Your SS is a 16' OB model. I've not seen any of the ones worked on here have the issues of rib end cracking or the most dreaded of all the spray rail chine split out. I don't remember you having these issues. The hull stiffeners I put in were to keep the split from ever happening but not so much the rib end cracking as the braces I put in were not under the ribs. That would've required drilling out 100's of solids in the seam and then the rib ends wouldn't have had the needed bend for the material to fit under them. Not to say that the braces I installed would have no effect on rib end cracking as they do add strength to the bottom and sides, just not as effective as being under the rib ends.
So what I'm saying is your smaller boat with a light and less powerful OB shouldn't have those issues and if you're replacing the side panels they alone should be good enough. Although if you're up for it then adding the braces certainly won't hurt and will add strength.
Staying off the throttle in heavy seas and a properly adjusted trailer set up will keep lots of these issues at bay on your boat. Just some food for thought.
Even though I spend much of my free time reading everyone else's threads on here, I have still been learning quite a few lessons the hard way.
I tried painting the wood framing under the bow with a rattle can. The paint looked horrible and ended up cracking. Stripped all of the paint off and used the old-timers wood protector formula on it.
Yeah Travis we all make mistakes and then some of us forget we learned that already and do it over again :lol:
Take me for instance this morning, had my 2nd batch of paint all cooked up and ready to shoot, opened it and poured it into my HVLP gun. Forgot to filter the paint so I poured it back out and since I hand't ran the gun just cleaned out the hopper. Yeah I should've cleaned the inside of the gun too because it choked out on me so I had to do it anyway but midstream painting.
That mahogany sure looks good it's a shame to cover it with paint. If you're going to paint it I suggest primer first and then a couple good coats of oil based paint.
Great job on your boat so far! I just picked up an 82 Sylvan SS today and I'm following your lead. I'll be ripping out the PO's shotty deck replacement tomorrow so looking forward to seeing that mess. I'm glad I found your project pics because I am literally going to be doing everything you have pictures of. Transom, floors, splash well. That said...all tips are welcome. I need my project done by the 2nd-3rd week in august. I have a lot of time to work on it, so I think I can get it done, but I wont have time to make too many mistakes!
Picked up a sand blaster kit for my pressure washer.
I used a larger one to sandblast the body of an old mustang I repainted, and it worked very well. The water kept the sheet metal from warping. The only problem with using it on steel was that it would begin rusting immediately, that isn't going to be a problem with the aluminum.
Have the hull flipped, and have started using stripper to remove the majority of the paint.
Have it flipped. Been removing paint with paint stripper/pressure washer. Found a bunch of bondo I heated up and scraped off. Hitting the tough spots with sand blaster.
What is the purpose of spraying down the hull with vinegar? Does it wash it, or stabilize it?
Stumbled across some of the few pics of the jeep that inspired this build. Only owned it for a few months before I decided I wanted something just like it, but a boat.
Green stuff is kicking my butt. Going to try the 3M pad with a handle.
Trying to decide how far to go with body work. It has some dents, but what aluminum boat doesn't? Thinking for what it is, having some dents is better than having bondo. The way I see it, most jeeps have dents, gives them character. Although, there are a lot of jeeps out there with plenty of bondo too...
I suck at body work and wouldn't even start to tell someone how to do it. I do know what material works for boats and bondo is not it. Use Marine Tex, it's way easy to sand. Filling holes use JB Waterweld.
