- Joined
- Jul 23, 2011
- Messages
- 47,497
Not going to join another forum to post this, so here goes..... google will find it here. I dont have pictures of the process, however I will have covered it in detail that anyone with understanding of righty-tighty lefty-loosy will be able to follow
issue - 2000-2005 Hyundai Sonata fuel vent systems and slow fuel filling. plenty of threads on the Hyundai forums and you-tube, none actually completely address the problem. this affects many other models of Hyundai and Kia vehicles.
Symptoms - it becomes more and more difficult to fill the fuel tank, requiring a slower and slower fill until it nearly doesnt fill. Also, the check engine light (CEL) is lit.
Diagnosing the problem - pouring over countless forums and on-line solutions, the carbon canister appears to be an issue. there is even a Hyundai TSB. taking it to a dealer, and your faced with a really large bill (between $1100 and $1800). however in some instances, the problem is only partially fixed. However none of the on-line information that I found completely went thru the steps, or completely identified the cause.
Synopsis of issue - the carbon canister is a rectangular canister located under the left rear corner of the car on the left side. this is just below and behind the fuel fill. a screen mesh is supposed to keep the pellets contained. fuel and fuel vapor cause the charcoal pellets to swell enough, partially blocking vent flow. however the screen mesh also fails. that mesh fails between 90K and 100k miles on the car. when it fails, the little pellets decide to run rampant thru out the vent system like minions released while hopped up on mountain dew.
Items to purchase:
Carbon fuel vent canister - Get this from Rock Auto. seriously the least expensive place to get it - dont believe me, look for yourself. for $140 its almost half the normal prices, and about 25% that of part from hyundai. its manufactured by airtex.
exhaust gasket for rear section - need this
new O-ring for high pressure connection at tank - I simply went to my o-ring kits.
32" of zip ties (either 4 8" zip ties, 3 12", or one 36" will work)
spray adhesive
masking tape
tools needed:
hydraulic jack
jack stands
philips screw driver
small regular screw driver
8, 10, 12, 17, and 19mm wrenches and sockets
air compressor
process
run the car as low on fuel as possible
jack up aft of car, place jack stands under rear axle beam
remove left rear tire
remove mud flap
remove inner fender cover panel
disconnect 4 lines connected to carbon canister
remove bolt and drop carbon canister and purge valve
disconnect purge valve (need small screw driver to lift locking clip)
cut factory zip tie around rock shield
transfer the following items to new carbon canister: 4 hoses, purge valve, 2 rubber pads (this is where the spray adhesive and masking tape come in), and rock shield (this is the zip ties)
reinstall carbon canister, however do not connect yet.
remove gas cap
remove 4 screws on filler neck
remove 2 bolts holdinf filler neck to car
disconnect 5 hoses under car
remove filler neck assembly
filler neck assembly cleaning. there is a long glorified inverted p-trap on the filler neck assembly. this is now filled with wayward carbon pellets. the large 5/8" (16mm) tubes need to be back flushed in both directions with air. you will need to do this about 100 times or until the pellets stop coming out. you will also have to tap on the filler neck with a rubber mallet to help dislodge them. failure to do this step, and you still wont be able to fill the cars fuel tank
set cleaned filler neck asside
open trunk
remove carpet
pry small plastic cover over fuel tank up
disconnect the two electrical connections
disconnect the vent line
disconnect the high pressure line (fuel will be under pressure)
under vehicle - support fuel tank with hydraulic jack
remove fasteners holding e-brake cables
remove aft portion of the exhaust system
remove tank strap fasteners
slightly drop fuel tank
go back into trunk access, disconnect the little vent from the plastic filter assembly
go back under the car, carfully lower the tank and remove from the car
tank component cleaning - looking at the tank, there is a fuel pump assembly in the center, and the fill should be on the left side of you. remove the fuel pump assembly. remove the filler hose. make sure the over-turn valve is operational (I removed it to verify). there is an anti-siphon valve at the left most corner with a 5/8 hose assembly and a small 1/4 hose assmbly. this hose assembly will have carbon pellets in it. clean as required. remove the anti siphon valve, clean all the pellets out of it that are holding the check valve closed. Empty the tank into an appropriat catch. clean all the pellets out of the tank.
reinstall fuel pump, anti siphon valve, and vent lines
reinstall fuel tank under vehicle (reverse of removal)
install new o-ring in fuel pressure line (trust me, the old one will have become brittle and chunked out)
reinstall exhaust using new gasket
reinstall fuel fill assembly
reinstall inner fender cover
reinstall mud flap
reinstall left rear wheel
lower car
fill tank with 4 gallons of fuel or more
then go to gas station to fill up. you can now pump fuel into the car and the check engine light will have gone out.
