1983 Starcraft Mariner 220v rebuild

[ford290]

Hello, Have been a longtime lurker, finally made a purchase! Thanks to many of the fine rebuilds I have read here on this forum, I felt inspired to try one myself. A friend of mine has this exact same boat, so I was familiar with what this boat had to offer and when the opportunity arose I had to get this one. The boat has been neglected for many years. It appears that a PO replaced the floor with uncoated PT plywood and glued down outdoor carpet and stopped. It was never completed. Needless to say the floor had to come out, foam had to come out. No surprises there thanks to this forum. I have been slowly acquiring supplies to begin the rebuild. Hoping to have it back in the water next summer. I started asking question about the boat on another thread, so i thought I should get off my butt and start my own. Set up a PB account with some pics so you can get an idea of where I am at. Advice and encouragement are greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Whats the, year and plans for her? Nice intro! Gonna be fun to follow!

 

[classiccat]

Nice find! V5 baby! :madgrin:

with a pressure-treated deck...that boat is lucky you found it! :thumb: Hopefully no collateral damage ray2:

 

[ford290]

Whats the, year and plans for her? Nice intro! Gonna be fun to follow!

I live in southern Ontario, on the north shore of Lake Erie. I want to set her up for fishing multi species on the Great Lakes. Pickeral, Salmon and Musky in particular. I am toying with the idea of making it a dual console but haven't decided yet. I like the layout of the SS, it seems a little more family friendly.

 

[Watermann]

:welcome: to the Starmada ford,

Super nice fishing platform to tear into the big water. :thumb:

Motor?

 

[ford290]

:welcome: to the Starmada ford,

Super nice fishing platform to tear into the big water. :thumb:

Motor?

Didn't come with one. Got a little ahead of myself and picked up a 2004 150 Mercury Optimax.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I see the year in the title now, dual consoles are nice i think. Like you said more fam friendly to me too.

 

[Decker83]

Real nice project you have.. I like the dual consoles also..
I'll be following along..

 

[Mnsota]

Thats a great looking boat... I'll be watching your build, I think you and I are taking on allmost identical projects.

 

[64osby]

Nice Mariner.

I think the Mariner can be a great family boat. We love taking ours out.

 

[ford290]

Thats a great looking boat... I'll be watching your build, I think you and I are taking on allmost identical projects.

Hey Mnsota, thanks for answering a few of my questions on your thread. Here is a pic of the elongated holes on my stringer. I think i will remove and add a doubler and rerivet like you mentioned. (with 5200 as well). You mentioned an 1100 rivet, is that a standard industry number or specific to a particular manufacturer?

 

[ford290]

Looked into rivets, 1100 refers to the alloys used. 1100 being almost pure aluminum is very soft hence would fill the voids easier. Gotcha. Is it better than to use a stronger rivet on undamaged or new holes. Can I get by just using the softer ones or do recommend something different?

 

[jbcurt00]

1100 is a typical rivet alloy

Rivetsonline.com has them

 

[Grandad]

Try Aircraft Spruce for rivets and rivet tools. They're in Brantford, maybe not too far from where you are. - Grandad
https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/menus/ha/rivets.html

 

[Watermann]

I've used the 1100's they are super soft and were not used in the making of any Starcraft. I would use 2117 rivets and a backer plate with the 5200 like you mentioned earlier.

 

[Mnsota]

That pic doesnt look so bad. when you mentioned it earlier before the pic, i was thinking both the stringer and hull holes were elongated. it looks like it is only the stringer though. It sounds like you got the rivit series info down. Any series of rivit will work, the harder the alloy the harder to buck the rivit. if you buck a rivit too much it can work harden the rivit resulting in lower strenth. better to buck a rivit fewer times with harder hit than long time at softer hit. Any kind will work, its probably not woth overthinking.

 

[bob johnson]

I would agree with Mnsota those rivets on the stringers don't look bad..its the stringer that has the oblong hole...now worry about a leak there... the hull sheet still looks good. on holes with the stingers like that, you could use a longer rivet and an aluminum washer!!! be carefull with some rivets...I got a hold of a bag of TOUGH rivets... and man it was just about impossible to buck them.....crank the air pressure up to 80 psi and still they wouldn't buck!!!!! set them all aside!!!

on all my sloppy rivet holes I drilled with a "C" drill through all and reamed with a 1/4" reamer..and skipped the 5200...but applying the 5200 isn't a bad idea...

my thought was to make a ROUND specific hole and the rivet being bucked would do the rest!.. I bought a bag of 5/16th dia and a bag of 3/8th dia rivets to make sure I got a nice clean round hole every time and I had the rivet to fill the hole!!


bob

 

[Watermann]

I wouldn't presume by a picture that any rivet below the water line doesn't look bad. I can tell that it probably isn''t loose or there would be a dark ring around it. My line of thought is that it the rivet below the waterline looks different than it should, replace it sealed with 5200 and don't look back. You won't ever be sorry, trust me.

2117's will bucktail nicely with a 2 second or less burst and I've used a bunch of them. 1100's do work just fine for say a crack or hole patch back buttered with 5200 but I would not use them on anything structural due to how soft they are.

Leak test your boat and mark all the leakers for repair but remember there is no water pressure compared to when you have water rushing under the boat when in use. So inspect them closely looking for any impact damaged or tipped rivets when under there.

 

[ford290]

Thanks for the input everyone. Sorry this isnt the best photo. The lower hull is unpainted. I have given the boat a once over visually looking for signs of loose or damaged rivets. I only have one broken off head, maybe a dozen suspect loose ones and the loose stringer on the one side so far. No signs of the corrosion that Dougyb found in his 84 Mariner. I am assuming that torpedoed his rebuild cause it ends abruptly right at the point he was talking about chalky rivet heads, salt corrosion and epoxy patches. The original seam seal appears fine. Should I be "testing" every rivet below the waterline? Knocking the heads and tails in some way?

 

[jbcurt00]

Theres no telling why Doug's post stopped, but he hasnt been on iboats in 18mo.

@Dougyb
@AndySky

Add water to the hull while in the trailer or lake test to find leakers, fix those and any you find to be suspect. Then seal the interior rivet heads and seams w GluvIt or CoatIt.

Leak test before and after GluvIt to confirm leak free.