Time to learn to weld...

[bruceb58]

The HF helmets are good for MIG but my friend's HF does not work well for very low current TIG. It won't always auto darken. When he borrows my TIG welder, he always switches over to my helmet. I have a Jackson and a Miller(Not positive of the brand of it but it is my go to helmet).

 

[bigdee]

I bought a silver HF helmet when their cheapest one was about $80. I just leave it on top of my Hobart MIG machine and it has worked for close to 20 years now without replacing the battery or anything else. In my early days I used to weld with my face closer but now I see better further away so the lens covers last much longer. It needs to be cleaned often but that is about it. The head band padding is shot now but I still prefer it over my new one.

I've done lots of stick welding of all kinds of iron based metal with 1/8": 6011 rod. Several hundred pounds of it primarily on an AC "Buzz Box". Welds have been on a D-4 Cat frame to 1/16" thick sheet steel. The thin metals take more care but the puddle is the secret. Thicker metal is best "V'd" out first and multiple passes made cleaning between them. I usually use as low a current as I can get away with so the metal doesn't overheat and break next to the weld. Very seldom did I use over 90 amps on that rod.with that machine. Often in the 60 to 70 amp range. I used the low current range exclusively so the voltage would start out higher.

I was taught that the secret was to use as low amperage as you could start with and would make the puddle look right. Don't move too fast to get the proper penetration.

I'm not a certified welder but I've made all kinds of things like trailers, loaders, tools and whatever I want. I can't remember when was the last time I've had a weld break. Usually I struggle to get a simple weld separated when I want to make a change or reuse the material. An air grinder and plasma cutter are my friends.

You can make most any kind of welder work but I'm always up against the duty cycle. When you're up against the duty cycle time the welder doesn't work properly. Always leave it running to cool it down before shutting it off.

Just some of my thoughts and advise.

You soundlike a common sense kid of guy StarTed. I agree with under 90 amps being used most often. Also duty cycle is very important and often overlooked. That is why I love my little lunchbox HF inverter 80 amp welder....it has a 35% duty cycle at max amp setting and that gets higher on lower amperage. And if I ever exceed that the machine will automatically shut down.

 

[MTboatguy]

The HF helmets are good for MIG but my friend's HF does not work well for very low current TIG. It won't always auto darken. When he borrows my TIG welder, he always switches over to my helmet. I have a Jackson and a Miller(Not positive of the brand of it but it is my go to helmet).

Mine has a warning right in the manual, "Not for TIG" so I have never used it for that type of welding, but it does work great with my wire feed and other projects I have done, works great for grinding, it even has a setting for grinding.

 

[bruceb58]

Mine has a warning right in the manual, "Not for TIG" so I have never used it for that type of welding, but it does work great with my wire feed and other projects I have done, works great for grinding, it even has a setting for grinding.

Makes sense then.

I never use anything shaded for grinding. Maybe I should!

I have some glasses that are lightly shaded for my plasma cutter. They are about as dark as sunglasses

 

[JASinIL2006]

This is one I'm looking at...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200661437_200661437

 

[bruceb58]

This is one I'm looking at...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200661437_200661437

It will probably be fine. The more expensive helmets have a larger viewing window which is the main reason I upgraded my helmet. I had one of the first Jacksons that came out with auto dimming years ago. It had a window the size of that helmet.

 

[sphelps]

This is an interesting thread ... I also want to learn to weld . I bought a Hobart 220v stick welder a while back but have not had the chance to hook up a line for it yet .. Like most I just want to do some stuff around the house with it ...

 

[bruceb58]

This is one I'm looking at...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200661437_200661437

I looked at my helmet tonight and the viewing pane is very close to the same size as the one you are looking at.

 

[bruceb58]

Saw this today.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/BUYING-AN-A...ONIC-WELDING-HELMET-/10000000001267946/g.html

All this talk about welders is making me want to buy a new welder. Going to buy a Miller Millermatic 211. They go for a little over $1K.

 

[dingbat]

I hope the new auto shields are faster than they used to be. The last time I used one I spent the night in the hospital with blisters on my eyes after a 10 hour shift

 

[MTboatguy]

I hope the new auto shields are faster than they used to be. The last time I used one I spent the night in the hospital with blisters on my eyes after a 10 hour shift

Now a days even the less expensive ones are instant.

