Wire feed welders (MIG) Update

[Limited-Time]

So after reading all the replys and doing a lot of research I decided on a Hobart 210 MVP with the addition of a Spoolrunner 100 spool gun for aluminum work. I also opted for the argon/co2 shielding gas solid wire route for starters. The first attempt at MIG welding was "not to good" LOL. To many years smoking rods with a Lincon Duce and a Quarter "Buzz Box". The electrode speeds are way different and it's going to take burn time to get my technique dialed in. That and the pre welding prep seems to be way more critical with the MIG than AC stick.

 

[bruceb58]

Prep and fitment are the two things that need to be good to get a good weld.

I have 3 wire brushes in my welding table, One for steel, one for aluminum and one for stainless. Get in a habit of always using that brush or use a flap disk to remove the mill scale from hot rolled steel.

Make sure where you attach your grounding clamp is also clean.

You have the polarity hooked up correctly?

Let's see pics of your practice welds.

 

[bruceb58]

BTW...good welder. Combo voltage units are the best! I may actually update my 110V MIG with the same welder. the one thing I don't like about the Hobart are the tapped voltage outputs. I like to vary my voltage to get the perfect weld for the material I am working on. With tapped voltages, you have to vary your arc length to do the same.

Will be interesting to see how aluminum MIG welding works. I just use my TIG for aluminum. You will need a tank of 100% Argon for your aluminum welding.

 

[oldjeep]

Nice welder, should do anything you like. X2 on the cleanliness of your material, I always favored knot wheels on my angle grinder over hand brushes. Just steer clear of cup brushes on angle grinders unless you like picking wire out of your skin.

 

[Scott Danforth]

My mig has a handy chart on the inside of the lid to get you close in feed and amperage. I generally start there and adjust as needed.

The little 3M discs work great For weld prep. What ever you use, wire brush, small grinder, etc, keep them separate like Bruce mentioned.

For aluminum, besides the gas, you need to reverse polarity. I run a second short whip with a Teflon liner for aluminum.

I second the issue with cup brushes and angle grinders.

One last thing.... Get sleeves, gloves, and don't weld in shorts and flip flops

 

[Limited-Time]

Thanks for the responces. I'm so use to burning through a little paint, scale rust whatever I was suprised at what little contamanation will compromise the arc. The polarity is set correctly for solid wire with shilding gas so I'm good there. Also plan on replacing the P.O.S original ground clamp with a solid bronze style 300 amp

 

[oldjeep]

One last thing.... Get sleeves, gloves, and don't weld in shorts and flip flops

I always wear closed toe shoes, but do tend to weld in short sleeves and shorts. Most days I remember to wear gloves Good practice to cover up, but with MIG and clean material you shouldn't really get splatter, just some arc "tan"

 

[Limited-Time]

I plan on getting my technique dialed in on steel before I even attempt the aluminum welding. But I already have the argon jic lol. As for the brushes I've got the steel type just need to pick up some stainless for when I attempt smelting some aluminum.

 

[Limited-Time]

OK so I upgraded the ground clamp, cleaned the metal with a flap wheel and proceeded to lay some beads. Pretty cool! I just need to dial in my electrode speed. All my beads look "slow" according to the reference diagrams. I have yet to achieve the stack of dimes look. But I have managed a stack of cards look

 

[bruceb58]

You aren't going to get a stack of dimes look unless you use a circular motion while you drag your weld pool. Check out this thread.
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?30845-Mig-like-Tig
The guy that post there that is called ZTFab is an amazing welder. I have actually been to his shop out here in Pomona where he showed me his technique

 

[bruceb58]

I have a long sleeve welding shirt that I wear. I know a person in her 30's that died of melanoma so not worth getting UV exposure.

You can buy them on eBay pretty reasonably

 

[bruceb58]

Make sure you checkout the guy that owns this web page.

Most of his videos are on youtube

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

 

[MTboatguy]

No matter how hot it is outside, I wear my leathers when I am welding, it is not worth the risk.

 

[bruceb58]

I have a set of leathers I wear when doing Innershield MIG because of the splatter.

 

[Limited-Time]

Thanks for the input guys!! I've got all the welding gear. Leather apron elbow length welding gloves and leather boots. I've done the welders dance plenty of times welding in tennis shoes. As for the circular motion I've used a variant of that for years stick and oxy welding. I just need to dial it in on the MIG rig. BTW my wife thinks I'm crazy dressed in leather practice welding in a garage that's 85 plus degrees.
Checked out both those web sites. The guy from welding tips is amazing. And he's got some great vids.

 

[bruceb58]

You have a welding table? I made my own with a 1/2 steel top that I had CNC'd for me. I never realized how important it is to have a table until I started doing TIG. Mine is 50" by 32" so it's not super big. That piece of metal plate weighs 225# so I didn't want to get anything much heavier than that. I can weld perfectly square frames by clamping the steel to it and then welding.

 

[Limited-Time]

I have a 72 x 30 steel top table along with a well equipped prototyping machine shop, Bridgeport, and manual lathe along with CNC turning and vertical milling machines. Also band saws, surface grinders and other ancillary de-burring and finishing equipment. The only thing the shop lacks is fab equipment, welders benders breaks and such.

.

 

[bruceb58]

I have a 72 x 30 steel top table along with a well equipped prototyping machine shop, Bridgeport, and manual lathe along with CNC turning and vertical milling machines. Also band saws, surface grinders and other ancillary de-burring and finishing equipment. The only thing the shop lacks is fab equipment, welders benders breaks and such.

.

Very nice! I welded for a long time without a table. Didn't know what I was missing until I got one.

 

[Harritwo]

With Alum, it is critical to get clean. Old Metal is even more critical to be clean. Bruce said 100% Argon, I personally use 98/2 Argon O2 for alum and 75/25 Argon/Co for Steel/Stainless. Sleeves 100% of the time, Leathers for overhead. For thin alum, use a non-ferrous backing bar as a heat sink. x3 on the Dont Mix brushes, 3M pads on different metals.

 

[Limited-Time]

This is after about 20 min of practice