Better way to foam a Starcraft?

[Nismoron]

I spent all day out in the 98 degree heat shoveling waterlogged foam. The factory foam was just poured directly into the empty hull. This seems like a HUGE problem to me. This puts the foam directly in the bilge. Any water coming from the anchor locker drains to the bilge. Any water coming in the boat will run to one side or another of the floor and into the bilge. Any leaking rivets and going to seep into the bilge. With your flotation foam just laying in it! Not to mention that aluminum boats are not know for their exceptional drainage due to the ribs blocking the water from moving to the rear.

Has anyone come up with a better idea? I have seen the foam pool noodles idea, but that is not what i am looking for. Has anyone ever used some sort of spacer to keep the foam from direct contact with the hull? Something to allow the water running off of the floor edge to move freely to the keel? And to allow water to move as freely as possible to the rear along the keel?

I was thinking maybe some sheets of that corrogated plastic sign material. You know, the stuff that election signs are made of. I think the holes in this are too small to allow good flow over the years. They would probably become clogged. But you get the idea Maybe even lat some relatively stiff, thin plastic over the ribs, then pour the foam on top of this, leaving a breathing area under the foam.

 

[GA_Boater]

Many of us have used closed cell insulation panels from the Big Box stores. Better flotation than noodles (more foam per sq. inch), rigid so it sits on top of the ribs for water flow and doesn't disintegrate. Cost-wise, the foam boards end up being a better deal than noodles.

 

[Nismoron]

How is the support for the floor? Especially after a few years...

Which foam are you talking about?

 

[GA_Boater]

If you use 5/8" or 3/4" ply for the floor, no support needed. Actually it's fine with 1/2", but there may be a little spring. The floor support is the stringers and rib ends.

The foam is either 1" or 2", like this - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Cor...-45W/100320352

Most of us place the foam on edge when installed. There are some pics in some of the resto's.

 

[Nismoron]

Here's an interesting read on the subject. Some very valid points made...

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...r/394706-home-depot-styrofoam-vs-pour-in-foam

 

[GA_Boater]

And a lot of invalid points made as well. So pour in or foam sheets? I wouldn't use pour in for a tinny. Glasser, the only way.

 

[laurentide]

Cheap and easy:

 

[theoldwizard1]

Cheap and easy:

Very nice job. Remember, if the boat is sinking, that foam will be pushing UP on the floor. If the floor is not adequately attached to the aluminum stringer it will just rip out.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The good thing about pour in foam is also its worst attribute. It expands into every nook and cranny leaving no path for water to travel to the bilge pump or drain plug in the back.

Dimpled drain mat (dimples down) would keep the foam from bonding to the inside of the hull. To achieve this, the edges of the mat must to be sealed to the inside of the hull so that no foam can get underneath it. A clean interior hull and mat and a good marine sealant (4200?) would give you a fight chance.

 

[GA_Boater]

Sealed dimpled mats still stop the flow of water to the bilge. All the mat will do is keep the foam off the AL. Lining the hull with plastic sheeting will do the same thing and cheaper. But neither allow water to escape to the bilge.

 

[Grandad]

Hi Nismoron. I think that using rigid foam panels gives the best opportunity to allow water to drain easily since you can ensure that the foam stays where you put it. I placed my panels in a horizontal plane, rather than vertical as some others have done. Reducing the number of crevices that can hold moisture is a benefit of the horizontal method. - Grandad