johnpnorth
Cadet
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2010
- Messages
- 10
Hello Folks,
I?ve owned a 1993 Sear GAMEFISHER 9.9 hp outboard since brand new, out of the box from Sears. I would like to share a few of my experiences with you and I hope you get some value out of this.
1993 Sears Gamefisher 9.9 HP Outboard Motor
MODEL NO. 225.581987
20? LEG (long shaft)
Wrong Spark Plug Gap Information- This caused me grief and confusion for years?until Al Gore invented the Internet!
Sear Owner?s Manual on page 20, states .040 inches for spark plug gap, also see Figure 27!! Note: Page 3 does state .030.
Champion spark plug manufacturer states for L87YC .030 inches for spark plug gap.
Force Repair manual 9-15 hp for engines up to 1992 (the 1993 is the same as a 1992)?states .030 inches. I use .030 now.
At .040, as you all know, will cause poor starting, poor performance and just look at the spark?it?s weak and red. Over the last ten years I spent a small fortune on ?bad or fouled? spark plugs!
Force Shop Repair Manual
I recently bought this 260 plus page, deeply illustrated, manual online, on CD for $10.00 bucks. I?ve seen this manual on eBay for $2 bucks. It?s the best manual I seen on this engine so far and well worth it, if you do you own repairs. Just make sure you have the correct GAMEFISHER- NOT TED WILLIAMS?s versions, etc.
History: Force Outboard, manufacturer of the Sears Gamefisher. Later bought out by Chrysler, then, bought out by Mercury Marine- the best I can figure? some Quicksilver ( Merc) parts are the same or eqvalent.
Problem Starting Engine- Engine would not start per starting instructions on front of engine cover. Didn?t matter if the engine was cold or hot, choke on or off, engine primer one push or several. Could only start engine with starting fluid. Once engine started it ran perfect.
Problem was resolved by taking off the engine primer bulb, located inside the primer rubber boot, mounted in front of the outboard, I found the clear plastic bulb was torn open in several places, thus not allowing the pressure to push gas into the intake from the carburetor. Refer to illustrated parts catalog page 36 for part numbers. Any part number which starts with an, F is a general a good number.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...Parts/Model-225581997/0247/1305320?pathTaken=
Found a similar primmer bulb (for weed whackers and chain saws) in the garden tools section at Lowe?s. I paid $9 dollars for a package that included 3 sizes. None fit, so I used silicone sealant and stuck the mid-size, half moon shaped primer bulb onto the plastic primer assembly. The primer assembly is available as a ?special? order, through Sears Parts Direct, or other online outboard stores. Cost is $17-$23 dollars for new complete primer. Boot is extra. Shipping is extra. Now, the engine starts per starting instructions, right up.
Inline Fuel Primer Bulb Problems
Besides the obvious leaks around the bulb ends, one day my motor was running fine when I heard the RPM?s slowly go up and then the motor stopped. I primed the fuel hose bulb and the engine fired right up, then the same thing happened again. I realized I could keep the engine running if I pumped the inline bulb every few seconds. It turned out, the check valve inside the bulb can get flipped over and not work correctly. The best thing to do is buy another. Besides the high priced boating stores, I buy stuff like this at places like Wal-Mart and Advanced Auto?of all places! I replace this thing every 2 years. Also, check the O rings around the fuel couplings. There?s a good write up on this site, somewheres.
Additional information:
I was on the ICW with the engine about half throttle when the RPMs suddenly went through the roof and the boat coasted to a stop. I put the engine in neutral, and found an empty 5 pound plastic ice bag wrapped around the prop. There is way too much plastic in the water these days?and it?s NOT always a shear pin! The clutch inside the lower unit worked as designed. Once the bag was removed, all worked fine.
Also, I have never had to replace a shear pin. Lucky I guess.
Over Heating and Water Pump
I replace the water pump rubber rotor, which by the way was in perfect shape after 15 years of usage. Bad guess?The real problem was the area around the thermostat. It was plugged up with salt.
Later another over heating problem turned out to be the rubber seal near the rear of the engine got all gummed up and swelled the water outlet port closed.
Blockage (PLASTIC BAGS) around the water pump, above the prop intake?this has caused my 9.9 hp to over heat and stop running completely! I must say, this engine can take some serious, unintentional abuse and still work after 17 years.
