starting my 22 ft v5 holiday project....question

dozerII

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MMMMmmm Yamaha in a box , I can see why you would like to just cruise around town :cool:
 

g0nef1sshn

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I instantly thought brand new Yamaha was in that thing. Just put the box back on the trailer empty or tie it down to a roof rack a go with it!
 

classiccat

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I think theres an SNL skit about a Johnson in the box :lol:

Sorry the zip strip didnt work for ya. My batch cut through layers of paint and epoxy with ease...there was a learning curve (temp, working time, hkw much to apply, covering with saran wrap, etc.)
 

bob johnson

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added another piece top the puzzle today... I bought a really nice heavy duty dual axel aluminum trailer!!! very happy with it....has brakes .
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bob
 

Watermann

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Whoa is that what I think it is? An aluminum tandem? That is awesome right there! :thumb:

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Decker83

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WOW that is a very nice trailer.. This will be one really sweet rig when your done..:bounce:
 

bob johnson

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yes, I was lucky, this thing is really nice and it was really cheap... torsion springs, galvanized wheels, all the lights work!! brakes, that work!! had guide posts that go with it... ill have to add some center rollers for the keel...

ON the boat....I am wire wheeling the rivets now to remove all the paint around them...but the 4" dia wheel is spinning way to fast on my grinder...9 at least 6000 rpm!!!

I need to find a wheel that will mount on the buffer-polisher I have...much slower speed....plus I was flinging pieces of wire off that wheel too...many were sticking in my clothes!! I am thinking I have to do at least 50 rivets.
 

bob johnson

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did a little work today, got a buddy over and installed all the rivets that I knew I needed...then flipped the boat and found more, many that had no, or little rivet left on the inside of the hull...which means it would have popped pretty soon on its own!

then I took off the gunwals and the bow top.

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then I put her on her trailer

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bob
 

Watermann

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Man I really like that trailer :thumb:

You and I are about the only ones who I can think of that removed the rub rail and gunnels. The 100 or so 5/32" rivets holding on my Chief's gunnels and bow cover were all loose or broken. I imagine yours were too.

They sure get all floppy at that stage. :lol:
 

bob johnson

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I am trying to figure my layout. I obviously didn't get all the parts that originally came on the boat!. I want to have shelves on the sides inside the boat...some pictures I have seen have no hardware for holding the side shelves, other pictures have no way to attach the sides...

so the first question is: how did the original 80's V5 22 ft holiday, trim the inside sidewalls???
on my boat there are no empty holes where the bracing-framework for holding side panels would have been attached.

it just seems there are sooo many variations of interiors and how they were made and attached to the boat.

id like to see a few examples of hows guys ad libbed and made their own frames for holding side walls.

my boat will be a fishing-seaduck hunting boat. Very utilitarian. but I loved the idea of a nice shelf 1/3 the wal down the gunwale...that would hold a box of shotgun shells.

BOB
 

dozerII

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Hey Bob check out my SS201 thread it is built with similar structure and had the side shelves. Starting about post #95
 

bob johnson

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Hey Bob check out my SS201 thread it is built with similar structure and had the side shelves. Starting about post #95

on post # 126 you have a photo of the side shelf framing....is the vertical and horizontal aluminum sheet there riveted to the hull????

I don't have those... and am wondering if just attaching to the top gunwale crown and the floor is stiff enough...or will it "TWANG"

in post #141 it looks like the vertical piece might NOT be riveted!!



bob
 

dozerII

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on post # 126 you have a photo of the side shelf framing....is the vertical and horizontal aluminum sheet there riveted to the hull????

I don't have those... and am wondering if just attaching to the top gunwale crown and the floor is stiff enough...or will it "TWANG"

in post #141 it looks like the vertical piece might NOT be riveted!!



bob


The verticals were riveted to the shelf and just to the inside edge of the gunwale, the shelves themselves are riveted to the side of the hull, then there is an "L" shaped piece that sat on top of the deck and riveted to the vertical lip on the shelf, tying it all together for lots of strength.
 

bob johnson

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tonight I am going to look at what the islander had for shelves, maybe I can steal them for use on this holiday.

on another front..i see that most Holidays has a STEP in the middle for climbing up onto the bow deck....I am thinking that might also double as "SUPPORT" for the bow deck?

