1975 Starcraft 16' SS

Tnstratofam

Commander
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
2,679
Looks like your transom was almost as rotten as mine. Looks like your making progress. Glad to see you back.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
Good deal the transom wood is in one piece for a template. :thumb:

Be sure to remove that white corrosion from the transom skin. That white seen in your pics on the wood and skin is galvanic corrosion. When you wheel it off you're likely to see there is some pitting.
 

jdupree

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Messages
185
Ok, got the new transom made. I joined the 2 3/4" pieces together with epoxy resin and coated the whole transom with epoxy resin as well (2 coats). I will post some pictures within the next day or so.

Here is my question, what size drain tubes will I need and where should I get them? Don't I need a special tool to install them? What size do I need to drill the transom out for the drain tubes? I would assume the best way to drill these out are with the transom in place to assure the proper angle when I drill?

Thanks in advance.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
1' diameter drain tubes.
http://www.iboats.com/Search/dm/?ke...it.y=0&cart_id=142104524&session_id=597783718

If you want to go with the AL tubes you'll need to flange them with the tool. Also buy an extra tube just in case, they're cheap.

FlaringTool.jpg



The drain tube holes should be drilled straight through the transom wood and when installed the holes will have the correct angle. What I've done is install the wood, sharpie mark the holes, remove the wood and drill the holes straight through.
 

jdupree

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Messages
185
Ok, I have the transom in place and have marked where all the holes are. Should I go ahead and drill all the holes out while in place, or remove the transom and drill the holes that I have marked? Do I need to drill out from the inside of the boat out? Sorry for the dumb question I just don't want to mess this up. Thanks.
 

MNhunter1

Ensign
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
970
Ok, I have the transom in place and have marked where all the holes are. Should I go ahead and drill all the holes out while in place, or remove the transom and drill the holes that I have marked? Do I need to drill out from the inside of the boat out? Sorry for the dumb question I just don't want to mess this up. Thanks.

The holes should be drilled 90 degrees to the transom. Some will drill with the transom in place and use a block of wood/metal with pre-drilled holes as a guide to keep the right angle, whereas others will pull the transom and use a drill press. You can drill from either side, some have drilled halfway from each side to join the two holes in the middle. I plan to use my drill press for what I can, starting with smaller pilot holes to confirm I'm on the target. They make some attachments for a handheld drill that helps to maintain the correct angle, but the one I had picked up I ended up returning as it didn't really seem like a very sturdy piece of equipment. I'm sure there are better options out there for a bit more coin, but I plan on sticking with the drill press and finishing what I need to with a pre-drilled(on the press) block of wood as my guide.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
JD I gave you my suggestion in my last post, remove the wood and drill the holes straight through and then when you put the transom back in the drain tube holes will be at the correct angle.
 

jdupree

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Messages
185
JD I gave you my suggestion in my last post, remove the wood and drill the holes straight through and then when you put the transom back in the drain tube holes will be at the correct angle.


I did take your suggestion and thanks! Got the transom in and the new wood plate mounted on the outside as well. I will upload some pictures later. Almost ready to mount the engine. The worse part I have left is to put the splash well back in. A couple of the rivets were hard to get to when I drilled them out so not quite sure if or how a can re-attach?? I highly doubt a rivet gun would even fit up in there. I guess that will be the fun part!
 

hayko1971

Starmada Splash of the Year 2015
Joined
May 24, 2013
Messages
448
If you cannot reach with a riveter, maybe small stainless bolts with nylon nuts could be an option.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
If you could drill out the rivet then I'm sure a hand rivet popper will fit up in the contortion spot. :D
 

jdupree

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Messages
185
1' diameter drain tubes.
http://www.iboats.com/Search/dm/?ke...it.y=0&*******=142104524&**********=597783718

If you want to go with the AL tubes you'll need to flange them with the tool. Also buy an extra tube just in case, they're cheap.

FlaringTool.jpg



The drain tube holes should be drilled straight through the transom wood and when installed the holes will have the correct angle. What I've done is install the wood, sharpie mark the holes, remove the wood and drill the holes straight through.


I see the link above for the drain tubes. I really don't know which one to get? Could someone show me the exact one I need? Has anyone used a plastic one? If so, any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
2,679
I used the aluminum ones on ours and they worked nicely. Take watermans suggestion and buy at least one spare tube as it is easy to mess up the flare if you go to fast.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
I would go with the AL tube - http://www.iboats.com/Drain-Tube/dm/*******.578418828--**********.176685679--view_id.39188

Some have used the plastic one, but the flange on the AL tubes are thinner and fit inside the splashwell better in my opinion.

That is the size you need in the link 1" dia x 1-7/8" I hope you were the one who ordered these and made the low stock, right now it says only 1 left in stock here at iboats. I've only used the AL ones and flanged them with the tool I made.
 

MNhunter1

Ensign
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
970
That is the size you need in the link 1" dia x 1-7/8" I hope you were the one who ordered these and made the low stock, right now it says only 1 left in stock here at iboats. I've only used the AL ones and flanged them with the tool I made.

I just received 4 the other day, so I may be the guilty one. I did find 2 different items listed with the same part number though. One only said 3 in stock when I tried to put 4 in my cart, the other let me order 4 no problem. Unfortunately, the one with the quantity I need was a few cents more though. Hope the admiral doesn't count my pennies šŸ˜„

Exact same item though 1x1-7/8 aluminum tube
 

jdupree

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Messages
185
Thanks for the input guys. Now worries about the tubes. I am sure I can find some shortly. I need to get this done so I might have to look on ebay.

I have the new transom in and the motor mounted back. I will take some pictures this evening and post. I still have the splash well out until I get everything re-wired.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
It may be easiest to install the drain tubes before putting the splashwell back in.
 

MNhunter1

Ensign
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
970
Thanks for the input guys. Now worries about the tubes. I am sure I can find some shortly. I need to get this done so I might have to look on ebay.

I have the new transom in and the motor mounted back. I will take some pictures this evening and post. I still have the splash well out until I get everything re-wired.


Search on iBoats for: 021002-188D

You'll see two different options, both are the exact same part. The $1.87 option has only one in stock. The $2.07 option allowed me to put 5 in the cart...I didn't attempt any higher quantities.
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
2,679
If you're in a big hurry you could always check with a local marina or boat repair shop. They sometimes have them on hand.
 
Top