1977 16ft SC Holiday re-do

[No-AH]

Man there's the smell of something burning in the hangar and it's not from wood burning for heating.....it's me engineering the AL design/structure for the rear conversion casting deck/conversion flip bench seat! My plan is too have this layout be the end product....not as easy peasy as it looks y'all....
From this...

to this, well you get the idea....

 

[MNhunter1]

Man there's the smell of something burning in the hangar and it's not from wood burning for heating.....it's me engineering the AL design/structure for the rear conversion casting deck/conversion flip bench seat! My plan is too have this layout be the end product....not as easy peasy as it looks y'all....
From this...

to this, well you get the idea....

I came across this a few years ago...might give you some ideas. http://muskie.outdoorsfirst.com/board/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=67689

 

[Watermann]

Yeah I'm digging that layout! :thumb:

 

[ezmobee]

cool design

 

[coostv]

What the other guys said! :encouragement:

 

[No-AH]

Thanks fellas.

MNhunter1 thanks for that, I had stumbled across that post in a search while doing the bowectomy. Turned out nice. My stern seating is this instead of separate seats...
http://www.iboats.com/Blast-Off-Tour...view_id.732229

Thinking of how/where to add supports ahead of time for a removable pedestal seat base, livewell/baitwell, batteries, ski pylon..... All along trying to keep access below the deck. I've surmised that i'll keep the decks' height the same as the front rise of the bow deck and seat heights so that everything stays fluid @ 9". I've purchased 1" x 3/16" AL sq tubing and 1 1/4" x 3/16" AL U channel for all horizontal runs rather than angle The tubing will be my uprights, fitting snug within the spans of the channel giving greater riveting surface by attaching from both sides where they join, imo. I also have 1 1/2" x 3/16" AL angle on hand.
I have the layout on paper, now just have to go make some noise in the hangar....come on spring!!!
Just a tidbit to pass on while I was researching structural alloy, AL 6061 has rounded corners inside and out and not sharp edges. Huhhh learn something new everyday, eh?

 

[No-AH]

Because I've totally removed the original sw to incorporate a new smaller config, to better accommodate my rear casting deck/seating area I felt the need to re-enforce the transom by adding an inner and outer skin, 3/16" AL plating back buttered with 5200 then bolted with 1/4" x 20 x 21/2"SS bolts, lock washers with nylocs.
When I fabbed the inner skin, I bent 90degree 1" tabs the full length of the AL on either sides so that it would tie into the to existing wedge shaped hull stiffeners under the gunnels.





knee brace, 5200 + bolted in place

 

[No-AH]

Close up of inner tabs lined up to be bolted to side stiffeners [starboard]



port side



plate added to bottom to tie into knee brace

 

[No-AH]

Has anyone worked with star board? In image 1 above on either side of the drop to the hull of the AL plate I would like to fab and 5200 2 pieces of star board in the 2 voids to accommodate my transponder, speedo pitot... without having to drill through the new transom.
I really liked what Watermann did, fabbing his with AL on his SS but I would really like to hide and cover that area and what shawdyness the PO did.

 

[Watermann]

Whoa someones been playing in the 5200 again! :lol: Looks like some solid work to me and is there such a thing as clamp envy? :watermelon:

I know how you feel about drilling holes in a transom that's clean. I really don't know if I would trust just a bond with no mechanical fasteners and it's tough to clamp something on the outside of the transom at the bottom. You also have to consider an unobstructed location for the pitot and tube entry into the boat.

 

[No-AH]

Thanks for dropping by Watermann. I always appreciate yr views.

OOH man that stuff got everywhere....especially where I didn't need/want it LOL.
NEVER enough clamps in the shop, I tell the admiral:lol:
You're bang on with yr comment of gluing anything without fasteners....especially there. The PO had all sorts of shoddy things added on there and I'm now sorry I didn't bring the plate all the way down to the bottom seam:facepalm: Anywhooooo

 

[Watermann]

You can do what I did with my Chief and add cover plates over the chewed up areas, they don't look so bad. I filled the holes with JB water weld, sanded smooth. The plates I over sized a bit, back buttered with 5200 and solid riveted them on.

 

[No-AH]

Nice! Is that plate AL or nylon? That would work as the bad, hard to seal spots are just here and there. I like the raised brkt you fabbed on yr SS for the pitot and trnsdcr. :thumb:

 

[Watermann]

The cover plates are .080 AL, I have a huge supply of it

I also made some up for the trim tabs too as it had some on before that left nasty pitting and of course holes.

 

[ezmobee]

I built my dash panels out of starboard and made some panels with it for my newer boat. Very easy to work with. Only issues is no adhesive sticks to it and I have found that it does stain.

 

[No-AH]

I built my dash panels out of starboard and made some panels with it for my newer boat. Very easy to work with. Only issues is no adhesive sticks to it and I have found that it does stain.

Good to know ez, that would have been a huge let down had I gone down that road without posting first..... thanks for sharing

 

[No-AH]

Man the hangar is almost unbearable to work in. The fumes from heating it and the 5200 curing it has me wearing a respirator when in there. I would ventilate but the temp outside is just hovering around 0c or 32f for my American friends :]] Be a week tomorrow and it still isn't fully cured?

 

[budski]

Nice job on your transum, No-ah that ain't going anywhere

 

[No-AH]

Nice job on your transum, No-ah that ain't going anywhere

Thanks for the encouraging words budski. I've been following yr Lund redo of late and nice work as usual :thumb:...keep up the great work ethics mate!

 

[budski]

Thanks No-ah, we try to redo every boat as if it were our own.