86 18' Starcraft SFM

[MD28]

Thanks guys! Hopefully it lasts!

 

[BWR1953]

Looking great! :encouragement:

 

[Candutch]

Fantastic looking paint job MD!

 

[oldhaven]

Green and Cream. great choice. Almost Land Rover bronze green and limestone.

 

[mbroughton02]

Very nice. Can't wait to see what you do with this one.

 

[Watermann]

I'm really liking that paint, nice work for sure! :encouragement:

 

[budski]

Paint job looks great

 

[MD28]

What type and size rivet should I use to reattach the stringers. Starcraft originally put in two rivets per rib, I plan on doing the same. I have 3/16x 1/2 rivets with steel shanks. I don't know about the steel shanks because of corrosion issues. When I took the stringers out there was only one river holding it in, I really don't want that to happen again! Is there a beefyer way to fasten these?

 

[Watermann]

Don't use steel mandrel blind rivets, they'll rust out and come loose, use all AL. 1/2 grip is too much for that attachment, I would use 3/16" x 1/4 grip.

 

[MD28]

So it's back on the trailer. I did a leak test at a local lake and she stayed dry. I have the stringers back in and I put it back in the exact same spot it was before. Only problem is that it is showing high on the mid bow port side. But it is good on the other side. It is about 1/2" too high along two to three ribs. I think it is because the rollers underneath it. My question is do you think I can get 3/4 to flex that much, or should I trim the stringer down and reinforce with an angle or something.

 

[Watermann]

So is only the one rib low where you have the level sitting? I wouldn't go cutting those deck supports down or anything like that. On my SC boats the deck support were a bit higher making the ply a hardly noticeable arch I think (1/4") so water would not sit in the middle of the deck and would run to the sides. Of course factory 1/2" marine ply would bend just fine with you weighting it down while attaching with LF rivets. 3/4" probably not so much.

 

[Stovebolter46]

Probably more flex of the hull without floor in it. The 3/4 will possibly pull it up.

 

[MD28]

Anyone who uses spar have a preference of oil or water based? I'm leaning toward oil me thinks. Don't know if there is a benefit one way or the other.

 

[Candutch]

I used oil. I'm not sure if it is any better but it just seems like it would be. It held up really well for me exposed to the elemend.

 

[Watermann]

I use Minnwax oil based Helmsman Spar.

 

[MD28]

Little update. I have the foam and gas tank installed. Transom is cut and glued.
The tank is cradled between the stringers with strips of rubber I got from work for free. They where old floor flaps from the live floor of the truck I run. I went much beefier than original. The original was three half inch strips. I have five two inch strips. It is held down with blocks of wood bolted to the cross memembers for and aft. There is rubber front and back and under the blocks.



I used 2 inch foam board cut with my table saw. Fit fairly snug once I figured out a system.

Under all that is a transom being glued

 

[Watermann]

Very nice, forward progress is the key. Next thing is you'll have the decking in and be off like a shot.

 

[MD28]

I've been working 70+ hours a week so this is a slow process. This is about a half a days work here over Memorial Day weekend. Hopefully things slow down pretty soon so I can work on it at night and on Saturdays.

 

[BWR1953]

I'm totally digging that foam job! Excellent work! :thumb:

And I can absolutely relate to the cinder block transom clamps! :laugh:

 

[Candutch]

Looking good MD, fantastic job on the foam.