Starcraft SF14 LLW

[lanedouglas47@gmail.com]

I have my Starcraft upside down, and in the garage






I had a local marina water / sand blast the below water line, and transom. It's now clean, no paint, no remaining corrosion, surface is not shiny / slick, but dull and feels like 320 grit sand paper.

please suggest next steps:

Jamestown Distributors suggested sealing seams, rivets, any pitting with Gluvit.
I need suggestions here, options would be, seal seams, rivets, pitting with Gluvit, or seal with other product?, or do nothing? Boat did not leak before I blasted bottom.

Prime-- yes or no? I think what I pick in next question answers this, but any input welcome.

Paint--please suggest paint, roll or brush, or does it matter?, I think I will need bottom paint, but not sure. Live on fresh water lake (Kentucky Lake), there could be a few times when I leave boat in water for 2 to 3 weeks.

Please detail any required steps that I left out due to my lack of experience, like vinegar wash, or other treatments unique to an aluminum bottom.

please pardon my detail, but this is all totally new to me, I have zero experience in this regard, but ability, and time, plus no local shop to do it for me!

thanks

Lane Douglas

 

[lanedouglas47@gmail.com]

No Title

 

[lanedouglas47@gmail.com]

Moderator--please remove this post, I edited first post

 

[jbcurt00]

Please dont start multiple topics about the same subject.

Deleted the duplicate you started in the Starcraft Sub-forum, then moved this topic there.

If you think you'd be better served in a different sub-forum then the 1 you started a topic in, just ask any Mod to move it.

Thank you and good luck w your project

 

[Watermann]

I strip my boats and found the Jasco stripper to work best. Some have used Fasco Steelflex epoxy on the bottom, below the waterline of their boats which could help with sealing minor pitting on the bottom. First you need to strip and clean the surface to see if there is AL pitting before deciding.

 

[Decker83]

On question #3. I would not use the Gluvit on the entire bottom of the boat. It is used primarily on the inside seams and rivets.. The Gluvit will dry hard and after time will crack and trap water if used on the bottom of the hull.. This can cause more corrosion.. Just my 2 cents..
If you have a lot of deep pitting, you may need to address this before painting.. A lot of members here use marine-tek or JB weld. There are a lot of products available.
As far as sanding it down, I would not think you need to unless its really rough.. If you do decide to sand it , try not to take off too much material..
A lot will depend on the paint you use on the bottom to determine if you need to sand or not.
As far as primer, you will need to pick a paint you want to use and the factory recommended primer.
Some of the paints you see used here on I-boats or not made for below the water line. Most of the members that use this type of paint don't leave their boat in the water for long periods of time. Maybe a day or two at the most.. If you want to leave yours in the water you need to use a good bottom paint..
Application of the paint will be determined by your equipment and the factory recommendation.
Hope some of this helps you.
By the way,:welcome:

 

[lanedouglas47@gmail.com]

jbcurt00--thanks for the info, and your assistance
Watermann--thanks, I have already removed the old paint and corrosion, but thanks for your input, I will edit first post to clarify my current situation.
Decker83--I planned to use Gluvit ONLY on seams and rivets, plus any pitting that looks troublesome, I have a local former Marina operator that will help me inspect bottom first ( he's a river boat captain, and currently working). Is there a sealer that will not dry hard? JB Weld will be hard, I have not used Marine-trek, but seen it for sale.
The bottom is now clean, but not slick, I will wait until my friend above can actually see it before any action. I was hoping someone was familiar with the finish after "water/ sand blasting".
I plan on using anti-fouling paint, unless advised otherwise. Boat will be mostly on trailer, used, then back on trailer, but I have a dock, with (2) slips, I keep a pontoon in (1), on a lift. The other slip has no lift. I may leave boat in water, at my dock, for a day, a week, maybe longer, if fishing in this area.
Thanks for the welcome, much appreciated.

 

[Watermann]

I've not seen anyone use AF paint on an AL SC boat and for sure not a 14' utility boat. Most of the AF painted boats are large cruisers that don't even have a trailer and are glass boats. I don't think AF paint plays well with AL either or at least some doesn't due to copper in the paint.

I did mention an alternative to help seal and protect, the Fasco Steel Flex epoxy coating for below the waterline.

 

[Decker83]

I've not seen anyone use AF paint on an AL SC boat and for sure not a 14' utility boat. Most of the AF painted boats are large cruisers that don't even have a trailer and are glass boats. I don't think AF paint plays well with AL either or at least some doesn't due to copper in the paint.

I did mention an alternative to help seal and protect, the Fasco Steel Flex epoxy coating for below the waterline.

Watermann is steering you in the right direction.. I would look into the Steel Flex also..
Let us know what your river boat captain has to say..

 

[lanedouglas47@gmail.com]

Thanks for input.
If I use the Steel Flex product, will it require a primer, or will it be only product required?
Will I need any additional prep to existing surface?
Which Fasco Steelflex product? I looked at Fasco website, they have several products.
I asked Fasco for recommendations also, but first hand experienced individuals is my choice.

 

[Watermann]

The 9xc, and I understand Fasco recommends no primer. Surface prep will be key to proper adhesion, no short cuts.

http://fascoepoxies.com/Fasco-9XC-Steel-Flex-Epoxy-Coating-Clear.html