GE Profile Oven Element - Update

[QC]

My oven no workee. Well it works, it just doesn't heat up . . . I was hoping it was the element and understood that you should remove it, and test for resistance. I don't have a spec, and can't find it. The best I can tell I am getting approximately 16.5 OHMs. I read online that most were around 20. Does low = bad? Or must it be zero to be the real culprit?

Oh, I believe this is the element: WB44T10043

Looks like it, but I also can't easily get my model number. The decal inside the Microwave is faded and unreadable.

 

[Fishing Dude too]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

That would be about a 300w heater more or less I would check the power to it to make sure it is getting power.

 

[QC]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Thanks. I'll check that. To confirm though, is 16.5 OHM resistance indicative of a "good" element?

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Hey QC........ about 8 years ago in the height of a winter storm my oven died ............. what the cause turned out to be was one leg of the 220 circuit and that was actuslly due to one leg of the 220 power feed coming into the house suffering a break.

My advice start at the beginning and check the power to the oven at the source.......

If you oven has upper and lower elements you can reverse them and test the elements at LOW heat. If the element is good .....it will heat up.

Ohms is half the equation and if you have an ohm reading then you do not have a break inside the element........ thus the element should work.

 

[QC]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Thanks. There were some weird readings on my "Smart Meter" at the street too, so maybe you're onto something.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Go to your electrical box and check both legs of the 220.............. and or check the 220 one leg at a time at the stove 110 each leg because you have 2 hots and one neutral.

 

[bigdee]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

That would be a GOOD 3500 watt element at 240vac. Your problem is something else.

 

[Fishing Dude too]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

That would be a GOOD 3500 watt element at 240vac. Your problem is something else.

Your right forgot use to 480 elements

 

[QC]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Ok, so now I have 110 volts at the leads when I turn on the Broiler (upper element) and I have resistance of 16.5 OHMs through the Element which indicates good. So I am going back together.

I did try a reset by leaving power off for over 30 seconds prior to anything here, but did not test other than with the hotness gauge (hand). It was off at the breaker while I first messed with the removing the element so maybe it needed longer to reset, btu I can't understand why I woudl have good voltage (110) at the element, and resistance and not get fire in the hole . . . . So back together, lost a flippin' screw, and I'll test with the hotness gauge again :facepalm:

 

[bigdee]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Ok, so now I have 110 volts at the leads when I turn on the Broiler (upper element) and I have resistance of 16.5 OHMs through the Element which indicates good. So I am going back together.

I did try a reset by leaving power off for over 30 seconds prior to anything here, but did not test other than with the hotness gauge (hand). It was off at the breaker while I first messed with the removing the element so maybe it needed longer to reset, btu I can't understand why I woudl have good voltage (110) at the element, and resistance and not get fire in the hole . . . . So back together, lost a flippin' screw, and I'll test with the hotness gauge again :facepalm:

Shoud be 220-240 across terminials on element not 110

 

[QC]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

I thought so too. Wouldn't I still get some heat with just 110 though? Stone cold now that I have reinstalled. After some more research I believe it is a GE JT965

 

[bigdee]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

I thought so too. Wouldn't I still get some heat with just 110 though? Stone cold now that I have reinstalled. After some more research I believe it is a GE JT965

yes it should get warm.....how are you measuring and with what? 110 volts is just a phrase from the old days...today's residential voltage should be 120/240.

 

[QC]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

DVM, multimeter thing. It works properly at all outlets, DC batteries etc. Red on one lead and black on the other lead, out of the back of the oven, element was not attached then. Broil on. I have not tested the bake, but no heat there either. Much harder to get to.

I saw 110ish, 120 at walls. Hard to get to 240 supply to Oven at this point. Can check other 240 outlets though.

I have access to the joint Microwave/Oven control panel now too. Hard for me to read the wiring diagram that I found, but I am sure I could fumble through that.

 

[bigdee]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

DVM, element was not attached then. Broil on.
.

Connect leads to element and then check for voltage across terminals.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

How about checking power right at the breaker in the panel box.
Any chance you have fuses and one is blown?

I meant fuses in your service panel....not the stove itself....but you don't mention having checked the stove fuses, have you?

 

[QC]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

OK, so I pulled the element out again. Left leads attached and turned on Broil to Hi. DVM on leads. Looks like 117 Volts, but the damnedest thing is . . . it flippin' works now . . . Only thing I have done is checked Voltage in the control panel, and uninstalled the element. And now it seems to work. Letting it cool, then reinstall and then who knows. Oh, and the bake element is starting to get warm now too. Go figure!

 

[hungupthespikes]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

So were you baking some California Brownies or Rum Buns last time it worked? :facepalm:

 

[QC]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Starting to think so ^^^^^ :facepalm:

OK, latest in this saga. Intermittent issue for sure. I put it back together and nuttin' zippo, nada. So I pulled it apart again and now when I turn on the Broil Hi I get 6.1 Volts. Off 0.001 . . . Can't get the Volts to where I saw them last, and I can't get any heat of course either.

 

[hungupthespikes]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Sounds like the feed wires to the oven. I'd start there and then a static check on the oven after you kill the breakers (2).
Found the Schematic yet? Sounds like your going to need one.
good hunting
huts

 

[bigdee]

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Re: GE Profile Oven Element

Starting to think so ^^^^^ :facepalm:

OK, latest in this saga. Intermittent issue for sure. I put it back together and nuttin' zippo, nada. So I pulled it apart again and now when I turn on the Broil Hi I get 6.1 Volts. Off 0.001 . . . Can't get the Volts to where I saw them last, and I can't get any heat of course either.

Lets take this one step at a time:
1. Check the breaker for 240 volts
2. If not 240, problem is most likely in panel or service entry
3. If 240 is present go back to oven
1. is this a wall oven or a oven/range
2. what is the age and model #
4. answer these and I will take you further

Just off the back of my head it seems like you may have a open leg in your panel or service entry. If this were to be the case you would get a backfeed voltage on the open leg that could vary from 0 to 117 volts depending on what and how many electrical appliances or devices were on. If this is a high end and newer electronic oven there could be issues with the oven itself.