1977 16ft SC Holiday re-do

[No-AH]

Mine are fixed and I haven't found any need for anything different.

Gotchya....Which length pedestals did you go with?
I was just thinking the helm and passenger seating might relish a lift when and if I install a raised eyebrow dashboards?

 

[ezmobee]

Gotchya....Which length pedestals did you go with?

I forget. They are short. Something like 8-10"? Don't have a great picture either. http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2604.jpg I can check for you if you want. I am happy with the height in regards to the gunnel height.

 

[No-AH]

I forget. They are short. Something like 8-10"? Don't have a great picture either. http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2604.jpg I can check for you if you want. I am happy with the height in regards to the gunnel height.

That would be great. My neighbor has loaned me his 2 folding fishing seats on fixed height pedestals which are bolted to 2'x2' x3/4" ply bases to accommodate different positions in his boat while fishing. One is 9" high and the other is 17". I have them in the Holi to help gauge my seating config. My dilemma is that both heights work for me.

 

[ezmobee]

Wouldn't the 17" put your head significantly above the windshield?

 

[No-AH]

Indeed. I would then lower it whilst driving. I like the rise over the gunnels when trolling from the helm.

 

[MNhunter1]

The 17" seems a bit high for anything other than fishing. I went with 5.5" pedestals for my 15' Nova and plan on 9" pedestals for my 16'SS.

 

[No-AH]

The 17" seems a bit high for anything other than fishing. I went with 5.5" pedestals for my 15' Nova and plan on 9" pedestals for my 16'SS.

Thanks for popping in MN.
I have fished with adj pedestals in other rigs before and kinda enjoyed the ability to raise the seat height on occasions. I've really been hung up with decision making regarding my redo, you know "now why didn't I do that" conumdrum......Maybe the deciding factor will be the extra cost of the adjustables....... :frusty:

 

[No-AH]

If you've been pondering the idea of owning your very own 36" metal bending brake for projects to your tinny.....well ponder no more Mates! A reputable blue automotive place has them on sale, 90.00 Cad $ off this week. Mine is on route....YES!!!!

 

[jbcurt00]

Heres a nice tweak to improve your brake

http://www.instructables.com/id/Impo...bending-brake/

Whats not to love at a site where you can get step by step instructions for making both

Chocolate Fudge made w Velvetta cheese (yep, look it up, and they're great! BTW )

and​

DIY stick welder made from old microwave oven transformers

Plus an endless list of interesting projects

:becky:

 

[No-AH]

Me likeee jb! I may just tweak it when I get it....I'm a poet and I don't know it, lol.....Thanks Mate:tea:

 

[Watermann]

Same theory as I do with my home made brake, clamp down on closely on either side of the work to be bent. Just don't try to bend a very large piece of AL with those cheap brakes, you'll ruin them.

 

[No-AH]

Hey Mates. Back at the Holi project finally, I will start off with a question for ya's. After beefing up the knee brace back in Nov., I had the intention of re-installing/lining it up to re-use the original holes where it laid in the hull. They aren't perfectly inline with each other [probably a Friday afternoon assembly at the factory lol] so I am contemplating drilling new ones, being more precisely aligned to the beefed up ear flanges of the knee brace. So my question is, do I, should I, add a formed 1/4" AL plate inside the hull, sandwiched between the two or maybe add it on the outside of the hull, buried in 5200 and re-drilled or not?

 

[Watermann]

I would add a .100 plate to the outside back buttered w/5200. 1/4 or is AL speak .250 is tough to form and can snag on something easier. Even the .100 plate should have the leading edge smoothed out so it has a better transition for water flow and doesn't get caught on something.

 

[bunnymoney]

I would use the original holes that line up then re-drill through the remaining original holes into your new flange. If necessary, add a proper washer on the new flange if the holes over lap. As you know, when the rivet is driven it expands in the hole. If the hole is too big or irregular a washer of sorts will be necessary.

 

[No-AH]

Thank you for your thoughts Mates. Have an update to share. Riveted the ply flooring down leaving the center compartments opened for future rod locker and 12 gal belly fuel cell. I'm debating the placement for these. I'm leaning towards having the fuel tank amid-ship fore [better weight distribution imo] and rod locker aft. Also laying out the rear casting deck structure. My plan is to have a hinged type conversion bench seat [which is on a brown truck on route now]. When flipped, it'll have a removable pedestal seat/tow pylon. Sooo until I have the seat in hand, nothing will be permanently fastened. I have also planned below the bench, once flipped, access to a strbrd side livewell and port side dual battery compartment.

 

[Watermann]

Be aware the rigging hole for the battery cables/control cables normally are on the starboard side and the wiring of the batteries on both being on the port side will have to cross over to go up the starboard side gunnel to the console. With the motors battery cables they may not reach and it's a bad idea to go longer due to amp loss..

 

[No-AH]

Thanks for the heads up Mate. The planning stages for these additions sure do make things interesting. Nice to have experienced eyes have a visual and tag along and comment with these tasks beforehand.

 

[Watermann]

Hey no problem, I freely give my been there done that advice. In the SC forum you get a lot of that unlike the general resto forum you have lots of guys who slept in a Holiday Inn last night :lol:

I put my starting battery on the starboard side and deep cycle to run everything else on the port side to balance things out. My SS is quite a bit bigger but balance does matter. The motor battery starts and powers the tilt and trim only. Both are group 24s.

 

[No-AH]

Thanks WM. I'll be into battery sequences in the near future. Sooooo I have a question regarding placement of fuel tank fittings. In the image, my plan was to have all fittings at the most rear placement possible on the stern end of the tank, on top, but the shop in which I am dealing with is insisting I could place them like so. I'm no expert by any means but from all what I've read here and there this falls into the DO NOT category. His thoughts for this is that I could go up flush to the underside of my ply flooring.......all input is highly welcomed. Thanks

 

[Watermann]

No the fuel tank cannot be used as a deck support period. How the heck would a fuel sender be accurate in that config? No you should go with your layout, not his.