1977 15' StarCraft Holiday Restomod

coostv

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Mar 21, 2010
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230
Unfortunately I had to "borrow" back the Holiday's trailer... Headed for a trip to Michigan's Upper Peninsula later this week and need a boat that can be carried to the water (here if you are interested https://www.google.com/maps/place/4...edd4d8a8ef!7e2!8m2!3d46.2498924!4d-89.2885293). I booted her off the other day, She did not seem to mind, she is probably thankful that I have at least put Gluvit in and got the stern floor piece in. At the rate this project is going, it will certainly not see water again until the ice is off in 2017!!!

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It sucks that I have been on this Starcraft project as long as I have! But, it is at least going a lot fater than my Mustang project, lol.
 

jbcurt00

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I've been to Berrien Springs before, but for work, no fishing :(

Safe travels and have a great trip.
 

coostv

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Mar 21, 2010
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Been very busy with work and other projects and am usually too tired to work on the boat, but I am now gearing up for a full blown kitchen remodel. So, while I wait for the cabinets we ordered a few weeks ago to arrive, I'd better get on this project while the getting is good since I have not a clue how long that will take and spring is coming fast.

I had been toying with the idea of cutting the bow open for some time now. I made the decision to just do it. What's done is now done, now to make it look like it was not just a hack job done in haste. The last statement is why most of my projects take a lot longer than they do for others. Sometimes too much thinking leads to not so much doing. So, one day after a few hop type beverages I decided to get after it. If my buddy Larry is lurking, you know what I am talking about (4 year Mustang project that is 4 years away from completion...)

Enough of that. Along with pictures I hope to explain this well enough for anyone contemplating doing the same. What I have found is, anyone in the future could reverse this with a sheet of new 5052 AL and a little thought. I have also toyed with the thought of buying a sheet of AL and making a custom bow cover painted to match the boat for that Holiday look, but who knows if I would ever get around to that :D. A lot of ideas flow through my head when I get into these projects.

First step in the bowectomy, Make a cut. I laid my I-Pilot on the bow and figured out how much to leave on the bow, then I traced a line at 6" in from the rub rail trim around the sides and used a gallon paint can for the radius cuts at the bow end and connected the dots with a straight edge. The opening came out small, I expected that, but I wanted to sneak up on the final size rather than cut too much off the bat.

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Then I removed the rub rail and drilled all the rivets out to get the bow aluminum to lay flat and trimmed off the excess at the rear of the bow piece which ended up being about an inch and an eighth per side at the back end and of course tapered toward the bow.

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I was still not sure how much of the bow aluminum I was going to be able to keep, but I will used it as a template for the 3/4" ply I used for the support.

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Knowing that using the bow piece was not an exact size, I decided it would be much easier to just trim the pieces later rather than trying to measure or trace cardboard, etc. I had to do some trimming at the point of the bow and just laid the two pieces on top of each other marked a line and cut, I could have cut both and centered it, but it doesn't really matter to me if they are even. I will be joining them underneath with another cut piece of ply and glue anyway. For the rear of the pieces I just marked the forward end of the gunwales and trimmed them to sit flush at the top.

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Here it is with the bow aluminum laid back on getting ready for windshield placement and final opening marking/cutting. I knew the ply would be bigger than needed, but I figured the jig saw would be running a bunch more by the time I was done. I will be cutting about 6" or so more back toward the windshield and trimming the sides another couple inches (4" from the rub rail as opposed to the 6" I originally did). I will probably not end up being able to keep the areas I left for the two side consoles, but for mock up purposes it has helped with the concept.

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I went out and turned the heat on in the shop a little while ago, it should be good and warm now, so it is time to get after it.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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Nice work on the bowectomy. Looking at the amount of room up in the bow, you may want to move the consoles back, I don't think you could even get a pedestal seat up there.
 

coostv

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Mar 21, 2010
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Thanks Watermann, that was the idea. I have cut it back as far as I plan to to. I moved the windshield to where I thought it made sense and marked it out as shown (if you can see the black marker lines).

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Here it is all cut out. It now has a little over three feet from the bow to the windshield.

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Here it is mocked up with my "shop" seat and the I-Pilot trolling motor.

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I have completely fallen for this boat all over again! LOL
 

coostv

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Mar 21, 2010
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I forgot to add this pic, The bow has been glued together as well.

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ezmobee

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Mar 26, 2007
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Since your trolling motor is not foot controlled you should have plenty of room up there. If it was a foot controlled you'd have an issue. I didn't allow enough space for mine and ended up having to remount my chair.
 
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I just bought back my StarCraft boat last year, after I got into a pretty nasty accident involving ski-doo and I had to sell it. Thankfully I hired a great lawyer at Oatley Vigmond Law Firm, and they helped me out immensely. Now I have my baby back! She's a '73 StarCraft Mariner! I wish I had pictures to share but unfortunately I don't.
 

coostv

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Mar 21, 2010
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ezmobee/watermann

This one is not capable of using a pedal, unless I make a switch box for it (unless they have come out with something in the last couple years I am not aware of?). I think I could use a Power Drive pedal without too much hassle. My old 14' was close to the same size as far as casting deck goes, was not too bad with a PD pedal. Those pedals were not that reliable though, IIRC I replaced it twice.

Boaty, go get some pics and start a thread!
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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It's tough to read the model name in your pic, I thought it's a Power Drive ipilot with the old style mount. Yeah they don't come with a foot control but if you look at Minn Kota's website they have foot pedals for them.
http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Trolli...ew-PowerDrive/
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Redesigned PowerDrive Foot Pedal

Control speed, steering, and momentary and constant on/off with the newly redesigned, robust foot pedal. This corded foot pedal includes 18' of cord and is waterproof.
Note: PowerDrive trolling motors that come pre-installed with i-Pilot do not include the foot pedal.
 

coostv

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Mar 21, 2010
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Watermann, unfortunately for my model, you either get one or the other as far as Pedal vs Remote control goes. There are a few write ups out there spelling out how to have both via a switch box, I will probably do that later. I will say, once it is on "Auto Pilot" aka "Recorded Route" it is awesome not having to worry about where the boat is going as long as there are no other boats around!

