16 ft aluminum starcraft "beauty" operation

[g0nef1sshn]

If that trailer is good hold onto it. You can find boats for deal missing their trailers or sitting on poor ones. And you will already have what you need!

 

[classiccat]

That's a wise decision kazek.

On top of the pressure-treated death-sentence, I wonder if this boat spent some time in a slip with shore-power.

 

[Watermann]

Wow, what a shame... :blue:

 

[64osby]

You made a good call! Sad yes:grumpy:, but you should be able to salvage many usefull parts.

Now there will be more beer cans.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I'm sorry to hear she's toast.

Edit: Solicitation removed

 

[jbcurt00]

LockStock you've been here long enough to know better, but Furry's still fairly new:

Any and all discussions about selling the parts and pieces are to be handled via Private Messages ONLY, and is not to be discussed in the open forum. See rule # 8 about no solicitation

Contact Kazek via PMs.

I have edited both of your posts.

Thanks John

 

[64osby]

Careful Tin hoarders, Send PM's

 

[Watermann]

After taking a second look, the transom re-skin would be tougher than setting 14 bucks worth of solid rivets that are bad. Maybe not even 14 bucks worth, that's a couple hundred. The 5200 tube added in and the cost of repairs to the rivets would be like a trip to McDonalds.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

LockStock you've been here long enough to know better, but Furry's still fairly new:

Any and all discussions about selling the parts and pieces are to be handled via Private Messages ONLY, and is not to be discussed in the open forum. See rule # 8 about no solicitation

Contact Kazek via PMs.

I have edited both of your posts.

Thanks John

My apologizes.
Kazek, PM sent.

 

[Tnstratofam]

Sorry to see you run into so much corrosion. It's always hard when I'm working on a project and run into major issues that make the whole project seem more trouble than it's worth. Trust me I've got a whole building full of expensive junk that started out as a good deal.:facepalm: Still I've managed to get a few of them ( My 16SS ) back on track. Keep your eyes open and be patient, the right project will be along before you know it. In the mean time strip her of any salvageable items, and send the hull out to be recycled into her next life. Who knows she might even make it back to the water some day as a new Lund or Tracker. Ya never know.

 

[jbcurt00]

My apologizes.
Kazek, PM sent.

Perfect, thank you

Back to the boat dismantling, sorry to hear it's too far gone. Sometime it's a tough choice, but IMO, in this case it is absolutely the right choice. That's why I suggested the through inspection before taking on the transom. Good advice, even if there isn't this level of corrosion.

Recycling will provide nice cylindrical adult libation containment vessels and make room for another tinny to be saved. Perhaps you'll have a better since of what you're seeing and how/where to look on the next one.

 

[astor]

If the perforations are limited to the transom and no fatigue cracks exist, I agree with Watermann, that hull is salvagable, but you would need a buddy to help you set all the rivets. Knock out two feet of rivets and set new ones, then move on to the next two feet. Or even better, remove every other rivet and reset them,

Probably wrap it up in long day if you don't drink too many in between, and be prepared to have 5200 everywhere. And wear hearing protection.

 

[Tnstratofam]

Okay so after reading waterman and astors posts I too went back, and looked at the pics. It would be doable, it's just a matter of if you have help and time. My question would be what kind of shape the keel area as well as the joints where the panels overlap are in. I know you can seal up these areas with gluvit, but would that prevent future corrosion?

Not trying to hijak this thread. Just trying to make sure we don't send this thing to the recycling bin until we know she's really to far gone.

 

[kazek]

No Title

so, after sleepless night i went to see her again.she looked so beautiful.just her skin.hmm.she was asking me to rub her with wire brush attached to dril.she wanted me to do her bottom hull.i felt like a hero, trying to save her.i rubbed my hand against her skin.man o man she was cold.
any how.did some more investigating today.aluminum around rivets is deeply pitted.some pitting is so deep, it touches the overlap.that what made my decision to drop my project.
replacing few rivets is possible with hand tools.i have whole army of those rivets,replacing them woul require big compressor and a air hammer.
our lady Lake Simcoe is not gentle on waves.i would not feel comfortable having my family 500 ft from shore.
since boat will be reused as our brew containers......i want to try if it is possible remove part of transom and attach it back with rivers.i wont use solid rivets, just regular pop ones laying aroud.will keep u posted how this one went.
you guys are great minds.thanks for awesome support and amazing input.

 

[classiccat]

you actually do not need a large compressor for bucking rivets.

pop rivets are OK for internal, non-structural repairs. If you're going to remove the transom skin and get some practice riveting, my suggestion would be to order a big box of solid rivets for a few bucks & go-to-town! ...besides, a couple boxes of pop rivets approach the price of a riveting hammer.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I know you got it as a auction boat? i think anyway, If your not in a hurry for the scrap cash, use this as a trial and error project until you find oone more suitable. Start with stripping along the chin and rivets and practice re riveting those areas and maybe use a lil jb weld to fill in the bad pitting areas. Anyhow working on this even if it will be scrapped will give you the knowledge needed in a future project.

Heck, you may even see it as not being too far gone and just take a little more time in the repair process to gether sea worthy again.

And pm furryotter, offer him your transom caps to stay with us and let us all follow him through his rebuild

And I just spent roughly 200$ for my solid riveting needed tools. I went with 21 gallon oiled compressor and HF air hammer/hoses/connectors that puts out only 4 cfm at 90 psi i think. The size of the tank I learned is not the important factor. Its the CFM output. I think for solid rivets a minimum of 7 cfm is preferred, But I get it done with 4 cfm. just takes a bit longer.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

This was my package of stuff. The bigger the tank just means less time waiting for fill ups. And since I was getting one I got one that would be able to do more stuff for future things. The rivet set for the hammer I got seperate off another site. But most crafty guys on here make there own grinding down old chisels or the one that comes with the hammer gun.

 

[hayko1971]

i just ground down a chisel that I had and used my air hammer. Turned the psi down to 30-40 and what little I had to do came out perfect! I don't have a very large compressor.