Sylvan 1980 18' Sportster IO

dozerII

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Haven't decided it I'm going to go with SS screws or solid rivets yet.

I do have a question about Gluvit though.

Before I install the Z Bracket should I put a coat of Gluvit between the Z Bracket and the transom?
Or will putting gluvit on the edges and rivets after work just as well?

I would just use 5200 on the rivets or SS bolts while installing the Z
 

Watermann

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After cleaning and filling pits I always SE prime and paint the inner transom skin and the Z bracket. You don't have to but isolating the 2 pieces with paint would be a barrier to corrosion for a long time to come. Of course no matter what fastener you use there needs to be some 5200 on any below the waterline fasteners.
 

Alumarine

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After cleaning and filling pits I always SE prime and paint the inner transom skin and the Z bracket. You don't have to but isolating the 2 pieces with paint would be a barrier to corrosion for a long time to come. Of course no matter what fastener you use there needs to be some 5200 on any below the waterline fasteners.

Thanks for that.
Got my rivets and set tool.
Just got to notch, bend and fit my z bracket to transom.
 

Alumarine

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After cleaning and filling pits I always SE prime and paint the inner transom skin and the Z bracket. You don't have to but isolating the 2 pieces with paint would be a barrier to corrosion for a long time to come. Of course no matter what fastener you use there needs to be some 5200 on any below the waterline fasteners.

Is painting over the SE primer just for looks?
I actually like the look of the green primer.
 

Watermann

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Primer won't seal the metal, it's porous enough to allow water to penetrate but just primer is better than nothing.
 

Alumarine

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I found some holes in the transom.
I was going to use 3/16 solid rivets with 5200 on them.
The buck tail will be between the transom skin and the transom.
Is that ok?
 

Alumarine

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Oops, somehow I got a double post.
-------------------------------------------------------
I found some holes in the transom.
I was going to use 3/16 solid rivets with 5200 on them.
The buck tail will be between the transom skin and the transom.
Is that ok?
 
Last edited:

Watermann

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Are they holes that someone made with a drill? You can either plug them JB water weld and sand smooth leaving a small sanded mushroom on the inside or drill to size for the solid rivet, set it in 5200 and don't even worry about bucking it. You can then after the 5200 is cured either use a belt sander to eat the bucktail end of the rivet flush or start off by cutting the rivet down before you set it in the hole. But no you can't leave all that bucktail after just passing through 1 layer up against the transom wood, it will tear into it and be a place for water to get in.
 

Alumarine

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Are they holes that someone made with a drill? You can either plug them JB water weld and sand smooth leaving a small sanded mushroom on the inside or drill to size for the solid rivet, set it in 5200 and don't even worry about bucking it. You can then after the 5200 is cured either use a belt sander to eat the bucktail end of the rivet flush or start off by cutting the rivet down before you set it in the hole. But no you can't leave all that bucktail after just passing through 1 layer up against the transom wood, it will tear into it and be a place for water to get in.

Thank you. Great idea just using the rivet as a plug.
Yes, they are holes from a drill. I'll make them 3/16" and glue a shortened rivet with 5200 on it.

I also have a 3/8" hole just above the water from my speedometer tube.
I guess I'll use JB weld for that.
 

Alumarine

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Slowly making progress.
I want to seal between my transom and the transom skin so water won't find it's way between the two.
What would you guys run a bead of?

OIN0jZs.jpg
 

Watermann

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If I was to worry about doing that sealing, I wouldn't put anything in between the wood and skin. I would wait until after I put the transom cover back on and seal the seam between the cover and the skin then attach the trim piece to cover it. I would use what I have on hand to seal it so that would be 5200.
 

Alumarine

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If I was to worry about doing that sealing, I wouldn't put anything in between the wood and skin. I would wait until after I put the transom cover back on and seal the seam between the cover and the skin then attach the trim piece to cover it. I would use what I have on hand to seal it so that would be 5200.

I just happen to have 5200 on hand!
Thanks.
 

Alumarine

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Here's a quick update with pictures.
I've been busy trying to get things back together.
This is not a restoration but a multi year project.
Last year was mechanical and electrical stuff.
This year the transom, next year the deck. Year after, interior.

I was shocked after bolting down the motor that my alignment bar slid in perfectly without any adjustments needed.
I had installed the new style motor mounts and thought there may have been a height difference.

Before I forget, I'd like to once again thank everyone for all their help.
Just a warning, you're not off the hook yet!

Motor waiting for it's moment.
EqVl4kP.jpg


Transom plate being attached.
yoQKwfj.jpg
 

dozerII

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Looking real good Marc, don't forget to give the alignment bar a good wack with the palm of your hand in four directions to center the gimbal bearing.
 

Alumarine

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Looking real good Marc, don't forget to give the alignment bar a good wack with the palm of your hand in four directions to center the gimbal bearing.

Thanks Glen. Will do.
Was also going to pull the drive after running it for a day or two to re-check.

Now, if I can just figure out how deep my transom support arch used to be I can make a new one.
I know it started out at 4-3/8" on the end.
It was just the vinyl holding it together.
 

Watermann

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Looking good Marc! The arch is the same as your transom, you can put a piece of wood on it, clamp tight and mark it.
 

Alumarine

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Looking good Marc! The arch is the same as your transom, you can put a piece of wood on it, clamp tight and mark it.

Thanks for the tip Rob! That will help me out. I hadn't thought of that.
I've cut it out roughly already but I'll use the top of the transom to shape it properly.

I was thinking of using a strip of 3/4" plywood laminated to the back side just above the cutout for extra strength.
Just in case any big girls want to dance up there...

I did increase the cutout size up so I can remove my valve cover.
I also noticed the cutout was offset.

pNTUd6U.jpg
 

Watermann

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Yeah that's a good idea adding the backer strip. You could also add an extra cross support there as well if you really want to get carried away.
 
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