To transom or not to transom

starfleet

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 20, 2014
Messages
31
Hi All
Swept the leaves and stuff out of my Supersport 16 today.
Front floor in front of the wind shields is bad solid from consoles back but i cant see just replacing one piece and also I want to see what the foam looks like under the floor.
Now to the question at hand , the transom really looks and sounds solid and the knee brace bracket and rivets all look ok.
The transom its self has old paint on it but i scratched away paint and the very outside bit of weathered wood and the wood looks dry and like new under the weathered bit i havent pulled the cap to see what the top of the wood looks like.
I am not loaded and plywood doesn't cost $8.00 a sheet anymore but would i be a fool not to replace the transom while i have the boat stripped out to refloor it or would it be alright and last as it is.
Also is there anywhere to get suitable foam for under the floor at decent price?
Thank you
 

MNhunter1

Ensign
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
979
If you're doing the floor, I'd do the transom too. Check out ACX Arauco plywood, available locally here in MN at Menards. A little cheaper than marine grade and uses an exterior grade glue that won't be compromised if wet. Stay away from pressure treated as the copper used in the treatment process does not play well with aluminum. Use an epoxy to coat the transom and Spar Varnish for the floor. Could probably get away with Spar on the transom too for a little additional cost savings, but I'd personally lean toward the epoxy.

Many here use pool noodles or the pink sheet foam insulation from the big box stores for flotation. Some have even used old plastic bottles sealed air tight for a budget friendly solution.
 

starfleet

Seaman Apprentice
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Nov 20, 2014
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31
Thanks for the suggestions mnhunter1 I've found plenty of great info on this site on how to do the restoration work but sometimes you just need to ask the guys who have already been there and done that about stuff like replacing the transom .
I have a weeks work just cleaning the garage out enough to get the boat in to work on over the winter lol...I need to stop dragging crap home i guess
 

alldodge

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Mar 8, 2009
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40,719
While doing the transom could be a good idea, I would still check it before doing a job which may not be needed. Take a screw drive and see if you can find some soft spots, you should be able to push hard and the transom not move. If all checks out and you want to make sure, get a cheap moisture meter and drill some shallow holes down low. Put the probes of the meter in and see if it is wet
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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Pull the transom, if its ok, seal & re install it.

Many are surprised at how bad the backside is when the front looks good. Even more are surprised by the amount of corrosion and pitting on the inside of the transom skin.

Pull it
 

starfleet

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 20, 2014
Messages
31
More great advice
I figured if it was good on the more exposed to the element outside the inside would be ok.
thank you
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
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Aug 18, 2013
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2,679
If I remember from your post asking about the year in one of the pictures there looked to be a support piece on the outside of your transom. Those are usually installed due to flex in the transom. Sometimes not, but usually. I would do a moisture test like alldodge recommended at the least. If you have any doubt then pull her. You can always reseal her, and reinstall her later. What lies beneath old paint and a few seasons without a cover can really cost you later.
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,753
Pull it out, it's easy and gives peace of mind that it's not rotting or delaminating after 40 years. 30 to 40 bucks to replace the wood and the extras to seal/laminate it is money well spent. You really don't need to buy marine grade ply, exterior AB or AC will work just fine if your wanting to cut costs in half it's the way to go.

Even if the wood looks "OK" there isn't one tin boat transom job that I've seen where there wasn't galvanic corrosion eating away at the AL skin behind that wood and that includes both of mine I've done.
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
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3,405
+1 for Pull it. It's a tinnie...easy & cheap peace of mind :thumb:
 

crankbait cowboy

Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 25, 2013
Messages
570
ditto, i would pull it see what ya got and move ahead with cleaning all up ( transom skin and transom ) and resealing or replacing, making that decision when you get it out and do a good inspection.
 

starfleet

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 20, 2014
Messages
31
Thanks everyone for the advice
I can't see not doing it while doing the rest of the work and it will give me piece of mind.
With a new floor and transom and a little taking care of it it will last more years than I will I'm sure
 

Weep'n Willy

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jun 12, 2012
Messages
831
I believe you have made the wise decision. It's that peace of mind you will have out on the water knowing that all is solid and secure and keeping you safe and afloat. :)
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
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Aug 18, 2013
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That's part of what makes almost all of the resto work here so cool. Lots of great people here to help you not only make an informed decision, but they will be there for you no matter what you decide. I agree that she will outlast most of us once you're finished with a little common sense protection once she's restored. Looking forward to the progress so keep us up to date.:pop2:
 

dozerII

Admiral
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Oct 25, 2009
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6,527
Great decision, and like tns said a little protection ie: a good cover and we wouldn't have very many of these great boats with rotted interiors to work on.:eek:
 

Gibbles

Lieutenant Commander
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Nov 14, 2009
Messages
1,924
Transoms in these boats are stupid easy.

Hardest part is getting the holes to line up, I install the new transom, drill in a good 1/4in from both sides, pull, and then put my finger on the backside (most people can feel where there finger is in position with the other side), go most of the way through, and then do the same from the other side making sure your drill bit can go straight through both holes, and then seal the crap out of it, with special attention to the holes. :cool:
 

Weep'n Willy

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jun 12, 2012
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Gibbles, I presume all the holes should be perpendicular as was the case in installing the new transom in my rig. So what I did was to drill a jig block on my drill press that would lay flat on the transom skin and would keep my drill bit in alignment. Amazingly enough I hit each hole almost perfectly.
 

Gibbles

Lieutenant Commander
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Nov 14, 2009
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Holes on my chief were all over the place, some straight, but most were at a slight angle :lol:

maybe in the 70's they started using a drilling jig or something
 
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