Chain saw chain is past the point of no return or is it

[Bondo]

I am with you 100% Bondo. I touch up with a file every couple of tanks of gas. I will change chains and then grind later as soon as I notice a change in my chips. I will also take my rakers down a bit if I am cutting a lot of yellow poplar or pole sized maple. If I could buy 20 inch sprocket nose bars for a .058 chain and a new chain for 25 bucks I would buy 4 of them and save them for later. I don't know how many times I do my chains but I do know it is a lot before the teeth narrow to the point there is hardly any kerf.

Ayuh,.... I also keep sharpenin' 'em til the cutter tooth no long reaches fully across the kerf,... or if the teeth get bent up,....

I'm buyin' new chains for 'bout $15.00 each, 20" bar, 3/8" x .050"..... 'n Yes, from a Logger Supply Shop,....

 

[dingbat]

I used to have issues with "butter balling" (curved cuts). My BIL recommended going to a 28 degree cut when sharpening. I've been doing it and have had much better cuts with my older chains. Stihl with a 24" bar cutting black oak most of the time.

Which angle did you change? The cutting angle or the filing angle?

 

[64osby]

Which angle did you change? The cutting angle or the filing angle?

The angle of the sharpening saw is set at 28 degrees when sharpening the chain. The teeth then have more angle on them then when they were new