SS4x4, A themed build.

Prepmech

Seaman
Joined
Oct 22, 2015
Messages
66
After fixing all of the cracks in the splashwell, I have been trying to figure out a good way to reinforce it to keep it from cracking again. Thinking about making a rack to sit over the splashwell like they put over the spare tire on Jeeps.



Something similar to this, but it would have a cut out section for the outboard to tilt up. Thinking it might add some nice storage for items that can get wet, and would drain through the splashwell. Would probably leave an opening on one side of the back to get in and out of the water.
 

Prepmech

Seaman
Joined
Oct 22, 2015
Messages
66
For steps on the back of the transom to get in and out of the water, I have been thinking about using some stainless CJ bumperetts.

 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
I'm thinking that the CJ world costs extra just like anything with the handle "marine" attached.
 

Prepmech

Seaman
Joined
Oct 22, 2015
Messages
66
Working on my splashell today. Much of the bent flange that screws to the transom is torn loose, or damaged. So I took the rest off.




 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
Yeap definitely the best way to go about repairing that cracked angle.
 

g0nef1sshn

Lieutenant
Joined
Feb 24, 2015
Messages
1,291
You have some interesting ideas going on here. Going to be a nice looking custom boat when your through! Im curious to see how them lights work out. You have me searching the web for some other ideas now for mine!
 

wheeldriver

Seaman
Joined
May 29, 2012
Messages
50
I can offer you my experience in adding lights to your boat, I see you are looking to add some automotive lights. I do a fare amount of night fishing on my SS. My first attempt at adding lights was putting them up near the dash. I did not hard wire them in, only temporally clamped them to see how they would perform. Out on the water well passed sunset when I turned them on the entire bow area of my boat became illuminated, sending my eyes to go back to daylight savings time:eek:. I was not able to see much of anything beyond the bow from the brightness. The night vision I had adjusted too was now gone and I had to wait for my eyes to readjust.

My second attempt was to place the lights as far forward as possible so none of the boat itself was illuminated. The photo below is a fellow iboats members boat I found to use as a example.


It worked ok, however I learned that out on open water the effectiveness of lights is not very dramatic. Water tends to absorb the light as well as reflect it away, there is simply nothing there to reflect back to you. If you don't go to fast and you have some very bright lights its great at avoiding deadheads in the water directly in front of the boat, and navigating when getting close to the dock.

The best tool for night in a boat for me turned out to be a large hand held “beam” flashlight. I can track the shoreline, sweep in front of the boat for deadheads and easily spot reflective buoys very far away to navigate. Again just sharing some experiences, hope it helps.

I'm enjoying your thread, keep the photos coming!
 
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Prepmech

Seaman
Joined
Oct 22, 2015
Messages
66
Very good point about the lights. On the jeeps we would paint the hoods flat black to keep them from glowing. Not really an option on a boat.

Can't decide on what to do about fuel tank. Putting one under floor, or using portable plastic tank both have benefits.

Leaning towards portable tank, keeps it simple . uses up space under splashwell, but I could then use space in floor for rod locker. Would be much easier to drain out if I got a bad batch of fuel.

The biggest benefit of the tank under the floor would be that it puts weight low and further forward, but mounting it, adding a vent and fill hose, and fuel gauge makes it a lot more work
 

Prepmech

Seaman
Joined
Oct 22, 2015
Messages
66
Trailer was too long to fit in my garage, so I cut and sleeved the tongue so I can remove it.

 

Prepmech

Seaman
Joined
Oct 22, 2015
Messages
66
Been getting quite a bit done. Filling holes, and fixing cracks. Gunwales are done and ready for paint. Splashwell is almost done.

Can't decide where to bring the fuel and wiring for the motor through the splashwell. The steering is easy, as its hole is already there. Was thinking about a bulkhead fitting for fuel.

They originally came through a large hole in the front of the splashwell. Is that the best place for them?

Still can't decide on which fuel tank to use.
 

Prepmech

Seaman
Joined
Oct 22, 2015
Messages
66
I can offer you my experience in adding lights to your boat, I see you are looking to add some automotive lights. I do a fare amount of night fishing on my SS. My first attempt at adding lights was putting them up near the dash. I did not hard wire them in, only temporally clamped them to see how they would perform. Out on the water well passed sunset when I turned them on the entire bow area of my boat became illuminated, sending my eyes to go back to daylight savings time:eek:. I was not able to see much of anything beyond the bow from the brightness. The night vision I had adjusted too was now gone and I had to wait for my eyes to readjust.

I completely understand what you mean. When you turn my brother's lights on, it makes his hood glow.
 

Prepmech

Seaman
Joined
Oct 22, 2015
Messages
66


These cracks are kicking my butt. I have welded them up and ground them smooth. The metal is so thin that I am worried they will just crack again.

I have a pretty good stash of aluminum angle, so going to reinforce it with a few pieces from behind.

Countersink some rivets would be my fist choice, but it is hard to get to the backs with my bucking bar.

Have seen some other threads mentioning epoxy adhesive. I have a gun, and a few different types of panel adhesive, but not sold on it yet.

Been thinking about countersunk blind rivets, and spot welds as well.

Any advice?
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,829
Use closed end flush mount blinds. I'd skip the spot welds
 

dozerII

Admiral
Joined
Oct 25, 2009
Messages
6,527
On my 79 18 SS, I had the same cracks, I cut a piece of 1/8 aluminum to run most of the way across the splash well then riveted and glued it to the underside to ensure no future cracks.

If you go here, starting in post 42 ending in 55 you will see what I did, (you will have to click on each picture link) http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...hlight=dozerii
 
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