tips on negotiating the price of a new car

nwcove

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May 16, 2011
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ive never owned a new car, but the time has come ( maybe) to purchase a fuel miser. im seriously looking at a 2015 nissan micra, base model....$9998 + freight, sales tax, tire tax yada yada. it kills me to pay freight! its not like i special ordered a car lol. any tips from wise ones on how to negotiate with car dealers??? thanks in advance!
 

MTboatguy

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I don't negotiate anymore, I simply look up what I want and look at the dealers offering the best prices, then I buy from them.
 

nwcove

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I don't negotiate anymore, I simply look up what I want and look at the dealers offering the best prices, then I buy from them.

im doing that, but the way this seems to be going is the dealers subtract from "this" but add to " that". so it seems to add up the same in the end. one tip a salesman whispered to me was.....come in at the end of the month....sales quotas need to be met for bonuses. i took that as a possible chance to get a car at cost?
 

PatinIdaho

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Oct 7, 2014
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Never pay a dealer "Doc Fee" that's just you paying for them to type your info into a computer. Free money for them!
Never pay the interest rate they first show you. Example: If they hit you for 10% interest that means the bank offered the loan for say 8% thus leaving 2% the dealer gets back from the bank. More free money for them! That's called Back end money
Never pay a Dealer Prep Fee. Again free money for them.
Be vary careful with Extended warranty. The Dealer gets a cut of the cost for selling it to you and may be total crap but if the dealer gets a big cash back from them they don't care.
Ask about Dealer cash. That's the auto maker offering cash to the dealer for just selling a car and if there is 2K dealer cash that can lower the price also.
Ask about incentives that can also lower the price.

There is probably more but I can't think of any now. Yeah I WAS a car salesmen .
.
 

rogerwa

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I always bring my own financing. They will usually work to beat it. Also separate the negotiation of the purchase price of the car and trade in value if you have one. They will work to blend the two. If they dont give me what I want on the trade, I will walk and tell them I will sell it myself and then maybe come back. Be ready to walk if the terms are not right. This means you need to know the terms you can live with - Purchase price, Trade in price, and interest rate. Before I go in I create a spreadsheet with all the costs - at least estimated so I know where I will be. This includes, license fees, tax, down payment, etc. If you don't know the specifics of the deal you won't be able to ensure the deal they write up is what you agreed to.

For purchase price, retrieve quotes from several different dealers via e-mail or through the Mfg portal. Look into deals from Costco if you are a member (they have a car purchasing service - Sams probably does as well) - you will probably get the best price using that route.
 

rbh

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Never bought a new vehicle either, I just could not see me drive off the lot and see 20%+- automaticaly gone!

One of the things I hear thats is a bit of a scam is the huge price charged out for undercoating, yes we need it, but who does it is another story.
 

MTboatguy

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Cars.com and autotrader.com are normally pretty close to what they price cars at, I have a very good friend that owns the Ford dealership here locally, so getting cost is not a problem, when you start pushing to cut into the dealer hold backs, you are pushing the limits of what many dealers will do, the low cost leaders you see all year long, some below factory invoice are already cutting into those hold backs. As far as financing, make sure and check with your local banks, or if you are a member of a credit union in good standing, see what they will give you a loan for, I got a personal loan to buy my 5th wheel and the interest is at 1.75% I told them how much I needed and went and picked a check up made out to the person I bought the trailer from. One other thing to take into account, check your insurance rates on the vehicle you are looking at, also check with your insurance company, many of them these days are offering pretty good financing if you have your insurance with them. Some of the credit card companies also have programs for auto purchases, I know my Citi, Discover and my Costco card offers car deals with good financing. Make sure and check all avenues.

And remember, you are going to loose money on a new car purchase as RBH said, sometimes is really pays to look at dealer demos or used new cars that were sold and then traded back in often times you will get far more car with options at quite a discount, if it is your first new car, then throw that out the window, but remember it can save you a lot of money to look at a slightly used car. Again, as RBH stated, many of the little things we think we need or we know we need can be purchase much less expensive at after market places, I know our local Rhino Liner Dealer will undercoat any car or truck on the market for about $150.00, which is far less expensive than any of the dealers will.

One other thing to remember, dealers rarely own those vehicle that they have on the lot, they pay flooring(interest) every single month on those cars, some of them if they sit on them for a while, they actually end up loosing money of them, no matter how much they sell them for, often times the only money they make on cars is the year end hold backs they get from the manufactures, which these days is pretty small. Also, they have to pay a part of the advertising that you see the manufactures doing, IE: If Toyota is running and ad and you see your local dealers name at the end of the piece, it means they paid a co-op fee to the manufacture for that ad. I am not saying don't negotiate for the best deal you can get, but also don't be so stubborn, you don't let them make any money, they got to make something somewhere or they are no longer in business. Also be willing to patronize their service facilities if they meet your expectations, when you are talking to the salesman, make sure and have him introduce you to the Service Manager and Parts Manager, look at the shop, see how they do business, if they get to know you, it goes a long ways to having a great relationship and they do want you to come back.
 
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southkogs

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I've only bought 2 cars from dealers, but the two things I knew going in were 1) the car I wanted and what was a reasonable price OVER THE CURB for the car. I want to negotiate "all in" and find the back end costs before I commit: and 2) that I was willing to walk away if I couldn't get the deal I wanted.

I don't care for haggling, and if I like the dealer I really don't mind them making money on the deal. I just don't wanna' get hosed :)
 

tpenfield

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My advise, in addition to what has already been mentioned is to understand the dealer cost and the market demand for the car. If the demand is high, then the price you will be able to negotiate will be fairly high. If the demand is low, then you can hold them closer to the dealer cost.

Keep in mind that there is typically not a lot of negotiation room on the lower priced cars.

