Starcraft Marlin 1965

[pro-crastinator]

Starcraft rebuild 1965 Marlin

Its a 1965 Starcraft Marlin
$390 new FOB
14' 1" length
64" beam
320 lbs
16" transom hight 54" transon width
40hp max
850lbs capacity

Floor replacement
This is where I am directing my next effort.
Have many questions.
Will develop this with another post - as this one is not letting me download pics.

aluminum patching/hole repair.
Many / most of my holes are exposed and visible. The jbweld/aluminum backer method sounds like it will be just right – but you stated that this would be better for unseen repairs. I could use more comments regarding this.
Resin coating on wood
I'll get epoxy resin and resist the temptation to use the polyester. I'll need it for the new transom anyway...
I didn't realize the UV vulnerability of the epoxy. Huh.
Also thinking about encapsulating pink foam panels under seats with epoxy resin. Maybe some fiberglass mat would improve things here.

Renamed thread
The adventure began with the link below.
You guys are great!
Thanks for the conversation – It helps O so much to bounce off ideas to those who have done it already.
-Bennett

 

[pro-crastinator]

No Title

Floor Replacement
Center rail is 8 feet long.
Item1
Floor "panels" are looking like they should be 4 feet long, 3 of em. The 2 panels over the center rail will have the orientation of the sheet going port-starboard.
The 3rd panel - which I am not convinced I want or need - would be oriented bow-stern because its maximum width is less than 48 inches.
I wish I could see what it looked like when new.

Item2
How THICK was the factory floor.??
I ask this because there are a few heavy rivits on the center rail of the boat - their size looks like they fastened a panel that was 1/4 inch thick.
SO whats up with that?
And how thick a piece of stock should I use for my new floor?

Item3
What about a piece of wood running along the center rib/rail that would give added rigidity to the craft.
I'm thinking 1 1/2 inch thick stock - 8 feet long. Encapsulated in epoxy resin.

Item4 (copied from previous thread - but is relevant here)
Flotation. Under the future floor, I figure that I have (very conservative) 7200 square inches of space for foam. I'm figuring 2 inch thick sheets cut into appropriate pieces. Thats 4.16 cubic feet of foam. Is that enough? - no. Not with a 320 lb aluminum boat and a 150 lb motor. 5.38 is needed. (lotta math not shown - and boat does not weigh 320 lbs and motor does not weigh 150) SO, still need to find room for "the rest" of a 4'x8'x2" sheet of foam board (plus a little more) - which contains 5.333 cubic feet of foam - and provides 62 lbs of flotation per cubic foot.

 

[pro-crastinator]

Hi guys. I'm re posting this thread cause I apparently put it in the wrong location. Thanks in advance for looking!

---

This is my newest toy ? in its original paint ? is that aquamarine? Wow, talk about dated. Kinda like it.
1965 Starcraft Marlin (listed as utility - UT)
$390 new FOB 14' 1" length 64" beam 320 lbs 16" transom height 54" transom width 40hp max 850lbs capacity
Floor replacement
This is where I am directing my next efforts.
It has a center rail aluminum stringer that is 8 feet long, with another 48 inches + from front of stringer to bow. I wonder about installing a wooden ?backer? with the stringer to give it more rigidity. I'm thinking about a 2x8x8 stock ? cut to fit under the lip of the stringer. Encapsulated in epoxy resin.
Item1
Floor "panels" are looking like they should be in 4 ft pieces, The 2 panels over the center stringer will have the orientation of the sheet going port-starboard. The 3rd panel - which I am not convinced I want or need ? would fit in the bow section / grain oriented bow-stern because its maximum width is less than 48 inches.
I wish I could see what it looked like when new. How far back did the decking go? Probably farther than I am planning to do.

Item2
How THICK was the factory floor.??
I ask this because there are a few heavy rivets on the center rail (stringer) of the boat - their size looks like they fastened a panel that was 1/4 inch thick. SO whats up with that? Were the rivets recessed in the plywood? I am presuming the orig deck was plywood.
I read where 5/8 is a good choice but I am thinking ? thick will allow me to use a router and remove a small amount of wood down the center of the panels where it contacts the stringer. This will allow the floor to lie flat. The boat had a beam that was 3-4 inches less than spec.and I think this goobered up the ?level? of the correct floor height. Not a huge problem.


Item3 (copied from previous thread - but is relevant here)
Flotation. Under the future floor, I figure that I have (very conservative) 7200 square inches of space for foam. I'm figuring 2 inch thick sheets cut into appropriate pieces. That's 4.16 cubic feet of foam. Is that enough? - no. Not with a 320 lb aluminum boat and a 150 lb motor. 5.38 is needed. (lotta math not shown - and boat does not weigh 320 lbs and motor does not weigh 150) SO, still need to find room for "the rest" of a 4'x8'x2" sheet of foam board (plus a little more) - which contains 5.333 cubic feet of foam - and provides 62 lbs of flotation per cubic foot.


aluminum patching/hole repair.
Many / most of my holes are exposed and visible.
The jbweld/aluminum backer method sounds ok but I am unsure. I have some brazing rods and flux ordered ? and will see how it looks when I get it in my hands. I could use more comments regarding this.

