Deck for 1975 16 SS

jdupree

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 11, 2006
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Decided to finally tackle the deck. I did the transom about a year ago. Anyone know how many sheets of plywood for just the deck? I was visually thinking 3? Also, I have posted a picture of the factory foam that was left that I could salvage. What should I use to replace this? I just was looking for something cheap and easy to install. I still need to clean up whats left of the deck.





 

ezmobee

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Mar 26, 2007
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4 sheets for my 18' SS. Probably annoyingly just over 3 sheets for your 16'. I used 3/4" for mine because I like the solidness of it. 5/8" would be good if you can find it. 1/2" is too springy for me. Replace the foam with the blue/pink/green sheet foam. Extruded polystyrene (NOT expanded polystyrene) it will not absorb water.
 

BWR1953

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Jan 23, 2009
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For my 16' Kingfisher, I measured and calculated that 3 sheets of plywood "should" be enough. Bought the wood and will be installing the new deck soon.

Here's how I did the flotation foam in mine a couple years ago.
foam blocks1.jpg
 

jdupree

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Thanks for the input guys. Are most going with 3/4" exterior plywood and coating with epoxy? I have some US Composites 2 part epoxy. I guess just coat all the wood and edges with that?
 

BWR1953

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I'm using 1/2" sanded BCX plywood and will be using the Old Timers Formula method. I just did my transom with it and it worked great!
 

GA_Boater

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I used 3 sheets of 5/8" in my Nassau. Since the deck is in 4 ft. sections from the knee brace forward, its easy to measure. The pointed bow section was made from cutoff ends of the forward most section. With the taper, I had more than enough to squeeze out the final section.

I tossed the styrofoam flotation foam. It smelled and my bilge was filled with the little broken off bits. Replaced it with closed cell like EZ and BWR.
 

jdupree

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Aug 11, 2006
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I used 3 sheets of 5/8" in my Nassau. Since the deck is in 4 ft. sections from the knee brace forward, its easy to measure. The pointed bow section was made from cutoff ends of the forward most section. With the taper, I had more than enough to squeeze out the final section.

I tossed the styrofoam flotation foam. It smelled and my bilge was filled with the little broken off bits. Replaced it with closed cell like EZ and BWR.


Thanks. What did you seal or coat the deck with prior to installation? I have 2 part epoxy but that will be very time consuming to use that. I see some guys are using Spar??
 

Watermann

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I use 1/2" decking in my boats, as long as it's good quality 5 layer ply either marine or even fir ACX so you have at least have a good A side for adhering your deck covering to. If you put the rigid foam board flotation in correctly it will support the deck well. Also you should add some cross pieces of angle AL at the deck seams to give proper support.

After clean up be sure to leak test and address any leaks or structural issues. You should also replace the blind rivets that secure the deck supports to the tops of the ribs as I'm sure they've become floppy with that rotten old deck.
 

Old Irving

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I used 5/8 marine grade for my deck. I like two part epoxy and mixed just a little thin so it would absorb better. I also think it's adds just a bit of extra support. Look at my site for what type of blind rivits I used. As previously mentioned, do a leak test.

Good luck
 

GA_Boater

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Thanks. What did you seal or coat the deck with prior to installation? I have 2 part epoxy but that will be very time consuming to use that. I see some guys are using Spar??

I'm a Spar guy. 3 coats on each side, hitting the edges on every flip, so 6 coats on the edges. I once had the opportunity (????) to lift part of the deck and the underside looked like it was sparred yesterday and it was after about 3 years. I'm happy with spar. But as always - YMMV.
 

jdupree

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Thanks for all the input guys! Going on vacation next week, so won't really hit the deck until I get back. I might go ahead and pick up the plywood and get it cut. Good news is I will be able to use all the old wood as a template for the new deck. It was just rotten in sections.

Most likely going with Kiwigrip on the deck. Used it on my last boat and really liked it. It is thick and will also add an extra layer of protection to the wood.
 

Watermann

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I'm a spar guys too, but not all spar is created equal, I've had best results with the oil based Helmsman Spar urethane clear gloss.

shopping
 

GA_Boater

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^^^^ My brand of choice. I don't know if having Helmsman as the name makes a better marine spar or not, but I like the ease of using it and the durability
 

jdupree

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I have had so much going on this summer was unable to get to the deck. I am in a position that now I can start working on it. What kind of foam do I need below deck? Is it something I can get at Lowes? Also, the rivets on the 2 support angle AL for the deck are loose/missing. Can I use screws to secure back down or does it need to be rivets?
 

Watermann

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Use the rigid foam board blue or pink, I normally use the 2" thick 4x8' sheets.

Yes you should replace the loose blind rivets with blind rivets, screws will not hold for long only having a couple teeth in aluminum they'll pull loose.
 

nrf414

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Feb 16, 2008
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Watermann how much spar did your deck consume? I'm almost there so this post is helpful to me any others likely.
Also then how much total spar did your boat consume. I'm doing side panels and consoles wood also.
 

jdupree

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Aug 11, 2006
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Use the rigid foam board blue or pink, I normally use the 2" thick 4x8' sheets.

Yes you should replace the loose blind rivets with blind rivets, screws will not hold for long only having a couple teeth in aluminum they'll pull loose.


Thanks Watermann. What size rivets will I need and a suggestion on where to get them? Thanks.
 

jbcurt00

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Nrf, ask about your project in your topic... If you notify Watermann there, he'll get the notice same as he does asking here
 

jbcurt00

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Rivetsonline

3/16th aluminum mandrel closed end blinds in a few lengths depending on thickness of material(s) you're going thru. Wide flange for going thru the deck.

Plus some brazierhead solids.
 

jdupree

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Aug 11, 2006
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Rivetsonline

3/16th aluminum mandrel closed end blinds in a few lengths depending on thickness of material(s) you're going thru. Wide flange for going thru the deck.

Plus some brazierhead solids.


Thank you sir!
 
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