Question for those of you running snow plows?

[MTboatguy]

I am thinking about changing my plow to a rubber cutting edge, and wondered if anyone that runs a plow on here has tried this, I am plowing close to 2 miles of gravel road, rough gravel road, and of course with the metal cutting edge when you hit a rock, it will jar you, as well as break things, I am just wondering if the rubber cutting edge would cut down on wear and tear and less jarring when you hit something. I have no experience with these new cutting edges at all. My current cutting edge is 3/4 in steel.

 

[ihearth2o]

If your blade is tripping a lot, I would recommend adjusting the shoe height. Rubber edges and gravel drives really don't go well together. You will be going through them like crazy plus they don't really cut into the snow as well as steel so it won't be as clean of a pass.

 

[MTboatguy]

If your blade is tripping a lot, I would recommend adjusting the shoe height. Rubber edges and gravel drives really don't go well together. You will be going through them like crazy plus they don't really cut into the snow as well as steel so it won't be as clean of a pass.

Currently, the plow shoes are adjusted so the blade rides just about an inch and a half off the road surface, so I think I have it adjusted correctly, but the local timber company graded our road this year and it came out pretty rough and they gouged a lot of the larger base rocks up to the surface, and it would be a real pain to try and rent a grader to try and get it back in some type of shape.

 

[kmarine]

I recommend checking with a friend or neighbor and see if they have a tractor with a drag plow blade to level the bad spots at slow speed. This may also help with how bumpy your road is. Snowplow blade skis don't work very well on heavy crowned roads. This is why the tractor drag plow can level off the high spots and fill in the ruts. That catch the truck blade

 

[Bob_VT]

Change the plow angle. Make sure you are using top hole of the 3 to lean the plow back slightly. The further forward it is the more it digs and grabs. It really makes a difference as the plow angle is changed. The blade leaned back is the least aggressive for digging in.

I tried the rubber edges and I was not happy. Tried then in the Army and when I was a civilian road commissioner and they wore out too fast and provided NO advantage. For commercial/municipal plowing the BEST wear solution was a carbide edge with a steel overlay edge and carbide shoes too. Carbides are BIG bucks but will never wear out for a homeowner.

Okay, my turn.... I broke a torsion bar on the drivers side of my 2500 so I am out of commission until replaced. My neighbor plowed my driveway with his 1 ton and he blew a sparkplug out of his head........ Early season troubles.

 

[Bondo]

Currently, the plow shoes are adjusted so the blade rides just about an inch and a half off the road surface, so I think I have it adjusted correctly, but the local timber company graded our road this year and it came out pretty rough and they gouged a lot of the larger base rocks up to the surface, and it would be a real pain to try and rent a grader to try and get it back in some type of shape.

Ayuh,.... That means the road toppin' is Gone, it shoulda been capped, rather than just graded,....

You can still get some more time out of it though,....

Find yerself a big I beam, say something like a 14" or 16" "W" I beam, by 8' or 10' long, 'n a piece of chain link fence,....
On the beam, cut 4 holes in each end in each flange near the ends,....(when the bottom flange wears out, flip the beam, 'n use the other side)
With those holes, attach a length of tow chain, say 20' long,...
In the 2 holes in the opposite flange, add 2 short lengths of chain, 'n attach the chain link fence to the beam,....
By attachin' the long tow chain to yer trailer hitch, with a cat's azz knot, you can angle the "Blade" to pull in the chowder off the edges of the road towards the center,....
Or, the chain can be set to angle the beam outward if ya care to, or it can be towed squarely to the truck, by movin' the cat's azz,...
The beam will act as a grader, regradin' the road, fillin' in the potholes with the chowder knocked up,....
The chain link fence, behind the beam, levels it all out,...

The 1st time ya use it, it'll probably take 4 or more passes to see the results ya want,...
After that, a couple passes a month will keep it that way,...

 

[ihearth2o]

The simplest solution might just be to not plow at all. Let the snow itself level out the driveway and let it freeze. Lay some sand over the entire drive for some traction. Then whenever it snows, use your plow as you normally would with the base layer of frozen snow underneath. I use a similar technique when stacking snow. I bump my blade up just a tad right when I get to the edge of the grass and push the blade of snow until my front tires touch the grass. Eventually, that snow will freeze and I don't have to worry about tearing up lawns anymore.

 

[rbh]

The only alternative to a steel cutting edge I can think of would be UHMW but it wears faster than steel, but snow does not stick to it, a few guys I know lined the inside of the plow, no more wear or snow sticking. (snowmobile skis are made out of it)

The only problem with letting snow build up as a driveway base is when it melts and turns to ice, over winter we build up 3-6 inches because the snow blower does not cut it down, so when it warms up out comes the tractor with the blade and I try and shave it down to almost the gravel.
And if you let it build up over winter prepare for break through/bust up come spring.

And plus 1 on the I beam as a towable grader (2 I beams in lead, one on a 45 degree to pull the gravel back onto the road and the other behind it to groom)

 

[MTboatguy]

There is no option to not plow, as rbh said, if we don't we get massive ice build up and if you lived on the road on the side of the mountain I do, you would be sliding instead of driving, one section of the road I live on, is about a 30-35% grade, that section with ice on it, is not fun, been there done that!



We have done the I-beam grade as well, but still a lot of larger base rocks and then with the freeze and thaw cycles there is always new ones popping up, the section of road I live on, never had a small gravel top layer!

 

[ihearth2o]

What do you think is left on your driveway when you run your shoes up 1 1/2"? That's frozen snow...whether it's 1 1/2" or 3 inches, it's still slippery. I'm not saying let it pile up indefinitely...just enough to get a base layer so that some of the low spots...or in your case the high spots...even out enough so your blade isn't constantly tripping, then plow as normal when it storms. As for the thaw, why would you need to plow if it's thawing? :noidea: Just lay down more sand. I used this technique for years when I used to plow for money. Customers always freak out at first that they've got this base layer of frozen snow on their driveway. Then when I explain why and that the sand will help with traction and that it's much cheaper than salting the entire drive every time I come out, they have an "Ah ha!" moment. That grade that you mention concerns me though. That might require the good old shovel and salt. I personally turn down paying gigs with grades that are sketchy. Can't pay me enough to assume that kinda liability.

 

[MTboatguy]

What do you think is left on your driveway when you run your shoes up 1 1/2"? That's frozen snow...whether it's 1 1/2" or 3 inches, it's still slippery. I'm not saying let it pile up indefinitely...just enough to get a base layer so that some of the low spots...or in your case the high spots...even out enough so your blade isn't constantly tripping, then plow as normal when it storms. As for the thaw, why would you need to plow if it's thawing? :noidea: Just lay down more sand.

Not quite that simple, but thanks, I got the answer to the question I asked and that was, rubber plow edge will be no benefit where I live. I have only lived here close to 20 years and am familiar with the unique nature of living beyond county road. Bottom line, no go on the rubber. I just wanted to know if anyone was using a rubber edge and how did it hold up.

 

[ihearth2o]

Seemed like you were looking for the easy fix...switch to rubber edge and cut down on the jarring. Was just following your lead. Anyways, happy plowing and stay safe.

 

[MTboatguy]

Seemed like you were looking for the easy fix...switch to rubber edge and cut down on the jarring. Was just following your lead. Anyways, happy plowing and stay safe.

There are no easy fixes when you live remotely like I do! LOL

 

[ihearth2o]

Tell me about it. Grew up as in inner city kid and then found myself in rural anywhere, USA. No 4wd vehicle, no snowblower, no work boots and no good take out! After a dozen or so years, I finally started getting the hang of it. LOL

 

[mla2ofus]

MT, I read about a guy w/ your problem and he split a piece of 1 1/2" black pipe, slipped it over the cutting edge and welded it to the edge. I think w/ 3 pieces of flat bar welded to the pipe and placed at each end and the middle and bolted w/ cutting edge bolts for easy changing it would work good.
Mike