Shower drain leak repair.

[scipper77]

My stand up shower has now for the second time started to leak. It is the type with a flange on top and a gasket and nut under the basin. What happens is that the nut on the bottom works it's way loose due to the small amount of flex in the fiberglass basin. When I bought my home it was leaking so I just tightened up the nut and repaired the drywall in the ceiling. That lasted four years until this past week. This time around I am not patching the cieling until I figure out "a good way" to keep the nut from backing off.

I have sealed the flange with plumbers putty (after properly prepping the area) and right now the drain is leak free. Can I apply some silicone to the threads to act as a thread lock? I am hesitant to use silicone for a seal because if it ever leaks again it will be a nightmare to remove the silicone or cut and glue a new drain in such a tight space.

Hopefully there are some qualified plumbers here that can help out or I will have to go join a plumbing forum.

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

You have already done the right thing using the plumbers putty under the flange. Yes you can use silicone on the threads, I suggest a good bead between your nut and the bottom of the shower also. Biggest thing is to make sure it is tightened properly, get another person to hold the top while you tighten the nut. The other thing is try and brace on both sides of the drain against the shower bottom with 2x4s screwed into your joists so it doesn't flex anymore. Good luck.

 

[windy5849]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

Are there enough threads showing to add a second nut to lock against the first one? Or maybe a hose clamp under the nut if the drain pipe can't be removed to add the second nut.

 

[foodfisher]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

Plumbers putty is best used "warm". It will ooze out better that way. Cold, it will ooze each time you tighten the nut untill you tire and say good enough. Then after the fact it will compress some more and voila, you've got a leak. I would properly prep and use sillycone because of the flexing of the fglass unit. Oozing will hold the nut, compress tighter and flex all in one. JMHO

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

Are there enough threads showing to add a second nut to lock against the first one? .

^^^^+1

 

[scipper77]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

You have already done the right thing using the plumbers putty under the flange. Yes you can use silicone on the threads, I suggest a good bead between your nut and the bottom of the shower also. Biggest thing is to make sure it is tightened properly, get another person to hold the top while you tighten the nut. The other thing is try and brace on both sides of the drain against the shower bottom with 2x4s screwed into your joists so it doesn't flex anymore. Good luck.

I don't think I am going to brace things any more than they are. I'm a bit concerned with creating a crack at the location of the brace. It doesn't flex much now and I'm worried about creating a problem worse than the one I have now.

Are there enough threads showing to add a second nut to lock against the first one? Or maybe a hose clamp under the nut if the drain pipe can't be removed to add the second nut.

There is no way to double nut as the drain drops in from above and is then glued to the trap below. Otherwise I would try that. A hose clamp is a very interesting idea. I will likely add one even if it doesn't work. A little overkill shouldn't hurt anything.

Plumbers putty is best used "warm". It will ooze out better that way. Cold, it will ooze each time you tighten the nut untill you tire and say good enough. Then after the fact it will compress some more and voila, you've got a leak. I would properly prep and use sillycone because of the flexing of the fglass unit. Oozing will hold the nut, compress tighter and flex all in one. JMHO

I have noticed that as the shower is used a little bit more putty has squeezed out of the flange presumably from the warm water heating the putty. I will retighten the nut a few more times before I even think about patching the cieling. I just got a little strap wrench that I think will do the trick as my big channel locks are not working out in such a tight space. I think I an going to use a little silicone or maybe even loc-tite on the threads below, just enough to add resistance to the nut backing out. I don't want to add silicone as a seal. If I went that rout I would use something permanant like 5200.

 

[windy5849]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

Removing any clamps on the drain pipe may allow it to move up and down with the shower base and prevent the nut from loosening.My basement shower has the drain pipe embedded in concrete and the drain itself has a rubber gasket inside that allows the drain pipe to slide up or down as the base flexes.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

.... What happens is that the nut on the bottom works it's way loose due to the small amount of flex in the fiberglass basin.

How much access do you have to the underside of the floor pan?
Proper installation of these should include a doughnut of concrete surrounding the drain and supporting the pan.

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

How much access do you have to the underside of the floor pan?
Proper installation of these should include a doughnut of concrete surrounding the drain and supporting the pan.

This is why I suggested blocking underneath. Not all shower inclosures require concrete for proper install, but most recommend atleast blocking, and since this one is already installed, blocking would have to be done from underneath where I am assuming his drywall damage is. He doesn't seem to like that idea though. ;/

 

[Fishing Dude too]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

Put some Teflon tape on the threads it will hold the nut tight

 

[greenbush future]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

I think until you can secure the flexing floor area, you will continue chasing this issue. I like the idea of supporting the floor to stop the movement, then pipe dope it good and re tighten after heat has been applied via hot water running. Many times when first installed, they are not supported well because they were installed wrong. I had a fiberglass tub that did the same thing.

 

[scipper77]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

This is why I suggested blocking underneath. Not all shower inclosures require concrete for proper install, but most recommend atleast blocking, and since this one is already installed, blocking would have to be done from underneath where I am assuming his drywall damage is. He doesn't seem to like that idea though. ;/

It's not that i dont like the idea specifically. There is a large amount of the sub floor cut out around the drain area. It would be difficult to pull off a decent structural brace with the awkward space I have to work with. I kind of feel like if it took 4 years for the joint to fail last time, securing the nut even a little bit better should make a big difference.

 

[bigdee]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

Is it possible to gain enough access to add concrete? You could mix up a small batch of Sacrete and trowel or hand pack it through the sub-floor opening.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

Expanding foam?

 

[bigdee]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

Expanding foam?

NO!!! That stuff will distort/warp the shower bottom when it expands

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

NO!!! That stuff will distort/warp the shower bottom when it expands

Build it up carefully and don't overfill.

 

[Fishing Dude too]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

use single expanding foam if warp is a concern

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

I have used 3M 5200 on a few drain nuts that started to come loose over time. I would probably recommend 4200 if you intend to pull it apart in the future.

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

It's not that i dont like the idea specifically. There is a large amount of the sub floor cut out around the drain area. It would be difficult to pull off a decent structural brace with the awkward space I have to work with. I kind of feel like if it took 4 years for the joint to fail last time, securing the nut even a little bit better should make a big difference.

Yeah, didn't say it would be easy. You might even have to cut out a little more subfloor to achieve a good bracing. Might even have to use some cedar shims after bracing is installed because the shower pans are usually not level anyway. Spraying foam in there will not help as all it will do is expand out the opening in the subfloor you already have not giving much support to the shower pan itself.

If this is a very old shower enclosure, it might be time for an upgrade or a new one.

Now what you don't want to here is the proper way to assure it will never happen again is, remove the drywall around the shower enclosure flang, remove plumbing, remove shower enclosure, reinstall shower enclosure bedded in concrete or proper blocking and then re-install plumbing properly and patch/finish drywall and paint. A lot more work but its the proper way.

Adding concrete after the fact doesn't work because it has to be humped up then the enclosure pressed down over it to get a good structural bond and not slack off.

 

[scipper77]

Re: Shower drain leak repair.

Well I think my best bet would be to cut the drain and get a different drain that screws in from the top. For the mean time I am probably going to make the little hole into a really big hole and tighten the fitting much more than I was able to do the last time I repaired this leak. I will also use something to seal the threads (silicone or loc-tite). I'm frankly more concerned with doing a good job matching the stippling on the ceiling when I patch the drywall.