starting my 22 ft v5 holiday project....question

[dozerII]

I think I am going to try and seal the floor to the sides of the boat and not have any gaps or openings....I want to try and keep the water from getting into the bilge unless it runs the whole length of the floor and fall into the bilge at the stern!!!..then no debris has a chance to get stuck.

bob

That's how I do mine I lay my floor vinyl in one piece front to back and run it up the sides 4 to 6 inches, then the side panels go over top of the vinyl and all water has to go to the back and the bilge. Any fasteners that go into the floor are sealed very well with 3M 4200.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I think I am going to try and seal the floor to the sides of the boat and not have any gaps or openings....I want to try and keep the water from getting into the bilge unless it runs the whole length of the floor and fall into the bilge at the stern!!!..then no debris has a chance to get stuck.

bob

Bob,

The boat im working on was fiberglass over wood deck with an extremely good caulk/sealing from the bow to the transom along the sides. I dont think it mattered. If its sealed good and water is inside the substructure, With the bow elevated on the trailer the moisture will cook in the heat, move to the bow, condensate and drip and run back like a sauna. This is what I pictured happening in the one I have. I think the ability to have air flow will be better in drying out the inside instead of trapping moisture in. Just my .02 though.

 

[bob johnson]

OK, having second thoughts on paying a guy $600 to wet blast the BOTTOM HALF of my boat! the paint is stripped and gone from the chine up... already.... I figured I want a clean slate and remember what a bear stripping was on the other two projects I had started.

if the whole boat needed it, I think id go for it... but just the part I need, I think ill do it myself. SOOOOOOOO

whats the consensus on the best fastest stripper... I know ill have to wire wheel it all around the rivets....but it shouldn't take me more than a day to strip whats left


sooo lets hear my choices

bob

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I liked kleen strip in the jugs (not spray can) the best. I did use citrus strip alot when I could put it on and leave it over night till I got back to it. Kleen strip only need 15 or so mins before I could strip the paint good. Citrus needs hours to be effective. The citrus strip I used in aresol can, kleen strip out of the jugs.

I also used napa stripper out of a aerosol can. that worked pretty well also.

No matter what you use, covering with saran wrap or similar plastic will increase the effect of the stripper by trapping in the moisture and allowing it to penetrate deeper. Not a must but it does help.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

for me the hull was a ton easier than the sides. the stripper seamed to stay on in level coats and soaked in better making the stripping process easier. These pads also made quick work of what was left after scraping the paint off.

 

[classiccat]

Looks good turtled there Bob!

I personally like Zip-strip. Apply then cover with plastic wrap until the paint delaminates.

do you plan to polish or paint the bottom?

 

[Watermann]

Kleanstrip in the orange can, plastic drop cloth to cover the mess, good metal scraper and a 3m scrub pad with the handle.

 

[dozerII]

Safe Strip all the way

 

[bob johnson]

Looks good turtled there Bob!

I personally like Zip-strip. Apply then cover with plastic wrap until the paint delaminates.

do you plan to polish or paint the bottom?

that's a picture the seller had before I bought the boat. it is upright on a trailer now....but it will be easy top flip. I plan on painting.

bob

 

[GA_Boater]

If that is still the factory paint and it is well adhered, why strip? Prep and paint.

 

[Tnstratofam]

^^^^^ +1 to Ga's post. Unless you're gonna polish the bottom, and if the paint is in decent shape. Why strip it versus light scuffing then painting? Seems like allot of extra work if you're gonna paint it.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah maybe guys but... I tried that on my SN, scuffed old paint and such but there was something about trying to lay down new paint on top of totally scratched, gouged and mangled up bottom paint on a 35 year old paint job that didn't go so well. When I was under it doing trailer springs I saw the new paint was starting to come off and the old was still there. Everywhere I took the hull down to clean is not having any trouble at all. Sanding the entire nasty bottom vs stripping it doesn't sound like a whole lot of difference in the amount of work it takes. One other point to make... when sanding around rivets with your sander, you sand the tops making them shine but around them ins't scuffed so you have to SE prime it anyway and the thought of hand sanding with a piece of paper doing a swirly around a few hundred rivets doesn't sound fun.

 

[bob johnson]

the reason I want it totally stripped, is the fact that it needs many rivets replaced, and I want to remove all the dents if any in the hull... its just easier with a bare aluminum hull, not only to spot all the rivets but to replace or rebuck them...

I went to tractor supply and bought Kleenstrip.

when the gallon was done( the bottom of the can had jelled) I went to the local hardware store. they didn't have Kleenstrip, so I bought ZIP STRIP, ( at DOUBLE the price) and it did NOT work half as good......

my vote of those two goes to KLEEN STRIP

bob

 

[Decker83]

Looking good..
I went to tractor supply and bought some of their highest priced primer for metal.. It was old and the primer never did dry.. I could take a putty knife and remove the primer all the way down to bare metal..
I think they keep a lot of old stock..

 

[bob johnson]

Looking good..
I went to tractor supply and bought some of their highest priced primer for metal.. It was old and the primer never did dry.. I could take a putty knife and remove the primer all the way down to bare metal..
I think they keep a lot of old stock..

some paints need a catalyst to harden... it has to be mixed in , at a certain percentage and then the paint can cure


bob

 

[Decker83]

This was a primer and needed no catalyst.. It was just really old stock.. Did a google on it and found a lot of the same problems I had..
I bet your kleenstrip was old stock to..
Just saying..
Have a great Hump Day..

 

[bob johnson]

here is the latest:

OK, I cant go on with the ruse!!, I bought a 1997 Johnson Fast Strike 175 hp from a marina that sells YAMAHA, who took it in on trade! they shipped me the motor in a new YAMAHA box!!

I felt like driving around town for 2 days with the trailer!! ha ha ha

so the big V5 should shoot fine with that high performance 175!!


bob

 

[Watermann]

Good on ya Bob! Nothing like seeing a big Johnson bolted onto some good ole American tin :thumb:

 

[hayko1971]

Upside down!! It was a big deal for me to get mine flipped, it flipped easy enough, it just felt like I was heading in the right direction lol. Congrats on the motor, it should push you along just fine.
I like how you can tell just how deep the hull is when it's upside down.

 

[jbcurt00]

Nice score on the ob!