John
I?ve owned a 1993 Sear GAMEFISHER 9.9 hp outboard since brand new, out of the box from Sears. I would like to share a few of my experiences with you and I hope you get some value out of this.
1993 Sears Gamefisher 9.9 HP Outboard Motor
MODEL NO. 225.581987
20? LEG (long shaft)
Wrong Spark Plug Gap Information- This caused me grief and confusion for years?until Al Gore invented the Internet!
Sear Owner?s Manual on page 20, states .040 inches for spark plug gap, also see Figure 27!! Note: Page 3 does state .030.
Champion spark plug manufacturer states for L87YC .030 inches for spark plug gap.
Force Repair manual 9-15 hp for engines up to 1992 (the 1993 is the same as a 1992)?states .030 inches. I use .030 now.
At .040, as you all know, will cause poor starting, poor performance and just look at the spark?it?s weak and red. Over the last ten years I spent a small fortune on ?bad or fouled? spark plugs!
Force Shop Repair Manual
I recently bought this 260 plus page, deeply illustrated, manual online, on CD for $10.00 bucks. I?ve seen this manual on eBay for $2 bucks. It?s the best manual I seen on this engine so far and well worth it, if you do you own repairs. Just make sure you have the correct GAMEFISHER- NOT TED WILLIAMS?s versions, etc.
History: Force Outboard, manufacturer of the Sears Gamefisher. Later bought out by Chrysler, then, bought out by Mercury Marine- the best I can figure? some Quicksilver ( Merc) parts are the same or eqvalent.
Problem Starting Engine- Engine would not start per starting instructions on front of engine cover. Didn?t matter if the engine was cold or hot, choke on or off, engine primer one push or several. Could only start engine with starting fluid. Once engine started it ran perfect.
Problem was resolved by taking off the engine primer bulb, located inside the primer rubber boot, mounted in front of the outboard, I found the clear plastic bulb was torn open in several places, thus not allowing the pressure to push gas into the intake from the carburetor. Refer to illustrated parts catalog page 36 for part numbers. Any part number which starts with an, F is a general a good number.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...Parts/Model-225581997/0247/1305320?pathTaken=
Found a similar primmer bulb (for weed whackers and chain saws) in the garden tools section at Lowe?s. I paid $9 dollars for a package that included 3 sizes. None fit, so I used silicone sealant and stuck the mid-size, half moon shaped primer bulb onto the plastic primer assembly. The primer assembly is available as a ?special? order, through Sears Parts Direct, or other online outboard stores. Cost is $17-$23 dollars for new complete primer. Boot is extra. Shipping is extra. Now, the engine starts per starting instructions, right up.
Inline Fuel Primer Bulb Problems
Besides the obvious leaks around the bulb ends, one day my motor was running fine when I heard the RPM?s slowly go up and then the motor stopped. I primed the fuel hose bulb and the engine fired right up, then the same thing happened again. I realized I could keep the engine running if I pumped the inline bulb every few seconds. It turned out, the check valve inside the bulb can get flipped over and not work correctly. The best thing to do is buy another. Besides the high priced boating stores, I buy stuff like this at places like Wal-Mart and Advanced Auto?of all places! I replace this thing every 2 years. Also, check the O rings around the fuel couplings. There?s a good write up on this site, somewheres.
Additional information:
I was on the ICW with the engine about half throttle when the RPMs suddenly went through the roof and the boat coasted to a stop. I put the engine in neutral, and found an empty 5 pound plastic ice bag wrapped around the prop. There is way too much plastic in the water these days?and it?s NOT always a shear pin! The clutch inside the lower unit worked as designed. Once the bag was removed, all worked fine.
Also, I have never had to replace a shear pin. Lucky I guess.
Over Heating and Water Pump
I replace the water pump rubber rotor, which by the way was in perfect shape after 15 years of usage. Bad guess?The real problem was the area around the thermostat. It was plugged up with salt.
Later another over heating problem turned out to be the rubber seal near the rear of the engine got all gummed up and swelled the water outlet port closed.
Blockage (PLASTIC BAGS) around the water pump, above the prop intake?this has caused my 9.9 hp to over heat and stop running completely! I must say, this engine can take some serious, unintentional abuse and still work after 17 years.
John