1970 Holiday 18ft Beginning rehab for fishing boat

[MyOutdoors]

I just picked up a 1970 Holiday 18fter that I plan on rehabbing for a good solid trout/salmon trolling "machine". I only paid a few hundred for her but it will obviously need some serious work. I'm pretty excited to get it started though...I transformed a little 12ft aluminum boat into a nice fishing rig when I was in my 20's. Considering this boat was built the year I was born, we've already created a bond!

The floor was already removed so that saved me some work. I had to remove the transom due to it being totally dry rotted. I'm in the process of removing the side panels, dash, windshield and all the old wiring and corroded hardware.

My 1st question is on the windshield...it looks like the bolts are permanently attached to the bottom of the W/S and thru bolted through the dash. The nuts weren't ss so they are rusted on. If I cut thos bolts will I ruin the windshield? Or are the bolts just a "T" style that run in a track at the bottom of the windshield?

I plans are to repaint the hull, redo the floor, console and dash, add a permanent gas tank, livewell, side locker storage, swivel chairs, downriggers, radio, etc. I don't want to break the bank but I also do want to do everything right the 1st time. Being a New England "Yankee", I'm into Good ole fashion DIY'ing...the right way.

Super excited I found this forum...it's obviously full of a "boat load" of info! I've spent quite a few late nights reading everyone's rehab stories. I hope I can live to the challenge and walk away with a great boat and a ton of knowledge. Thank you in advance. Pics, soon to follow!

 

[Grandad]

Welcome to Iboats and the Starmada. If you haven't been following much yet, you'll find we gotta have pictures, but my understanding is that you must have posted at least 3 times before the system will let you post pictures. The very first thing I'm sure the gang will suggest is that you do an assessment of the hull's integrity, particularly looking for cracks near the end of the ribs and corrosion of the transom skin. I know you plan this to be used as just a fishing boat, but it may not be wise to leave her without sidewalls that help support the ends of the ribs. Anyway, I look forward to seeing her when you can post pictures. Most people find using Photobucket a real benefit. - Grandad

 

[Candutch]

Welcome to the Starmada! Boat loads of info on here, looking forward to the pics.

 

[MyOutdoors]

Thank you for the warm welcome. I saw in another post about checking the structural integrity. I took everything out and inspected all the ribs at their ends. I didn't see any signs of cracking or stress. I plan on integrating some narrow type storage boxes into the factory sidewalls

 

[MyOutdoors]

Here's what's left of the transom board. I'm going to cut the factory drains out and replace them with new thru the hull drains. The transom skin definitely had some corrosion but nothing so bad that it rotted thru or I'm worried about. Do I just scrape it off and wash it down with some type of baking soda solution?

 

[MNhunter1]

Welcome! If the windshield bolts are anything like my Nova, they're t-bolts that run through a channel at the bottom of the windshield. I picked some up at Rockler, but they'll need a little work on the grinder to make a good fit.

http://www.rockler.com/t-slot-bolts-pack-of-five-1-4-20-thread

 

[MNhunter1]

Not sure on the size I actually ordered, but they have a few different options.

 

[classiccat]

Here's what's left of the transom board. I'm going to cut the factory drains out and replace them with new thru the hull drains. The transom skin definitely had some corrosion but nothing so bad that it rotted thru or I'm worried about. Do I just scrape it off and wash it down with some type of baking soda solution?

Welcome MyOutdoors! :welcome:

That's a sweet rig!

the splashwell has the tell-tail cracks as a result of that mulch transom.

baking soda won't touch that corrosion...if only we had such a magic bullet.

Stainless Steel wire brush on a grinder or drill works well...even better if you can find a Nyalox-orange cupped brush...it's mean on corrosion yet gentle on the aluminum. Deep pitting may need to be picked out or hit with a dremel.

Once you've finished removing as much corrosion through mechanical means, you should consider washing it with acid & following up with a chromate conversion to passivate the aluminum surface. West Systems makes a nice 2-part aluminum etch kit.

Lastly, fill-in the pitting with marine tex or JB weld.

 

[MyOutdoors]

I'll clean it up with a wire wheel and fill the Swiss cheese holes with JB. Does the JB hold up well? I can't believe how many holes the PO put in this thing.

 

[Watermann]

Welcome aboard MyOutdoors! ...

Nice Holly you found there. :thumb:

Get that splashwell out of there so it's easier to remove the corrosion from the inside of the transom skin.

 

[MyOutdoors]

I was thinking the same thing waterman about the splash well. I finally got everything out between yesterday and today. I started prepping all the holes for JB weld...boy I'm going to use a lot!


I flooded it yesterday and only found a small drip in the bottom front keel and in the rear by the bilge area where there was a pin hole from corrosion


Bring on the JB


Transom has a couple of coats of WP and glued together with PL. I had to add screws to keep it tight. I'll remove those, fill them with plastic wood and keep apply the WP seal until it won't accept any more. Then I'll paint it. Should last a while

 

[Watermann]

Ohh what kind of PL did you use? The last guy in the forum that used PL had to scrape it off and start over with TB III. Personally I like using this stuff.

 

[jbcurt00]

Yep ^^^

And whats the WP you're putting on the transom?

 

[MyOutdoors]

I used construction adhesive PL in the contractor caulking tubes...stuff is very strong and durable. The waterproofer is a mix of linseed oil, mineral spirits and polyurethane

 

[jbcurt00]

Good choice on the sealer, hope the PL holds and hlods well.

I dont remember what happened when it failed on the other guys build.

 

[Candutch]

I used the PL 8x construction adhesive as well. I read a number of other threads where it was used and figured it should be fine. It's a polyurethane as well and water resistant.

 

[MyOutdoors]

The PL 8x is doing fine...i let it cure for a few days. I took out the splash well yesterday and started filling the holes in the transom skin with JB weld but I'm getting a lot of drip and sag on the vertical surface. I'm switching over to PC 11 and PC marine to see how that works.

 

[Watermann]

I don't use the regular JB/MT for filling holes, I use JB water weld in the 2 part stick.

 

[MyOutdoors]

I should have used that as well watermann.

I'm ordering the transom drain tubes. Do I order the 1-7/8" for the standard 1-1/2" transom plus outer aluminum skin?

http://www.iboats.com/Drain-Tube/dm/cart_id.498116142--session_id.758700881--view_id.39188

 

[MyOutdoors]

I'm also looking for layout ideas for a livewell and enclosed storage on the sides. I want to balance the livewell and enclosed fuel tank, but I also don't want all the weight towards the rear if I can avoid it.

I'm only going to be running a 20hp evinrude due to the size limit on quabbin lake and others here in Mass. Eventually I'll run a bigger motor with a "kicker" when more $$ is available. Any ideas and pics are welcomed.