1976 Starcraft 16ft SS hull question

[MUSKIE-HUNTER]

Hello,

I'm a new owner of a 1976 starcraft 16ft super sport. The boat was stored for a couple of years. I have not had it in the water yet. There appears to be a leak in the hull that's leaking water. What's the easiest way to fix this? I was thinking about using jb weld but the drip has not stopped dripping yet. It's located in the seam from the piece that comes down from the bow.

see attached pic

 

[Starman8]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16ft SS hull question

I'm not going to tell you to pull the floor and smash rivets together. I will ask you to crawl under the transom, see if there is a keel plate that runs from the bow belly under the centerline. I am going to ask if you are looking into an open end to that strip, if it exists at all.

After that, two products that are a tinnies best friend are Gluvit and WaterWeld, made by JB in stick form 2 part epoxy like a putty.

This stuff seals seams and flexes just enough to not fall off. It handles the friction created when running.

If you have that hollow keel plate, PM me for a fix.

 

[Starman8]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16ft SS hull question

Your picture of the belly is fine, but water seeks its lowest point to escape. That means even though it is leaking there, it may not be the only reason.

Is the keel strip at the aft end open/hollow?

 

[STARCRAFT16SS]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16ft SS hull question

I'm not going to tell you to pull the floor and smash rivets together. I will ask you to crawl under the transom, see if there is a keel plate that runs from the bow belly under the centerline. I am going to ask if you are looking into an open end to that strip, if it exists at all.

After that, two products that are a tinnies best friend are Gluvit and WaterWeld, made by JB in stick form 2 part epoxy like a putty.

This stuff seals seams and flexes just enough to not fall off. It handles the friction created when running.

If you have that hollow keel plate, PM me for a fix.

I tried doing the hard way...removed the floor and smashed rivets...
there was one loose rivet that I fixed but that did not stop the leak..
and it was about the same area as yours...there was factory glue/sealer
between the 2 layers of aluminum with a small crack/gap in the sealer..not the aluminum...the sealer was too hard to flow together when I hammered
the rivets...I did not know about this web site and Glovit when I was fixing
the leak...I used lots of regular JB Weld in layers on the inside...I did overkill,
...the JB Weld seems thick when you first apply it, but it will heat up and
almost run like water and it really got into the crack in the sealer....
turned out great...I've read on this site that Glovit is better because it is
more flexable...time will tell....its been 4 years..still happy with the
JB Weld...ps...I cleaned up the aluminum before using the JB Weld

 

[Starman8]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16ft SS hull question

The reason I mentioned the keel guard is this. I have spoken with Starcraft and they admitted certain one-piece hull designs included this hollow guard. I asked why punch holes in a perfect one-piece hunk of metal. They said the plate had no structural need, just there to accomodate beachers. But....................

they did admit the gauge difference became an issue when flexing. IF, the end is hollow, and you launch the boat, the channel fills with water and with pressure, allows water to be forced upward into the flexing hull area rivet spaces.

Instead of removing this keel plate, better to fill it and make it whole. The issues are freezing temperatures. The fill must be waterproof and freeze proof, like hockey puck material. Once that void is filled, then the exterior repair of the seams created by this useless piece can be succesful.

Go crawl under a newer Starcraft and you will NOT see this piece anymore!!