Re: 87 ebbtide 140 v4, need some transom help...I think
You should ask a Mod to condense your thread(s) down to just 1. Having 2 places w/ the same question, can get confusing as you get advice, ask followup questions, and particularly for anyone that finds 1 but not the other later......
Hull distortion is a problem if your hull has any flex in it at all w/ the cap removed. If it moves, or sags even slightly, it becomes difficult to reinstall the cap. Worse it affects the performance of the hull if it sags and puts a hook or twist into the hull.
Remotely via the internet & thru limited pix, it would be difficult to know absolutely w/ out question yes or no, so the fall back answer tends to be: YES, your hull needs additional support when you remove structural elements. Any or all of these
Deck, transom, stringers or cap....
If you wish to put thru holes in your boat, & use threaded rod, you can. Depending on the exact shape & length of your hull, 2 rods may or may not be enough. As the sides of the boat attempt to sag away from each other after cap removal, the bottom of the hull can also distort, so you want to be sure the underside has sufficient support as well.
Since you have a bunk trailer, building a better cradle around the existing trailer is an option some have used. Many prefer to build a cradle that puts the boat lower to the ground & easier to get in & out of and maneuver around the garage/yard. Others have removed the axle assembly & added casters to the trailer to achieve the same result.
If you don't need to address the lower hull areas or make any repairs & re-shoot gelcoat or paint the bottom of the hull, it's often less work to improve the support via the trailer then to build a cradle..............
My 15' (actually slightly under) Glastron has an incredibly lightweight & flimsy hull. Once the cap is off, I won't be surprised if I need lots of lower hull support, and 4 or 5 cross braces to keep the hull width correct for the cap to fit.
My brace plan is to use correctly cut lengths of 1X3's w/ a flatwasher & screw thru a rubrail screw hole (no extra holes thru the hull). If I need to remove 1 to work on the deck or transom (wood-free stringers so I don't have to replace them), I can take 1 brace down temporarily. I have taken LOTS & LOTS of pix & measurements to keep the hull spaced correctly while I work.
If your boat has consoles, make sure to crossbrace them before you lift the cap, and if possible remove the windshield. Lots of weight & not a lot of structure to support the consoles & windshield when you pull the cap............
Read thru some of the larger (#of posts) threads, you'll see lots of ways to support your hull, consoles, & cap...
Welcome back to the iboats dry dock.
oops, while I was here posting, Jig & Frisco posted in your
other thread, quoted here:
I have a 87 ebbtide where I am planing to replace stringers and transom. The removing of the top from the hull has me concerned though. I've read where people talk of the hull expanding out upon removal of top and to combat this I thought I would make a two x four sandwich running two 3/8 threaded rod between the sides of the boat. This would require four small holes to be drilled at the rub rail area, but that could be easily patched. Is this a good idea? Or is this being overly concerned? Is it really a big problem?
EDIT: In the resto forum would be the best place for this, where you started the other thread I linked above, for you to get the most help...........