Here we go with the 16ss

[SigSaurP229]

I think we have all seen the pics now and we are ready to rock and roll.

If not lets get started.







My goal with this boat is to appeal to a wide variety of people that being said I think it needs to be painted

The green just isn't going to work.

So I want to start this thread a little more technical than my last since luckily my demo is already done.


I want the green to go and I want to do this in a timely fashion, the other problem is I am in no mood to spend hours upon hours, sanding and sanding and more sanding, we all know it is one of the worst jobs to do.

I have a few questions yes lets call it a shortcut.

Rather than sanding, I am thinking about Blasting the hull all the way to bare aluminum.

A few questions,

I am new to blasting, and I think a gun will be well worth the investment.

I beleive sand is going to be to harsh and could scar the aluminum, glass would probably work well but I am trying to stay away from, silica based blasting compounds. So can I do it with soda or crushed walnut shells?

Would it be worth a $25 harbor freight gun investment? I consider the cost of the blasting compound as offsetting since I will have to pay for sandpaper anyways I think I spent about $150.00 in just sandpaper for my 18' anyways.

Will my compressor handle it?

Its a Kobalt 60 gallon 220 volt puts out 11.7 scfm @90 psi, and more at lower psi.

Currently set up with a Husky regulator with an inline dryer as well.


As far as painting after since it would be bare aluminum, I could always but 2 quarts of self etching primer (cheaper than buying by the rattle can anyways) and 2 quarts of high build after.

Can it be done with my set up.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

From here, it looks like the paint is faded, but in pretty good shape. Scuffed, not removed, green original paint should be a good base to shoot a primer coat or 2.

If it's stuck, why remove the existing paint?

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

From here, it looks like the paint is faded, but in pretty good shape. Scuffed, not removed, green original paint should be a good base to shoot a primer coat or 2.

If it's stuck, why remove the existing paint?

So I don't spend many laborious hours scuffing it. There are a crap ton of decals everywhere on the bow and gunnells as well. Not to mention I am thinking ahead to all of the glue on the inner hull from vinyl decals and such as well. I think I can blast all of it off quicker than I can get the decals, vinyl glue and crap off all at once. Without fighting with chemicals strippers and heat. Remember I have to do this quick and I am always working with my toddler except on the rare occasion that he is napping or I have assistance at home.

Glue Stripper and a toddler don't mix.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

Duh, I thought you meant hours sanding it bare.....

Know anyone in Canada that doesn't mind violating HazMat shipping regs? Of course, if SafeStrip is waterbased, it shouldn't really be considered HazMat to ship well packaged......... Cheap, quick & easy whether you add IM's secret ingredient: Flour......

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

Do you think that is better and quicker than blasting the hull?

I also figured that if I just went ahead and blasted everything I would have a blank clean slate to work with as well and that would make things go back together much quicker too.

Not to mention the paint on the Evinrude going on it is atrocious and flaking off too.

My thought was I could blast everything clean in about 2 days start from a blank canvas and have the whole thing painted in about 2 weeks that way.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

I've never had anything blasted or tried to blast anything, so I can't be much help.

If you've got a lot of stuff stuck to the hull inside & out besides paint, motor parts to blast, possibly a trailer &/or trailer parts, it might prove efficient and cost effective to buy a blaster. It's another tool, so once you've got it, other stuff will end up blasted.

Soda is a good choice, as is walnut shells, for aluminum. But having never done it, I have no idea how good the results will be, or how difficult/costly (time & media) to do. Is the blaster for soda/shells different then a 'sand' blaster?

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

Soda blaster is a little different but any blaster will shoot shells.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

Didn't Dozer do some blasting? Glass beads I think. Continuing to think out loud - Yeah, he did some of the outdrive parts. I'm not sure about the hull.

