'69 offshore rebuild- BMerr

Tnstratofam

Commander
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
2,679
Another tip for protecting the freshly sealed transom so the knee brace(s) don't scar it up. Cut out some plastic milk jugs into strips that go between the new transom wood and the braces, it helps the wood slide right in and the plastic then pulls right out. You can also do the plastic strips trick when test fitting too to keep from gouging the wood.

That is a good tip. I will be using it for my Jupiter resto.

Good to see you're making progress BMerr509. Hope the transom install goes good.
 

BMerr509

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
167
Ran into a snag guys. actually a major snag. I've just recieved word that i'm deploying in 2018 for the entire boating season, 8 months total. My question for you guys is both personal and to do with the motor. The decision i have to make is do i buy a motor this spring, run it for the 2017 year (50 hours total probably) then store the motor until the 2019 year, or should i just wait until 2019 to get the motor? what would you do in my position? Is there any ill effects for the motor to sit for that long given that it will still be new? Recall i'd like to buy a new 70-115 4 stroke yami or merc.

My plans with the boat will move forward as planned regardless. With a new president, anything can happen including canceling the deployment or extending it. I'm blessed to be deploying and hopefully i'll take the place of someone who has a wife/husband and kids, as i don't have a wife or kids. Just puts me in a interesting position. I do not NEED to have a boat for this summer, but it is nice to have!!!
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,871
If you can splash this rig for 2017, SPLASH it. I cant think of a single person (here @ iboats or anywhere) that has ever said:
Dag nab it, I sure do wish I hadnt spent so much time on the water this season....

Besides, you're deployment is quite a ways off, and your return is even further out......

I doubt you'll regret using the boat. Now would be a good time to buy left over 2016 outboards, in much of the US......
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Lots of boats and motors miss a season due to life events. Won't hurt it at all if stored properly.
 

BMerr509

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
167
Great, thanks guys! Last night i made the final touches for the epoxy on the transom. Interesting phenomenon. I put three layers on each side over the last few weeks and there are some spots where the epoxy seeped into the wood so much that it left a dry spot where the wood was exposed. I patched it up and will review the other side once it dries and paint it. Do i need primer to paint the transom/epoxy, or just the topside rustoleum paint?
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
I would use rusto pro unless it doesn't have the right color, they're the same paint formula. I've used primer on everything I paint, guess it's the way I do things. Just be sure to match types, oil based or water based.
 

BMerr509

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
167
Hey guys, some progress today. I sanded the transom edges (the epoxy dripped from the opposite side and created little epoxy droplets that hardened, as seen in my second picture). Then i primed and painted it. It's red because that's the only color i had. It mostly gets covered up so i'm not worried. I'll do a second coat tomorrow night i think.

IMG_0805.JPG IMG_0806.JPG IMG_0808.JPG
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
"Behind the red transom" :lol:

Looks like that'll last a good 30 or 40 years, nice :thumb:
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
4,210
looks great, did you use any fiberglass on the transom ? I couldn't tell
 

BMerr509

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
167
Thanks guys, the original transom lasted until last year so i hope 40+ years! I didn't use any fiberglass on the transom although the original did have FG. That's alright. Honestly it only costs probably $100 excluding labor to fabricate a transom, so if i screw this one up i can re-make another one. Once i get the other side done, i can drop it in. I'm hoping this weekend! Then i have to grind out the old rivets on the floor supports then i can lay in foam board/paint the interior of the boat. Thinking grey- black i feel would get too hot in the summer, white i think would blind me lol
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
4,210
hmm I didn't think you would have any strength in the epoxy by itself without the glass
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,871
Mick, on an aluminum boat, the epoxy is mostly waterproofing on the transom plywood, no glass required like it would be on a fiberglass boat, or when using polyester resin.
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
4,210
ahh I see thanks for that j I haven't used epoxy for anything but a clear coating on a desk lol
 

BMerr509

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
167
Looks like JB beat me to it. It was an option i looked into. The problem with epoxy is it deteriorates due to UV exposure. Since my transom will see virtually no sun, and with the paint over it anyways, there won't be a problem. And since i'll be using vinyl on my floor, epoxy will be enough there too.

Got the other side of the transom primed and will paint tonight. I forgot that i need to prime/paint the transom skins on the boat so i'll have to do that too. I have much to do still. Could have scored on a merc 2016 115 4s ELPT this past week on ebay. brand new in crate, $7000. Just didnt have the financial means right now unfortunately. But i hope i can find a deal just like that in the next six months.
 

BMerr509

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
167
Question on the flotation underneath the floor- since my boat has only the two stringers with literally no other floor support, i would need to rely a bit on the outside edges of the boat for floor support on the edges of the floor. I know you guys do not recommend the pour in foam, but the stuff found on US composites looks unique.

What do you think? I can get 35 pool noodles 2" in diameter for $49, so the pool noodle is the cheapest route.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
I'd love to recommend the pool noodles. I used them and it was certainly easy. Unfortunately someone (I think jasouside) since did a test and proved that the noodles don't really provide very good buoyancy compared to the sheet foam and I assume pourable. If I were to do another one, I'd probably do a sheet foam/pourable hybrid solution. And I'd definitely put some sheets behind my side panels.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
If you take your time and cut the rigid foam board right you can use it for deck support. Add cross members between the 2 deck supports too.
 

BMerr509

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
167
Thanks for stopping by guys, ironically enough WM i was just pricing aluminum angle for supports. not too expensive. I'm going to do a rod holder compartment up the center, then aluminum framing for the front casting deck. I'm trying to determine what i want to do with the splashwell. I like the idea of leaving the whole back wide open other than right in front of the motor. I know Rob (canadian Rob) did a fantastic design on his SC that i'd love to do.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
The side panels have a ton of wasted space begging to be used for rod holders.
 
Top