1983 Starcraft Mariner 220v rebuild

[bob johnson]

I think you should absolutely tap every rivet... I did two waves of rivets because I only replace the loose and missing rivets at first , then I flipped the boat and sure enough a dozen more popped...., so I went around and any one a little corroded I popped out, and I tapped all the solid looking rivets , and I bet another half dozen popped off!!! I would have hated it if I had put $1000 worth of paint on that hull, then started dealing with popped rivets after I loaded the boat onto the trailer a bunch of times!!

bob

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Fill with water to cover the rivets you want to check on a flat dry surface and look see where the water drips and mark them with a marker. the more water in the boat, the more water pressure to push on the leaky ones.

I also had a few spots that where pin hole pitted holes that I wouldnt have suspected to leak that did. So I like the fill with water method as long as your trailer can handle the weight of this method.

 

[ford290]

Thanks guys. Unfortunately, my window for water testing is coming to a rapid end. We have had an exceptionally mild December here but temps look to be heading south so it looks like old man winter will be putting things on hold for awhile. I may be able to shoehorn the boat into the garage but there wont be much room to work around her.
Couple of questions, I didn't have any original flooring, can you guys tell me what the factory flooring thickness was? Was it treated in any way? I have read many threads about flooring , thickness and waterproofing but was curious what it was originally. Thanks Mike

 

[Watermann]

Originally in the older Starcrafts the decking was 1/2" marine grade ply with no sealant.

 

[Decker83]

Happy New Year to you and your family

 

[Grandad]

Originally in the older Starcrafts the decking was 1/2" marine grade ply with no sealant.

And here's a sample of mine after 41 years. In most places, even the original saw edge marks were still present. I put it right back in after the refit, topside covered in new Nautolex. The only place I sealed (with leftover Gluvit) was the underside of the pieces on either side of the I/O where I thought bilge water might wet it. I was able to re-use most of the original rivet holes. - Grandad

 

[ford290]

And here's a sample of mine after 41 years. In most places, even the original saw edge marks were still present. I put it right back in after the refit, topside covered in new Nautolex. The only place I sealed (with leftover Gluvit) was the underside of the pieces on either side of the I/O where I thought bilge water might wet it. I was able to re-use most of the original rivet holes. - Grandad

Hey Grandad, Thanks for the heads up on Aircraft Spruce. I wish my flooring was like yours. I should have weighed this boat before I stripped it out. The soaked 3/4" plywood was HEAVY!. Water logged foam as well. I thought to myself how could your flooring be so good so I checked out your thread. Very nice work, some very original ideas. You must be very happy how it turned out. Did your boat have a vinyl floor originally.? Contact cement on your new floor must have been an adventure. I had thought of doing individual floor panels, gluing the vinyl on each separately thinking it would be easier to install but I think the seamless approach may be better long term. Still trying to come up with a game plan.

 

[Grandad]

Did your boat have a vinyl floor originally.? Contact cement on your new floor must have been an adventure. I had thought of doing individual floor panels, gluing the vinyl on each separately thinking it would be easier to install but I think the seamless approach may be better long term. Still trying to come up with a game plan.

My original seemed very much like the current Nautolex product. I'm glad I used it. It looks good, has just enough texture for grip and doesn't hold moisture like carpet might. I can't speak to fish blood stains cuz I'm not a fisherman, but it sure does wash down easily. "Upholstering" separate panels with Nautolex certainly has the advantage of the ability to remove a single panel without damaging the covering, but you'll need to contend with the appearance and uniform placement of the hold-down hardware. Seamless does limit the opportunity for water to creep into crevices and keep edges saturated from wet feet. Each to his own. I figure my boat was used a lot and if it didn't need refit for 41 years, she'll be due again in 2056. I'll be celebrating my 109th birthday that year, if all goes to plan. - Grandad

 

[gbayforever]

Very similar to my project, I just finished mine last spring. I replaced all the floor with marine grade plywood then checkerplate aluminum, here's a link to the post for pics http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...ft-boats/10105370-1986-21-centre-console-redo