on a new deck, I may not have a working motor to push the boat around! :lol: