Building a deck in NW WI - need some tips

[rogerwa]

I am rebuilding a deck off my cabin in WI and am trying to determine how to set my deck posts. The posts themselves only need to raise the deck level my be 1 foot to 2 feet off the ground. The current posts, from what i can tell, are only dug into the ground maybe 2.5 -3 ft with no concrete or anything.

I have read alot about this and am seeing conflicting guidance - The most common is to sink the post below the frost line and to fill the hole around the post with concrete. I have also heard that this will rot the post. For those in the northland, what would be the recommended method for setting these posts. I want to do it right, but don't really want to overkill it either. My friend says I should use sonotubes. I have also seen concrete footings with a steel bracket set in to the concrete which then takes the post.

Also, on a simpler question, what is the best fastener to use - nails or screws. Are nails used simply because they are cheaper? whenever I do this kind of stuff I use screws - am I missing something?

 

[rbh]

Use preassure treated wood Generally around here people dig down 3 feet and pour a concrete base with a bit of rebar and put in a galvinized saddle for the post. Yup on the screws, get the painted ones. and if you are doing the deck in 1x4+- remember to keep a screw width between the boards for expanssion/contraction and water removal.

 

[WIMUSKY]

Footings. Something like this to keep the posts off the ground........... x2 on screws.......

http://greatrailing.com/blog/a-footi...tined-to-fail/

 

[MTboatguy]

X3 on the screws, they are a bit more expensive, but last a lot longer than the nails, the one thing about northern climates, is the expansion/contraction cycles will pop nails in one season.

 

[Tim Frank]

My only 3 serious tips on deck building:

1) Sink your post holes below the frost line.
2) Fill the holes to grade and use a small length of sonotube for the external/above grade concrete. Sonotube lined holes are way more susceptible to frost-heave. Use the purpose built saddles to top the concrete and attach the posts. They have a 6-8 inch length of rebar that inserts into the wet concrete.
3) Double up every 2nd or 3rd joist...with a 1" - 3/4" gap. You can then make decking joints on the doubled joists so that you are at least 1"+ from the end which will minimise splitting and extend the deck board life.