Man of Steel Goes Aluminum

PikeHunter431

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
171
IMG_3078c.jpg For 45 years I have fished out of a trusty 14' plate steel logging boat.

IMG_4484c.jpg

But alas I have succumbed, and bought an 18' 73 Starcraft Supersport which I plan on restoring / retrofitting. Needless to say, I am a neophyte at this sort of thing.
20150907_174930cp.jpg 20150907_175036cp.jpg 20150907_175156cp.jpg 20150907_175002cp.jpg 20150907_175150cp.jpg She's pretty scratched up. The floor is soft in the middle from the front to the back, so I am guessing it is a gut and rebuild. I would like to redesign the front deck area, the rear area around the splash pan and also put in a significant livewell.
 

TruckDrivingFool

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,818
For once someone that has switched to tin might have to be told to go a little easier on it than your used to. :) Think it might even be a first.

In so I remember to watch your progress.
 

fishin98

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 28, 2009
Messages
521
Looks like a great PROJECT BOAT...as your taking things apart...take pictures.....use you old floor as a pattern for the new one.
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
2,679
:welcome:to the Tinsanity! That SS looks like a great project, and she can be turned into a nice fishing machine. I'll be tagging along for the ride, and looking forward to your progress.
 

fishin98

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 28, 2009
Messages
521
When you have the boat gutted...take to boat launch, if possible and put it in the water to check for seam and rivet leaks, on old boats it makes sense to fix leaks then rather than trying to repair when the boat is back together.
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Building a front casting deck with below deck storage and a live well is fairly easy if you have the right tools and a good idea of what you want.



The blacked out openings are storage area and a live well, the red dot is where the pedestal seat goes.

Using .063" (1/16") aluminum angle will be light and it won't rot. I have more pics of the procedure if you're interested.
 

PikeHunter431

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
171
Thanks everyone.

fishin98: Yes, lots of pictures through the whole process. The memory retrieval function is not what it used to be. (thank goodness for digital, can't imagine what it would have cost to do film and processing on this project.)

I was planning on doing a launch and leak test before gutting, but I like the idea of doing it afterwards. It would be easier to spot the problem areas (if there are any -- fingers crossed). And I can get to the gutting sooner.

jigngrub: That is some serious structure you have there. (not that I have ever done anything some might consider excessive :) ) Did you do some sort of welding with the aluminum angle pieces?
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
jigngrub: That is some serious structure you have there. (not that I have ever done anything some might consider excessive :) ) Did you do some sort of welding with the aluminum angle pieces?

No welding, all riveted just like tinnies were meant to be made.

That boat actually started out like this:


Then it went to this:


I put a deck on the stern too:


 
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PikeHunter431

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Sep 8, 2015
Messages
171
Thanks Jigngrub, the pictures are great and helpful in thinking about design.

Ok I am out of hibernation as the spring thaw seems to have come to upstate NY. I decided last fall to wait on the rework, put the boat in storage for the winter, take her up north (Lake Temiskaming, Ontario) and use her like she is for one season before doing the redesign/rework. My fishing there is normally from late May to early July. Then bring here home and start gutting. Part of my concern was not having enough good weather left to get through the painting process before winter sat in. (and it did coincide with bow season here, which would have been distracting.)

In the meantime I did a good bit of reading (and forgetting I think) and the questions are starting to bubble up.

For instance, does anyone know approximately what the distance is between the stringers, as well at what kind of height there is from the top of the stringers to the bottom? I am thinking of putting a below deck gas tank in. If I know that, I could start looking for a better deal on one than the price I may pay for "gotta buy it now cause I can't move forward until I have it" situation.

I am also planning on a fairly large live well, but I think anything I would be serious about would be too high to be put in the floor.

I also want to take out most of the splash pan section for a lower rear casting deck, in some ways similar to what you have done Jigngrub. Did the original design with the upright supports and the pan across provide a structural support that needs accommodating for in a redesign?
 

sprintst

Commander
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Messages
2,066
Awesome choice for a project boat. I was originally looking for one way back when.
 

jimbotek

Recruit
Joined
Mar 15, 2016
Messages
2
Hi Pike Hunter. I am currently involved in the resto of a 77 ss. I have done a fair amount of research and can help w/ some simple stuff. I would enjoy trading progress w/you and the rest of the Starcraft gang. A few points:
If you want to leak check, why not gut the boat, put it on a level spot (on level trailer), and fill it with water to 3/4 height of transom or presumed waterline. With this method I was able to observe the drying of the outside hull for days and closely examine all rivets and possible cracks. I've restored several small boats and this is my favorite leak check method.
Don't bother with pressure treated wood. Marine plywood costs a fortune ($75persheet) but you shouldn't waste your time otherwise. I got 5 sheets at Curtis Lumber in Balston Spa (I drove 2/12 hrs one way). This will cover your decks & transom. I live in upstate NY too.
I like measuring twice and cutting once so I like to use cardboard to verify correct sizing for deck panels and transom. The templates are made from the orignals.
I am at the point of fastening the floor down and I'm using Nautolux Vinyl (OEM Vinyl) on the floor. I will come back to the forum with some pictures, this is my 1st post ever. I must say this is an excellent resource and three cheers for Iboat people.
 

PikeHunter431

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
171
Hi Jimbotek, and welcome to the iboats Startmada forums. It would be great to keep track with each other?s progress. Pics are great. The people here love them and it does really help, both the posters when posting and asking questions and for readers (such as ourselves) learning about what people are doing.