I have been playing with how to tie the bow into the gunwales and thenk I came up with a solution. I bent a couple pieces of aluminum to connect the two. At this point there will be a couple screws through the ply into my bent pieces. It sure did stiffen things up when I had it connected with my locking pliers.

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I will be doing more to stiffen thins up, but this is where I am at for now.
 

No-AH

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Oct 20, 2016
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Tagging along on your redo mate.
Ya nicely done. Remember that when you tie it all up with your finish ply from floor to consoles will also tighten things up considerably :thumb:
 

coostv

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Mar 21, 2010
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Thanks No-AH, hopefully things will be rolling along soon. A kitchens worth of cabinets jumped on my utility trailer Saturday, so I think I may have to take a break from this until said cabinets are installed. In the meantime, I will be rounding up the rest of the parts and pieces I need to finish out the bow and consoles.

One thing that is undetermined for the whole project is the splash well. I want to shrink it and have been studying what others have done on here, but I am not sure which way I want to go with it yet.
 

No-AH

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Oct 20, 2016
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Agreed.
I just removed all that big monstrosity of a splashwell on mine....man is it huge! The fear everyone has in removing it goes into deaf ears with me. After removing it, it is so flimsy and I really wondered what structural integrity it really donned.....I have the layout of the new footprint of it on paper and will be fabbing a new smaller version into the rear casting deck this week with .125 or .1875" AL......
Have fun with yr cabinetry....
 

coostv

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Mar 21, 2010
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Agreed.
I just removed all that big monstrosity of a splashwell on mine....man is it huge! The fear everyone has in removing it goes into deaf ears with me. After removing it, it is so flimsy and I really wondered what structural integrity it really donned.....I have the layout of the new footprint of it on paper and will be fabbing a new smaller version into the rear casting deck this week with .125 or .1875" AL......
Have fun with yr cabinetry....

The route I am considering is buying a piece (or scrounging one at work) of AL channel and using angle to attach it to the gunwales, I could then bend a new piece to connect it to the cut down splash well. I am not sure this boat really needs it for strength given the way the gunwales are formed as they seem like they'd be fine on their own, but I'd rather be safe than sorry, plus not flooding the boat on an abrupt stop is always good! As a plus, the top of the channel will provide a great place to mount rod holders for trolling.
 

jbcurt00

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It may not be a structural member in the typical way, or initially, but the triangulation of it, the 'strut' created across the face of the transom by attaching the transom edge of the splashwell to it, and the 'box beam' at the front of the splashwell that also ties the gunwales to each other, IMO all does perform a structural function, in total if only by the sum of its parts.

If it didnt perfom any structural function it wouldnt get stressed and crack when these old tin boats are neglected or abused. Pounding thru wakes/waves or w rotten decks and transoms.

Same for the reason rib end cracks develop when theres no side panels and/or a rotten deck allows the hull chine to flex. Thats the reason we believe SC adopted the rib end plate reinforcements and retro-fits. At least 2 70s SC topics were both returned to SC for the factory retro-fit of reinforcement plates.

Down size or modify it if you want, but dont discount the necessity of the splashwell as an important element.

As noted, a following sea washing over the transom is certainly a possibility too.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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I agree completely ^^^

The SW in my V5 model SS is extremely stout but out of the boat it didn't seem like much either. I took it apart and reassembled it with new solid rivets and all the seams sealed with 5200. The SW is bolted through the transom, top of the knee braces and riveted into the gunnels. It certainly is a structural element of the boat that ties in the bottom, transom and gunnels all together. If reworked all of that needs to be taken into consideration and duplicated as best you can.
 

oldhaven

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Aug 30, 2015
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Good engineering is making something as strong as possible with the least amount of weight. Motorcycles are a brilliant example of this. It is not quite so important with boats but it counts when you add up miles per gallon. It is easy to make something strong by adding pounds of material. It is far more difficult to make things strong by taking away pounds. The engineers at Starcraft must have had this in mind, though they were restricted by production economics. From the standards of the sixties, or even now, they did a pretty good job of making a light boat that could stand up to a pounding.
 

coostv

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Mar 21, 2010
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Been taking a slight break from the boat project. I have also been trying to do as much as I can to the boat in the mean time, but unfortunately nothing picture worthy... I have the upper cabinets in place in the kitchen and can now start on taking out the lowers/counters, but I will probably wait for that as I am trying to do this with minimal time off from work.

Not exactly boat related, but progress just the same, lol. Crown molding will be added later, seems like a complicated task with the addition of the taller cabinets in opposite corners.I will say, they are a lot more level than the ones I took out! Out with the crappy old white melamine and in with the new maple. From the living room couch it looks perfect, just need a new paint color, lol.

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Dropped a bunch of money online today for parts and pieces, front and rear pedestals and bases, seats, trolling motor circuit breaker, helm switch panel, and a host of other necessities for completion.

Been picking at the bow for the last couple days cutting and fitting pieces in. Wow, did this ever stiffen things up. Hopefully will have more to report shortly, I am on a pretty good roll now.

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I am going to start coating things tomorrow after dinner at the in-laws house. I can smell the Walleye frying in the pan on shore as I type...

***Edit, I also made some seat boxes, you can see them towards the top of the picture. They are big enough to store all life preservers and more. Will be putting a hinged lid on them behind the seats.
 
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