The well traveled 1979 Starcraft 18' V5 SS

Ratherbboatin

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jan 2, 2015
Messages
217
Getting very quick on the re-builds. when you finish before me you can come up here and I will put you to work....ha ha ha
What are you going to do with 2 boats now?
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,747
Well I will have 3 boats and the admiral tells me I'll need to sell off one of them. I think the good little SN will find a new home once the SS is finished up. I need my cruiser and of course a fishing boat. ;)
 

Ratherbboatin

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
217
The smaller 16' is so nice and light easy to take out by yourself. Going to be hard letting it go for what someone is willing to pay. Most pay so much for a newer boat, but are not willing to cough up the cash for a really nice re-build. They would rather buy the junky boats and try to use them. I have seen some real beauties at the boat launch. Surprised they don't sink. Junk add a second bilge pump its fine..ha ha ha
 

Ratherbboatin

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jan 2, 2015
Messages
217
I normally just nod my head and do what I want when the wife says something to me. Or I tell her to go sell off her stuff.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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Starting to slowly look like a boat again here.

I have a question for you SS savants, what's the best way to go about the console install. I have them roughed in with clecos right now, the deck is still 1/2" ply. I was planning on solid riviting them down to the gunnels first as this V5 was originally solids and then anchor down the supports to the deck.

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GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
She is looking good, WM.

No SS experience, but I would use some stainless screws or short lags for the console to deck attachment. I don't know if there much of a choice.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Thanks GA, I think that screws would work and thought about doing the screws although there are AL supports right under where the console legs go so I should be able to use some long LF rivets to anchor them down. I would have to mark the holes, move the consoles, drill, seal and then put the consoles back to go the rivet route of anchoring them. I think 3 or 4 rivets per side would be pretty stout. BUT then if the windshield doesn't line up correctly I can't move the supports any because of the rivets. That's why I'm being cautious about putting them in, I don't want an issue down the road when I go to put the glass in.

I just wonder about windshield alignment but putting solids back in the gunnels and console original holes I wouldn't think there'd be an issue. I just don't know about the console support legs, they're sort of wonky looking when I get the foot flat on the deck, for some reason they look off to my eye but I think it's because they're angled. Should the console supports be squared up to the deck? Later will the windshield align with the holes in the consoles if I secure it all down tight?
 

GA_Boater

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Can you put the W/S on and use it for an alignment guide? Are the console legs over the stringers? Rivets would work then. I was thinking only air under the deck in that area.
 

BWR1953

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
5,802
What about using just a pair of short screws to do the temporary alignment, then when everything is perfect, drill a couple rivet holes to maintain alignment and then pull the console leg aside and seal the screw holes?

Then you can put the console leg back in place (covering the sealed screw holes) and use the rivets for your permanent mount.
 

Watermann

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Can you put the W/S on and use it for an alignment guide? Are the console legs over the stringers? Rivets would work then. I was thinking only air under the deck in that area.

I may have to put the WS in and make sure of where to position the console supports. You can see what the fore end looks like under the deck in the leak test pic below, I believe the supports will line up but if no AL is hit then I will go with screws.

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What about using just a pair of short screws to do the temporary alignment, then when everything is perfect, drill a couple rivet holes to maintain alignment and then pull the console leg aside and seal the screw holes?

Then you can put the console leg back in place (covering the sealed screw holes) and use the rivets for your permanent mount.

With the WS in to make sure of placement this could indeed work well.

Thanks for the replies fellas. :)
 
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GA_Boater

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May 24, 2011
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I wonder if a stud finder works on AL? I'm grasping now. LOL
 

budski

Lieutenant Commander
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Sep 12, 2012
Messages
1,845
We fastened them down in the original holes on the gunnels, like you did then fastened the legs down with 1 screw in each as close to where they were as possible, that made them sturdy enough to place the windshield on and align it, hardest part is getting the center window to fit properly, then if we had to realign the legs we only had to remove the one screw in each leg and reposition them. also we found that there was always some leeway in adjusting the windshield, we didn't always use the same screw holes to fasten the windshield down. I hope this makes sense to you not that great at explaining things. hope this helps.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
I had to raise my consoles using a wider piece of angle aluminum from Lowes to compensate for the thicker deck. Definitely make sure you have you windshield all lined up before you make your console panels and what not. That was a mistake I made.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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Thanks guys, sounds like I have the info I needs for a good plan now. :happy:
 
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