I really want to have that open with no blockage to access to under the bow... I am thinking to make the wood supports out of 1.5" sq aluminum tub welded in a ladder pattern for strength....I wonder if that would be enough for a 250 lb guy to walk on the bow deck!!!

bob
 

bob johnson

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I did some work on the boat the last few weekends..i cut and sealed floor boards( I went 3/4) because I might have 4 guys in this rig in winter time with snow and lots of gear!!... I rationalized the difference between 5/8th" and 3/4" plywood and Guessed, it cant be more than 15 lbs!!!.. that's only two guys lunches!!!! a couplke years ago I bought a marina that closed left over inventory.. and I got a ton of boating stuff...most of it is sold off, but what came in handy this weekend was the Aluminum cleaner acid that is used to make pontoon boats shiny again.. I actually got about 6 gallons of the stuff!! I used some on the holidat to clean up the inside, prior to paint and /or gluvit type sealer. plus I abandoned the old plywood for the transom I got with the boat and bought two new sheets to make the transom myself.

BEFORE:
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AFTER:

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that was no scrubbing....just spray on and wait and rinse off...did two times.

BOB
 

bob johnson

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I have done something each weekend on this boat but , not much looks different!! ha ha... I keep finding more rivets that need to be replaced. plus I found an issue with the gas tank I was going to use. I also have spent a lot of time filling pit voids and holes, with JB Weld!!

I have glued and fitted my transom board, as well as mark holes and drilled them to accept bushings I am using. the concept of the bushing is to shield the ID of the wood holes to prevent water intrusion...beyond that provided by the sealant on the bolts when used...if I can keep water out of the water...the better ill be.

I have 304 SS bushings on the lower holes and plastic bushings on the upper holes( I ran out of the 304 tube I was cutting them from, so the upper holes get the plastic).

I also went an removed more of the separation panels in between the inner stringers. my gas tank really doesn't fit. 23.5" wide and the inside measure of the stringers is 23". I want to put down thin strips of plastic to keep the gas tank from rubbing on the stringers!! the plastic is like .030" thick... Ill just squeeze the stringers back to 23" when I install the side to side stringer braces... I also reinstalled the aluminum frame for the gunnel rub rail channel. I used new holes and solid rivets!.

I had to cut and re weld the filler spout on my gas tank because it angled up at MORE than 45 degrees!...now my gas hose and come in under the top of the stringer!!

did you guys have the gas tank sit on runner or plastic UNDER the tank and on top of the ribs? this boat had some 90 degree aluminum angle riveted to the inside of the stringer and the top of the rib, and it appeared to be what a gas tank would be sitting on( I never got a gas tank WITH this boat!) I haven't reinstalled that angle channel yet....

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I have also cut and fitted and spar varnished my floor plywood ( went with 3/4")
BOB
 
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BWR1953

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...I have glued and fitted my transom board, as well as mark holes and drilled them to accept bushings I am using. the concept of the bushing is to shield the ID of the wood holes to prevent water intrusion...beyond that provided by the sealant on the bolts when used...if I can keep water out of the water...the better ill be.

I have 304 SS bushings on the lower holes and plastic bushings on the upper holes( I ran out of the 304 tube I was cutting them from, so the upper holes get the plastic)...
I've also been thinking of using bushings on the transom once that time comes in my project. Are the plastic bushings going to be strong enough? And will the 5200 "stick" to them okay? I know that some plastics are resistant to pretty much everything. LOL

Anyone else used bushings? How did it work out?
 

bob johnson

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I've also been thinking of using bushings on the transom once that time comes in my project. Are the plastic bushings going to be strong enough? And will the 5200 "stick" to them okay? I know that some plastics are resistant to pretty much everything. LOL

Anyone else used bushings? How did it work out?

I thought about that when I was trying to decide where to put the plastic bushings vs the ss bushings.. because sometimes sealants do stick as good to some plastics. these are delrin( acetal). I have applied a LIBERAL amount of wood glue to keep water from getting under the bushing, into the wood... I don't care as much if water came through the bushing hole ever so slightly and fell into the bilge...I see guys with exposed wood showing on the inside of the boats. water constantly gets inside boats and can fill up to the wood... soooo I installed the plastic ones up high!!

I really regret going to wood route....

1: cost of plywood 2 sheets......., maybe $60...fancy marine plywood $150
2: cost of varnish-epoxy sealants to waterproof plywood.... anywhere from $60 to $150

tehn you STILL have a wood transom that may or may not rot in 10 years

or you can buy the non wood transom board for about $400

MY LOWE has a COMPOSITE solid transom insert..thats 1.5 " thick and it slides into a pocket that has .100 " thick aluminum on BOTH sides of the insert!!

I don't know whats it is made of or how much it costs

bob
 
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