1973 starcraft ss restore in progress

[oldhaven]

I have to agree with Watermann, but it will work fine for a few years.

 

[Marvelous5891]

I just read your whole build. It's looking really great cc. I'll be starting on my project this spring as time allows. 1964 18' holiday. I'm located in northern MN as well

 

[crankbait cowboy]

No Title

thanks for stopping by fellas and for the input, where in Mn. marvelous, and now you guys got me going in circles, but that's why I ask. aluminum to stringers would work, , I guess I figured if I treat the heck out of it, it would hold up as well as my transom or deck, I agree , that aluminum would be better, but am I way off base thinking this system would last like 30 years? what really are the negatives to my system, if sealed properly? I guess from looking at some other projects, I figured wood would be fine, but maybe not best. I appreciate the input ( even if its not what I wanted to hear ) but that's why I ask , as lots of knowledge on this forum, and I want to get it right. I am on fence here, and if somebody could elaborate on why not? do this, it would help swing me to the aluminum side.

 

[Watermann]

Hopefully I'm not the only bad guy here.

 

[Marvelous5891]

Cc, about an hour north of Duluth

 

[crankbait cowboy]

Not bad water, that's why I posed the question, and now ya got my wheels turning on how I could do it with aluminum angle 1x1 and 2x2 and still have it easy to remove if needed. A bit depressed as I thought I had a good plan and spent some valuable time ( coulda been cleaning the garage) and now I am doubting myself, uuuggg. Gonna have to rethink this. Once again thanks for chiming in , as I respect your opinion

 

[Tnstratofam]

If the wood is sealed good ( like our wood transoms ) why wouldn't it last just as long? I'm not trying to stir the pot. I really am curious because I probably would consider using wood to frame the tank too.

 

[Watermann]

Just wanted to make sure you read again what I posted. Just giving my preference of materials for such jobs since you asked. I'm not saying it can't be used.

Have to say cc I'm not a big fan of SPF dimensional lumber in boat work and below deck especially. To me the preferred material is AL sheet, brackets and angle with rivets and never worry about it's longevity or shifting. I know lumber is easier to work with, is strong and probably will last a long time if sealed.

 

[bunnymoney]

What is the material fore and aft of the tank in your picture?



How old was it?


Having trouble showing your photo #4 in post 12.

 

[oldhaven]

CC, didn't mean to worry you and your work looks first class. Your plan should be fine for quite a long time and maybe for as long as you have the boat if you take care of it. I just prefer to have nothing below deck that can rot, since it is such a warm and humid environment with poor ventilation. Are you going to epoxy the wood? When you seal it pay special attention to the end grain.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

No Title

tnst - that was my thinking also
waterman - yep , I am hearing ya man, and appreciate your take on situation, and agree aluminum would be top choice
bunny - 2x6 that I would treat
oldhaven - hearing you also, and yes I would do 3 coats epoxy and extra on the ends
I am really on the fence here, as all good thoughts coming at me , I agree best would be aluminum , and no worries if I went that route, I guess if I went with wood I would most likely have that " I wonder if " factor . decisions decisions if I went the aluminum route what are your thoughts on the pic. I would use like 1/4" thick 2x2 angle on ends and down sides attached to stringers, ( blue) the angle aluminum would fit down over top of tank . I cant decide what I want to be honest, as it seems to me I could go either way and both would work

 

[BWR1953]

Let me help push you over the edge.

Aluminum brings peace of mind.

Wood brings doubt.

'Nuff said. :joyous:

 

[crankbait cowboy]

No Title

yep, you guys got me on the edge of the cliff. now I am thinking 1/8" 1.5 x 1.5 angle , and for cost reasons I am thinking just 4 " stubs on the ends instead of a full 5 foot run , to keep tank from moving port / starboard. angle on both ends and over top , rivet some angle stubs instead of a full run along side of tank. looking for good/ bad / ugly from the crew? see pic may help explain my thoughts. the blue is stringers and red would be angle aluminum

 

[dozerII]

That looks like a good plan that will ever rot

 

[jbcurt00]

yep, you guys got me on the edge of the cliff....

Let me give ya just another nudge:
Think of all the extra gear you can carry because the AL and rivets is so much lighter then sealed wood and screws.

And to make sure both feet got closer to the precipice:

Or w the same gear load, you'll surely pick up 1, maybe 2, tenths of an MPH at WOT w out that excess weight*
:becky:

As Glen said, layout looks good

*YMMV

 

[crankbait cowboy]

tank is resting on neoprene along ribs, do you guys see anything wrong with just an aluminum frame on the top, or should it be ok , as my thinking is open air is a good thing

 

[Watermann]

I would do something simple like this in your last diagram.

Using 1/4" thick 2x2 angle AL. 2 pieces, one run from stringer to stringer on each end of the tank. The angle will hold down and keep from end to end movement of the tank. The V belly tank won't move side to side with hold down brackets on top since it can't move up. Adhere the neoprene to both of the inside angles. For attachment to the stringers use the same angle as brackets to rivet or machine bolt the tank bracket together and to the stringers. No need for walls on the ends leave it open with just those 2 brackets on the ends. If concerned at all you could add a similar brackets in the center with the angle upside down so it would only hold down in the center.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

No Title

yep, h20 you just explained my plan better than I could. I guess I was thinking 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 and 1/8" thick ( having trouble finding 1/4 in thick ) those stubs on sides may not be necessary due to belly , but not to much work to do ( maybe overkill) neoprene as you stated and use the angle to make brackets to stringers , all riveted , and actually considered one down the center if I see the need after getting ends done . ya think I am a bit light with 1/8" and if I go 2 inch I would need to cut out a bit on top angle on aft side as fittings are close to edge of tank

 

[Watermann]

Reason I was thinking 2" angle was for 2 reasons. The amount of space the neoprene would take up and the edge of the fuel tank is rounded which would leave only maybe an inch of angle surface area in contact holding with 1.5" angle.

Yeah 1/8" thickness should be plenty stout, I think I read you wanted to use 1/4". I imagine 1/8th 6061 extruded angle AL would be stronger than any aftermarket above deck tank tie down kit you would buy. Depending on how far in the cutout goes for the fittings, 1/2" shouldn't be a big deal. If concerned you could always use a smaller piece of angle and double it up out a ways on either side of the cutout. Back butter the extra scab piece with 5200 and it'll stay put about forever.

If you have the 1.5" angle already then you can check it out and see if you think it's going to be a go or not. If you're buying big box AL I know that stuff is crazy priced for 1/8th" x 2" x 8' angle is $5.60 a foot here at my HD. That's why I bought a bunch of AL for my casting deck support at a local machine shop for less than half the price per foot.

On another note...

Whoa that one clamp is completely mind boggling :lol:

 

[crankbait cowboy]

Lol Yeah, that baby is an exhaust clamp I had laying around that I used when pressure testing the tank, no aluminum yet so gonna try track some 1/8". 2x2 down along with some 1x1 to put on inside of stringers to screw floor door to