 

[dozerII]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

Hey Sig, you will need a much bigger compressor to do much blasting. I takes a lot of air and you have a very large surface to do. It won't take glue off very well, just like silicone, the beads just bonce off. Also you will have a huge mess to contend with from blasting and entire boat. Looking at the hull the paint looks to be in pretty good condition, I would agree with jb a light sanding then paint it. I have never had a problem getting decals of with a heat gun and razor knife.

 

[InMotion]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

Sig --- I too have only used paint stripper --- for decals, if you don't have heat gun --- I used a 100 watt bulb in a metal bezal (I had an old light unit) and put it over/really close to the stickers --- took about a minute and with a razor blade they came right off.

Scuff and prime and paint worked for me as well in the past --- even with 4 dogs leaping in and out of the boat all summer long --- every other day or more actually! So, if you can go that way, it would save you a ton of time and $$!

J.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

So I don't spend many laborious hours scuffing it. There are a crap ton of decals everywhere on the bow and gunnells as well.

I know that this is a flip rig, but if B2 got his done in 2 days, I figured you could in less, esp since this SS looks to be in much better shape.

all told, it took me maybe 4-5 hours per side counting scraping the stickers and glue. good to remember that paint jobs don't have to involve months of prep, climate controlled conditions, or a compressor and spray rig. nor are spray-bomb jobs necessarily not cost effective.

If you can make the blasting route work, great, but I wouldn't necessarily want to go bare hull, unless I planned to leave some bare, is all.

 

[barato2]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

my 2 pesos' worth: you'll never get the adhesion the factory paint has, so use it as a substrate. heat gun is $20 and makes short work of stickers....don't forget to buy one of the razor blade holders, you'll take forever and cut yourself trying to just hold bare blade. then use solvent (i used carb spray but brake spray would likely work better in terms of preserving the substrate) and razor blade to get residual glue off. i don't think you'll regret doing it this way.

but if B2 got his done in 2 days, I figured you could in less :lol: if you can't work faster than THAT idiot......

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

but if B2 got his done in 2 days, I figured you could in less :lol: if you can't work faster than THAT idiot......

I meant because of the MUCH smaller hull, but whatever works........... :watermelon:

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

Started the remaining tear out today for some reason the bow rails are really fighting hard.

I would like to get the hull blasted, but it isn't in the budget, I don't think my compressor can keep up, and the biggest reason is the new paint will adhere to the facory paint better anyways. I am looking forward to slinging some paint with the new compressor though. I did the 18' with a small 21 gallon that was barely pushing 6 scfm at 40 I am thinking the new compressor should be alot easier.

 

[cj8mule]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

Harbor freight sells 220 sand paper for a DA sander. Somewhere around $20 for 50 stick-on sheets and you only need 1 box. You're compressor will run a DA sander for the most part. (It won't be full on high speed the whole time, but if you throttle it back a little the wait time won't be to bad).

You're only looking at maybe 10-15 hours to sand that hull and feather any chips. My 16' SS took around 12 hours and my 18' SS took around 20 hours.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

This is a flip, so, light sand, prime and paint. Stripping bare via blasting is way more work and $$$.

I think you said 90 days for this project, is that right?

OK, you better get to work, tic toc tic toc!

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

The schedule looks like this presently,

Up at 0730 feed toddler, head to shop at 0815 work until 12:15 we break for lunch feed toddler. Nap toddler work by myself until 1:30 pm. Get toddler up snack for toddler back to shop at 2 pm. Work until 4 pm when I come inside get ready for my actual job, then head to work be there @5 pm, leave at 1 am sleep, and back up and ready at 0730 again.

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

Up we go, started stripping here and cleaning her out today, all of the branches brush tree limbs and rotten plywood are out. Bow rails cleats and lights are off and carefully cataloged so that she will go back together much quicker. Steering cable is stuck, and useless probably just going to cut it in half and yank it out. Will probably rob the one out of the 18 ss or donor boat if it is long enough.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

Not sure the one currently in the 18SS will fit the new 16SS, but I guess you could measure it & see.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Here we go with the 16ss

That 18SS cable will be too long There is no place to store the excess.