Items that the dealer will have replaced, however not needed: purge solenoid, fuel filler vent filter.
total time 8 hours.
issue - 2000-2005 Hyundai Sonata fuel vent systems and slow fuel filling. plenty of threads on the Hyundai forums and you-tube, none actually completely address the problem. this affects many other models of Hyundai and Kia vehicles.
Symptoms - it becomes more and more difficult to fill the fuel tank, requiring a slower and slower fill until it nearly doesnt fill. Also, the check engine light (CEL) is lit.
Diagnosing the problem - pouring over countless forums and on-line solutions, the carbon canister appears to be an issue. there is even a Hyundai TSB. taking it to a dealer, and your faced with a really large bill (between $1100 and $1800). however in some instances, the problem is only partially fixed. However none of the on-line information that I found completely went thru the steps, or completely identified the cause.
Synopsis of issue - the carbon canister is a rectangular canister located under the left rear corner of the car on the left side. this is just below and behind the fuel fill. a screen mesh is supposed to keep the pellets contained. fuel and fuel vapor cause the charcoal pellets to swell enough, partially blocking vent flow. however the screen mesh also fails. that mesh fails between 90K and 100k miles on the car. when it fails, the little pellets decide to run rampant thru out the vent system like minions released while hopped up on mountain dew.
Items to purchase:
Carbon fuel vent canister - Get this from Rock Auto. seriously the least expensive place to get it - dont believe me, look for yourself. for $140 its almost half the normal prices, and about 25% that of part from hyundai. its manufactured by airtex.
exhaust gasket for rear section - need this
new O-ring for high pressure connection at tank - I simply went to my o-ring kits.
32" of zip ties (either 4 8" zip ties, 3 12", or one 36" will work)
spray adhesive
masking tape
tools needed:
hydraulic jack
jack stands
philips screw driver
small regular screw driver
8, 10, 12, 17, and 19mm wrenches and sockets
air compressor
process
run the car as low on fuel as possible
jack up aft of car, place jack stands under rear axle beam
remove left rear tire
remove mud flap
remove inner fender cover panel
disconnect 4 lines connected to carbon canister
remove bolt and drop carbon canister and purge valve
disconnect purge valve (need small screw driver to lift locking clip)
cut factory zip tie around rock shield
transfer the following items to new carbon canister: 4 hoses, purge valve, 2 rubber pads (this is where the spray adhesive and masking tape come in), and rock shield (this is the zip ties)
reinstall carbon canister, however do not connect yet.
remove gas cap
remove 4 screws on filler neck
remove 2 bolts holdinf filler neck to car
disconnect 5 hoses under car
remove filler neck assembly
filler neck assembly cleaning. there is a long glorified inverted p-trap on the filler neck assembly. this is now filled with wayward carbon pellets. the large 5/8" (16mm) tubes need to be back flushed in both directions with air. you will need to do this about 100 times or until the pellets stop coming out. you will also have to tap on the filler neck with a rubber mallet to help dislodge them. failure to do this step, and you still wont be able to fill the cars fuel tank
set cleaned filler neck asside
open trunk
remove carpet
pry small plastic cover over fuel tank up
disconnect the two electrical connections
disconnect the vent line
disconnect the high pressure line (fuel will be under pressure)
under vehicle - support fuel tank with hydraulic jack
remove fasteners holding e-brake cables
remove aft portion of the exhaust system
remove tank strap fasteners
slightly drop fuel tank
go back into trunk access, disconnect the little vent from the plastic filter assembly
go back under the car, carfully lower the tank and remove from the car
tank component cleaning - looking at the tank, there is a fuel pump assembly in the center, and the fill should be on the left side of you. remove the fuel pump assembly. remove the filler hose. make sure the over-turn valve is operational (I removed it to verify). there is an anti-siphon valve at the left most corner with a 5/8 hose assembly and a small 1/4 hose assmbly. this hose assembly will have carbon pellets in it. clean as required. remove the anti siphon valve, clean all the pellets out of it that are holding the check valve closed. Empty the tank into an appropriat catch. clean all the pellets out of the tank.
reinstall fuel pump, anti siphon valve, and vent lines
reinstall fuel tank under vehicle (reverse of removal)
install new o-ring in fuel pressure line (trust me, the old one will have become brittle and chunked out)
reinstall exhaust using new gasket
reinstall fuel fill assembly
reinstall inner fender cover
reinstall mud flap
reinstall left rear wheel
lower car
fill tank with 4 gallons of fuel or more
then go to gas station to fill up. you can now pump fuel into the car and the check engine light will have gone out.
Items that the dealer will have replaced, however not needed: purge solenoid, fuel filler vent filter.
total time 8 hours.