Resin coating on wood
I'll get epoxy resin and resist the temptation to use the polyester. I'll need it for the new transom anyway...
I didn't realize the UV vulnerability of the epoxy. Huh.
Also thinking about encapsulating pink foam panels under seats with epoxy resin. Maybe some fiberglass mat would improve things here.

You guys are great!
Thanks for the conversation ? It helps O so much to bounce off ideas to those who have done it already.
-Bennett

 

[jbcurt00]

Pro
If you ever think you need a topic in a forum other then where you started it, just ask a mod to move it for you.

I'll merge the 2 here if this is where you'd like it to be documented.

Prevents duplication of effort and keeps all the info in 1 place so later someone can see whats been done and discussed already

 

[jbcurt00]

Later when I'm not on my cell, I'll tidy up a bit. Delete duplicate posts and pix, etc.

GA may swing thru and do it before I get back to my laptop.

 

[64osby]

aluminum patching/hole repair.
Many / most of my holes are exposed and visible. The jbweld/aluminum backer method sounds like it will be just right ? but you stated that this would be better for unseen repairs. I could use more comments regarding this.

Where are the holes you need to patch?

 

[GA_Boater]

Later when I'm not on my cell, I'll tidy up a bit. Delete duplicate posts and pix, etc.

GA may swing thru and do it before I get back to my laptop.

The only other thread I see is "What are these brackets". :noidea:

 

[jbcurt00]

This merged topic has some duplicate posts and pix above

 

[GA_Boater]

I'll just close it. The bracket question was answered, so it served the purpose.

 

[60Grit]

Pro,
I'm very interested to see how this goes. I also have an old Starcraft that I believe is a Marlin 16 based on measurements. I'm missing the identification plate because the previous owner modified the transom to take a long shaft ob. My city hall tells me that mine is a 1963 based on registration history. I agree with you that the old green is pretty cool. I may incorporate that color when I decide to begin my resto...

 

[pro-crastinator]

60 grit - thanks for the encouragement
64osby- heres a few pics of some of the holes I got -

ALSO: Apologies to our administrators for having to un-goober up all the posts I goofed up - Sorry Guys

 

[pro-crastinator]

No Title

Yes. I see a 16 foot Marlin for 65. 60grit - does your boat have the floor in it? WOuld love to see how it looks.

 

[jbcurt00]

No apologies needed, happens

 

[60Grit]

Yes. I see a 16 foot Marlin for 65. 60grit - does your boat have the floor in it? WOuld love to see how it looks.

Sorry Pro, my floor did not survive the test of time either. I have been using it without for time being. I'm also missing the section of bow deck. Not sure if mine ever had that or not.

 

[60Grit]

Hey Pro, I wonder if there is a formula that can determine the age of a boat by the number of holes drilled by previous owners? Kinda like measuring the growth rings on a tree.
The PO of my Marlin even drilled a single hole right in the center of the star on the transom corner caps. Not sure why, but must have seemed important at the time.

 

[pro-crastinator]

My PO drilled my corner caps aswell. Had reel holders bolted down there.
I'm waiting to get my angle grinder and remove the rest of the crap bolted to the boat.
Monday - its all coming off.

 

[64osby]

The holes on the bow could use the backer with out issue. The ones on the side probably could too. Just use thin sheet that will not stick out or make an edge. You might end up mixing your blood with the fish blood.

Dozer did a great job patching holes on one of his projects, just don't remember which one.

 

[jbcurt00]

Dozer did a great job on them all to the best of my knowledge, but the In the Red one has pretty good details, IIRC

Here's the last 3 Dozer SCs:
In the Red http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...mercruiser-120
1986 Starcraft SS201 http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=543074
1979 18 SS rebuild http://forums.iboats.com/showthread....hlight=dozerii

 

[pro-crastinator]

Man o man. Tnats alot to go thru. Ill be back Monday.

 

[pro-crastinator]

No Title

Forward momentum
Picked up a 2x8x10 and cut a taper on the bandsaw. Fit it under the lip of the aluminum stringer. No screws, rivets, fasteners (YET).
What I want to report is that - the "feel" of the boat - while on the trailer, standing in it - COMPLETELY changed.
That piece of pine was just tucked under that lip and it stiffened the boat - totally amazing.

Will take it out and prepare for sealing of the wood. Just assembling my components.

I have a template cut out - and need to trace on my 5/8 plywood.

Side note: I originally thought in interesting that Starcraft chose to install an 8 foot stringer - and not take it to the point of the boat.
The bottom of the boat begins to rise - just after the end of the alum stringer. I had to trim my wood to allow for the rise.
more to come.....