Restoration/Repurpose 1982 160SS

[Candutch]

It's not required but it makes it way easier.

 

[classiccat]

^ agree. Also makes getting in/out of the boat easier. :thumb:

 

[pckeen]

Is pulling the splash well required for a transom rebuild? I see so many that have, but thought I read that it isn't required. Was thinking of getting into the garage tomorrow, to start in on a leak test, then on to transom removal.

Not required. You have to remove the transom cap and all the screws that hold the splashwell to the transom.

 

[VT Dukhntr]

Not required. You have to remove the transom cap and all the screws that hold the splashwell to the transom.

I figured that much. Just wasn't big on drilling out even more rivets. Hopefully the 728 screws all come out smoothly.

 

[MNhunter1]

Not many rivets involved in removing the splashwell. My personal opinion is that the splashwell removal is less labor intensive than attempting to effectively replace the transom with it still in place. Proper sealing of the thru bolts, splashwell drain tubes, and investigating/addressing any potential underlying issues like transom skin corrosion or knee brace repair is done much more effectively and efficiently with the splashwell removed.

 

[VT Dukhntr]

Not many rivets involved in removing the splashwell. My personal opinion is that the splashwell removal is less labor intensive than attempting to effectively replace the transom with it still in place. Proper sealing of the thru bolts, splashwell drain tubes, and investigating/addressing any potential underlying issues like transom skin corrosion or knee brace repair is done much more effectively and efficiently with the splashwell removed.

A solid arguement to pull it out, thanks for the reply.

 

[pckeen]

Oh yes, and don't forget to remove the drain tubes (grind down the lip and tap it out with a hammer and screwdriver).

 

[VT Dukhntr]

I found that the Z channel and a portion of the transom brace had busted rivets. No cracks in the aluminum, just busted rivets. Wondering if I should rivet this back together or instead fix with Stainless machine screws with nuts? Haven't done a lot of solid rivets in my life, so I don't want to mess them up

 

[Toby VT]

VT Dukhntr can you please look at your messages? I want to acquire the windshield! Thanks!

 

[Watermann]

The entire transom is full of SS nuts and bolts (machine screws too) so several more is no big deal, just be sure to use nyloc nuts and a washer on the inside not on the outside. When you tighten thru the hull bolts use plenty of 5200, working it around coating the hole before inserting the screw, then a small bead on the outside enough to squeeze out. The inside will have plenty of 5200 come out when doing the mentioned slathering. Then have someone hold the machine screw head solid while on the inside you tighten down the nyloc nut, this will keep the screw head from spinning out the 5200 and make a much more positive seal. Wipe excess 5200 off the outside screw head and done.

I know everything has to be so danged anal around here doesn't it? :lol:

 

[VT Dukhntr]

There is what appears to be gasket material on the screw flange of the splash well. My thought is scrape all that off, and apply a bead of 5200, when I reinstall the splash. Anyone else do it like that, or is there a source for the gasket material?

 

[MNhunter1]

There is what appears to be gasket material on the screw flange of the splash well. My thought is scrape all that off, and apply a bead of 5200, when I reinstall the splash. Anyone else do it like that, or is there a source for the gasket material?

I have seen glazing tape (1/8"?) that is often used on glass windows recommended, but have never used it myself. I believe most just stick with the 5200.

I coated each screw before driving it home and then ran a bead along the seam, let cure, and topped it with a coat of paint.

 

[Candutch]

A bead 5200 between the SW screw strip and transom and dipped each screw in 5200 then ran a bead of 5200 in the splashwell along the transom. No water getting in there for a long time I hope.

 

[VT Dukhntr]

Been a while, so I guess I should pay the mob. From another post here, I skinned the exposed part of the transom with aluminum. Nothing structural, just wanted to avoid sun exposure



Also modified the bow, by removing the old bench, and will replace with short bench I. The front. Liking all the open space I will have





Been working on all the small stuff like new rivets, filling in screw holes, fixing corrosion spots, etc
Need some help with replacing a few more rivets, and will be ready to flip for paint prep. Moving along nicely so far.

 

[Watermann]

Hey those smalls sure add up quick and make the end that much closer. :encouragement:

 

[Dabbler_E]

Thanks for the progress pix VT! More space is always good.

 

[Candutch]

Good call on skinning the exposed transom wood🖒

 

[VT Dukhntr]

Been a while since I made an update. Progress was a bit slow, but picked up speed. Got the hull painted, and floor is all attached. Was hoping to lay Nautolex today.
While making holes, I thought I was being careful. However, got in a little too much of a hurry and punched one through the hull. It's a small hole, but right through new paint. Little MT will fix it, not to worried. Just a moment of being disgruntled!! A lot of work done, then bang...blemish!!!
Wondering where everyone is hosting pictures to share, now that Photobucket has taken all our pictures hostage?

 

[coostv]

I have been using Tinypic for as long as I can remember, but that one has become flaky lately. PB owns it and whether it is intentional or not, it seems they are trying to kill it... Everytime I try to upload new photos I get an error saying "404 the photo does not exist". So, I am now trying Imgur.

 

[Watermann]

I've been using MS OneDrive, every MS PC and device on the planet has their little cloud logo on it. I replaced every photo in all my threads linked to OD. No issues at all, take a look.