Starcraft with bottom corrosion

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May 17, 2017
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I have a 2009 Starcraft, bottom has saltwater corrosion, has been painted. I need to remove the paint, and clean up the corrosion, then patch any holes, then prime and paint.
Where / how do I start?
History: I purchased the boat from a charity, and was told the bottom was dirty, need washing. I had a retired marine dealer inspect today, he advised that it had saltwater corrosion, that had been painted over, and some of the corrision may be through, or nearly through the hull.
How to do it, what to use, my project for the winter!
 

GA_Boater

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If you can show us some pictures, we can make better suggestions on how to fix her up.

What model is she? It may be best to flip her upside down to really get a good look at what's happened and how to repair the damage.

BTW - Deleted the same thread in the Resto section.
 
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I think it's a Fisherman 14, not positive, plus no model name listed on any of the paperwork.
I'll take pictures tomorrow. Finish feels rough, like sand in the paint. Motor is still on the boat, as I plan to fish a few more weeks. It does not leak, but friend of my neighbor, who owned a marina for many years inspected, he said it was salt water corrosion. He suggested water blasting to remove paint and corrosion, then new paint. If the corrosion will not continue corroding, and only negative is loss of speed / performance, then I will do nothing. I live on the lake, ramp 3 miles from house, I fish within 5 miles of ramp.
If repair is required, I will remove motor, then turn boat over in order to repair.
Thanks for assist with other post.
I tried to post 2 pictures
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Welcome aboard the Starmada :wave:

Yeah the only way to make repairs effectively is to pull the motor, pull the boat off the trailer and flip her into the turtle position. Strip all the paint off and then we can evaluate the extent of the damage to make a little more educated decision on how to proceed.

Pulling the motor is pretty straight forward but for specific answers we'll need to see your set up in some more pics.

Looks like in this pic below to be minor pitting and it could've been caused by the paint used on the bottom if it's the wrong type of anti-fouling type paint.

fetch
 
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That's the conclusion that I reached. Motor is a Mecury 25, 4 stroke, EFI. Motor is held to transom with 4 bolts through transom, plus 2 clamp style hold downs. The part where I need lots of assistance, removing steering, and throttle controls. It's not obvious to me how / where to begin.
Pictures in a day or two.
Thanks Watermann for your post.
 

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I posted 4 pictures. As I said above, it's obvious to me that (4) bolts through transom and (2) clamps should be removed.
Do I remove the steering , throttle, etc at the motor? Or, do I leave all controls attached to motor, and remove control lever and all cables with the motor?
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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You have to remove the mounting bolts, loosen clamps, loosen steering cable at tilt tube as well as the steering arm, disconnect the wire rigging, disconnect the cables for throttle and shift. Then you lift the motor off and at that time the steering ram can be pulled from the tilt tube it's inside while lifting the motor off..

fetch
 
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Thanks for the post. However, you used a few descriptions that I do not know anything about.
Tilt tube
Steering arm
Steering ram
I am familiar with the other terms regarding the throttle, shift cables, wire rigging.
Book, YouTube video, etc that you would recommend?
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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The steering cable has a large nut that threads onto the tilt tube of the motor with the ram out the opposite end. The steering ram attaches to the steering arm and the other end attaches to the motor. Some call the steering arm the drag link. In the random pic below you can see what I described.

steering-arm.jpg
 
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Remove large nut
Disconnect steering ram from steering arm
Then slide steering ram out of tilt tube
Got it, steering is understood.
I'll look tomorrow under cowl at how the wire rigging, throttle cables, and shift cable connect.
I looked at it last week, access was not obvious, but I'm determined.
I'm pretty confident in ability to remove motor, just may take a few more questions and video watching.
Turning boat over not so sure, may be less weight than I think after motor, batteries, etc are removed.
Again, thanks.
 

Watermann

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I can't tell in the pic of your setup but if your steering cable goes into a hole in the gunnel on it's way to the helm then it may not be able to bend or have enough room to move forward to free itself from the tilt tube. In that case you'll have to remove the steering cable from the tilt tube as you lift the motor off or you can remove the helm from it's mounting in the console.

fetch
 
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When I begin the process, I'm sure I will have many questions.
I'm trying to squeeze in a couple more fishing trips before I remove motor, and turn over.
Thanks for heads up on steering cable.
 
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