By comparison, I bought a 2007 Civic in the dead of winter. . . got it for a few hundred below dealer invoice :thumb: . About a year later, I bought a 2009 Toyota Corolla during the gas price crunch . . . paid near MSRP. :facepalm:

I understand the the Micra is a new model for Canada in 2015, so maybe demand might be high as is the case with many new introductions. You can generally tell by how many are on the lot.
 

Scott Danforth

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I agree with above, also buying the prior years model if its still on the lot (heavy incentives)

I hate buying new. the hit in depreciation is huge. I really like the 2-3 year old lease returns.

that being stated, here is what we did this last spring for the Admiral:

we used cars.com, found the lowest internet rate within 400 miles, went to the local dealer, told them to beat the lowest rate by $500 and the sale is theirs. they didnt have the color the Admiral wanted in stock, however they obtained one within 2 days. And the smiling Admiral drove off in it shortly after.
 

southkogs

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... one log I'll toss on the fire is relating to buying a new car for gas mileage sake:

We had to replace a minivan about 5 years ago. At 300k miles, our little Dodge had done us very well and stuff was starting to let go left and right. I looked high and low at minivans from Dodge, Toyota and Nissan. When it came down to it, the best buy I could find on a used minivan with about 60k miles was about $18k.

I wanted a minivan for the mileage, but I have owned full sized vans in the past so I took a quick peek. A 2 year old Ford Econoline with 30k miles ... I could (and did) get it over the curb for $12k. Calculate the gas mileage difference between the two vehicles all you want, but over the life of the vehicles, the full size with crumbier mileage is the cheaper to own and operate. I couldn't make up the difference in price with fuel savings (five years later averaging between 16 & 18 MPG, it still holds true.

That's the long route of suggesting: perhaps a car with slightly worse mileage but a much better price tag will do the trick for your goal of reducing cost.
 

bigdee

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Jul 27, 2006
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I never trade-in. I put a wholesale price on my old vehicle for a quick private sale and use that $$ as a down payment on a straight sale. Learned long ago from friends who were car dealers that trade-ins, no matter how good it sounded, were lost in the paperwork.
 

nwcove

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thanks for all the advice and thoughts guys. heres my math on the deal . bi-weekly cost $124 pmt + $8 increase in insurance=$132. current bi- weekly fuel cost with existing vehicle =$240. my "expected" bi-weekly fuel cost with the micra ( based solely on internet research!)=$90
is my thought process flawed in thinking that the fuel savings alone will cover the cost.....kinda like getting a new car ( and a $9 lunch once a week) for free??? :confused:
 

dingbat

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Having negotiated more than a couple of deals and attended more negotiating seminars in my career than I care to remember, I offer the following:
  • Do comprehensive research for reliable facts and figures. Never use information that could be questioned or proven inaccurate.
  • Define your goals. Never lose sight of the target – what should be gained from the negotiation
  • Negotiate only with dealer's representatives who are empowered to make concessions
  • leave plenty of room to maneuver. The greater the initial demands, the greater the probability for success
  • Don’t be afraid to be silent. Silence can be an effective negotiating tool. If the dealer fears he is losing the business, he may talk himself into offering more and better concessions than expected.
  • Call a recess or lunch break if negotiations break down.
  • Withhold something for concession in return for a point the dealer is willing to concede.
Always be fair. The dealer is entitled to a reasonable profit – one that allows him to stay in business for the long-run.
 

southkogs

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thanks for all the advice and thoughts guys. heres my math on the deal . bi-weekly cost $124 pmt + $8 increase in insurance=$132. current bi- weekly fuel cost with existing vehicle =$240. my "expected" bi-weekly fuel cost with the micra ( based solely on internet research!)=$90
is my thought process flawed in thinking that the fuel savings alone will cover the cost.....kinda like getting a new car ( and a $9 lunch once a week) for free??? :confused:

In my example (and it's just an example, not Holy Writ by a long shot) I was considering several things: principle and interest over a 60 month note. Fuel and maintenance over the same period (estimated) and a wild guess on repairs. I had a buddy who went from a Chevy Suburban to a Toyota Prius. The math worked out in spades even considering the higher monthly payments.

I don't look at things in week to week costs as much as I try to look at them longer term.
 

four winns 214

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Oct 25, 2008
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I didn't read all of the above posts closely so this may be a repeat, but my technique is to make the dealer an "out the door" offer with no trade. Also, remember it is strictly a business transaction. The salesman will try to befriend you, show you pictures of kids, dogs and tell how he's not going to make any money on your deal. Hogwash.
 

MTboatguy

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In the area I live, they have stopped paying the salesmen commission, they are all strictly on salary with quarterly bonuses, So dealing with what they now call consultants is really pretty easy. I have helped out at my buddies dealership when he is short handed and it is a completely different environment that what it used to be, of course they still have target numbers for units sold, but the salesmen and customers are a lot more relaxed than in the days of commission.
 

nwcove

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May 16, 2011
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bought the car last night, got a bunch more for my 2wd ranger than i could have imagined on a trade in. so it worked out well i think. my initial fuel mileage calculations seem out to lunch tho? the dealer filled it up while i was doing the paperwork, i drove 157 kms, topped it up on my way home from work tonight, $8.56 ( 6.58 liters). 4.2 L/100 kms ?
 

Gyrene

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Mar 28, 2014
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I don't negotiate anymore, I simply look up what I want and look at the dealers offering the best prices, then I buy from them.


Same here. I decided on make, model and options I wanted, then emailed all dealers in wide area stating model and options I wanted and to give me a price.
Many said I would have to come in and talk - I replied if they wouldn't give a price, they would never see me. Most finally gave a price - I printed out the lowest one, went there and bought.
There was a range of about $2,000 low - to high on prices I got.
 
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