I am with you on the once gutted, checking to find leaks. Being a wee bit anal on occasion, I may put it in the canal first to check, and then pull and fill partially (as you suggest) for a second check. I wasn't sure if there was any chance that the boat weight on the trailer could push / hide any issues where the hull and trailer are in contact.

My current intention is to go with non pressure treated plywood. It seems the pressure treatment uses a lot of chemicals that would be detrimental. I may use marine, but I have seen alot of others talk about using slightly lower grades and basically massively sealing/expoxy the wood. I take it you used marine plywood. What did you use/do for sealing it?

I also have a curiosity on what synthetic materials may be available these days, their costs and characteristics. The idea(l) of never rotting does have appeal. From what I have seen, there may be plastics or composites around. They seem to be 2x and up in costs. The plastics appear to get really hot if in warm sunny environments. This may not be such an issue for me and my primary boat usage in northern Ontario and a bit here in upstate NY. (Although if the global warming keeps moving along, who knows, we may even end up with a couple sunny days.) The composites will still absorb water, the aeration underneath (or lack of it I should say), and robustness to something like power washing look to be issues there. Most likely, I will just go with the plywood.

Looking around at the new boats on the market, it seems a lot of them come with vinyl deck covering instead of just carpet. I like this idea a lot, especially since my passion is northern pike fishing. Pike are extremely slimy, and managing the slim on the carpet (or not managing it and the stink) is a new issue for me as I am coming from a bare steel hull craft. My wife likes the idea of just being able to spray the slime off the deck (or back to a spot where a bilge could get it.)

Is your current SS project a 16? or 18??

2 1/2 hrs to Balston Spa would put you near Plattsburg if to the North or Syracuse if to the West.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
IF you can find 23/32 Arauco Brand Plywood (Some Home Depot's and Lowe's carry it) it is a very good plywood.

857442000149lg.jpg

It has 7 plys, almost void free and uses 100% waterproof glue. This is how I recommend sealing your wood for a "Tin" boat...http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ph-fm160b-restoration?p=10134976#post10134976
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
Nice SS you found, we have a bunch of them going right now, including mine. Seeing that bare raw plywood deck in her though causes me to offer a warning about considering the problems that could come about when using your boat as it is with the possibility of rotten decking, transom and loose rivets that attach the side panels. These old boats rely heavily on them for structural stability.

I missed your thread originally when you started it here in the vast glass wasteland restoration forum. New Starcraft threads get buried pretty quick here but get lots of Starmada attention in our Starcraft forum
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,829
Here or the SC forum is up to you. If you want it moved it can be moved.

Rib end and hull stress cracks of the chines and hull at the rib ends is a possibility. Watermann found quute a few on his Chief.
 

PikeHunter431

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
171
IF you can find 23/32 Arauco Brand Plywood (Some Home Depot's and Lowe's carry it) it is a very good plywood.

857442000149lg.jpg

It has 7 plys, almost void free and uses 100% waterproof glue. This is how I recommend sealing your wood for a "Tin" boat...http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ph-fm160b-restoration?p=10134976#post10134976

Thanks WOG for the information.
It looks like the local Home Depot has the plywood. I noticed it said interior use only. I am guessing the sealing process makes it fine for use as boat decking/transom.
On the sealing mixture, what ratio between the three products?
I take that using this mixture takes the place of using the 2 part epoxy coatings?
 

PikeHunter431

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
171
Here or the SC forum is up to you. If you want it moved it can be moved.

Rib end and hull stress cracks of the chines and hull at the rib ends is a possibility. Watermann found quute a few on his Chief.

Hi JBCurtt00. Yes, why don't we move it. The placement was just a newbie trying to get started and would appreciate getting more integrated into the Starmada..
 

PikeHunter431

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
171
Nice SS you found, we have a bunch of them going right now, including mine. Seeing that bare raw plywood deck in her though causes me to offer a warning about considering the problems that could come about when using your boat as it is with the possibility of rotten decking, transom and loose rivets that attach the side panels. These old boats rely heavily on them for structural stability.

I missed your thread originally when you started it here in the vast glass wasteland restoration forum. New Starcraft threads get buried pretty quick here but get lots of Starmada attention in our Starcraft forum

Thanks for the warning Watermann. I am not trying to discount it, but here is what I found so far and plans forward. The wood flooring under the wood has a little sponge to it, but not severely rotten. The guys I purchased the boat from were some hefty construction workers (250lb+). I have had water in the boat from a couple heavy storms in the fall and didn't notice any leakage. Not sure that means a lot, but perhaps not major league loose rivets. I couldn't find any cracks on the exterior of the hull. The paint is pretty scrapped, but not too bad on the dinging. I understand there may still be cracks inside, just counting out a couple of the things that would be visible outside. The pieces of transom I could see looked pretty good and tapping around seemed solid. I plan on replacing it with new, but at least there seems to be some reasonable signs. I also plan on being easy, if you will, with her. In reality, I am talking about two, one week periods, with most of it on a slow river of about 2 miles in length and perhaps 2 miles down the lake if it isn't rough. It is powered with an 85 hp Johnson 4 stroke, a 7.5 Mercury kicker and if the birthday gods come through, an electric trolling motor for the bow.

All that being said, what else could I check or look for to either spot what could be a major problem and or avoid a catastrophe?
 
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