 

[bruceb58]

Personally, I would buy a more expensive helmet. Don't want to mess with your eyes. I would buy the Miller Performance Series helmet.

 

[dingbat]

Now a days even the less expensive ones are instant.

they where "instant" back then as well. Just not instant enough when burning 3/16" rods at 180-200 amps.

Got to believe that the technology has improved but still.

Working outside, going up 2 shades of lens was a better alternative when burning lower amp rods. I'd run 1/8" 5P rod (~ 130 amp) all day long with a #8 lense

 

[mla2ofus]

I bought a 3M spleedglas 100 AD, their cheapest, about 7 yrs ago and have done a lot of stick and mig w/ it set at #8 shade and have never had a problem w/ burnt eyes. It isn't solar powered and I haven't had to change the battery yet. Had a HF AD for 3 years before that and it just quit.
Mike

 

[JASinIL2006]

Well, just to follow up, since you all were so good in sharing your thoughts and opinions on the matter... I've decided I probably ought to get a 220v machine to make sure I have sufficient power to weld the stuff I'm likely to be working with. I really would like to get a dual-voltage machine (e.g., Millermatic 211), but those are just too expensive for me at this time.

The likely prospects at this time are Lincoln Electric's Pro Mig 180 or Lincoln Electric WeldPak 180 (these are essentially the same welder, just badged differently for Lowes and Home Depot, respectively). It handles both MIG and flux-core welding, has a 30% duty cycle (more than enough for my needs), and it can even weld aluminum with an optional spool gun.

Other than a mask (auto-darkening, which I already have), welding gloves, a slag hammer and wire brush, can you think of anything else I might need to pick up?

Also, I'd like to find some steel to practice on; is there any typical places to find cheap pieces that I could play around with?

 

[MTboatguy]

Do you have a Pacific Steel and Metals in your area, often times, they will sell cut offs pretty cheap if you let them know what you are doing, I purchase from them quite often when I am doing small projects. Sometimes it is odd shapes that they can't sell for anything else.

 

[gm280]

We have a wholesale metal warehouse near us and they sell to the individual as well. But you have to buy in stock lengths. And the charge by the pound per current price. But they will offer you one free cut per piece however you want it. And that way you can get it home without much trouble. Really is a great deal.

 

[dwco5051]

Watch the obituarys for my name. Show up the next day for the giant garage sale and my widow would probably sell you a couple of 55 gallon drums of scrap (no, I mean pieces that I would have used some day if I lived a little longer) steel for a buck.

 

[StarTed]

Old scrap metal is everywhere. Look in scrap yards, second hand stores, scrap dealers, along side the road and talk to others in the metal business. just grind some bright and have at it.

I'd add a mig pliers, a soapstone marker, some kind of grinder, some tip cleaning files, some clamps, files and non flammable clothing such as cotton.

One of the first things to consider building is some kind of stand to hold your projects. I have 4 stands I made that hold items at a comfortable height for me that I can set up in a convenient arrangement to work on. If I need a table I just lay a piece of metal on a couple of them and I have an instant table that doesn't require that much space to store. I also have a welding table I made but it is now buried under many clamps and other stuff so I don't use it any longer. I prefer the stands and flexibility they offer.

Good luck and welcome to the metal melting and pasting club.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Well, just to follow up, since you all were so good in sharing your thoughts and opinions on the matter... I've decided I probably ought to get a 220v machine to make sure I have sufficient power to weld the stuff I'm likely to be working with. I really would like to get a dual-voltage machine (e.g., Millermatic 211), but those are just too expensive for me at this time.



The likely prospects at this time are Lincoln Electric's Pro Mig 180 or Lincoln Electric WeldPak 180 (these are essentially the same welder, just badged differently for Lowes and Home Depot, respectively). It handles both MIG and flux-core welding, has a 30% duty cycle (more than enough for my needs), and it can even weld aluminum with an optional spool gun.

Other than a mask (auto-darkening, which I already have), welding gloves, a slag hammer and wire brush, can you think of anything else I might need to pick up?

Also, I'd like to find some steel to practice on; is there any typical places to find cheap pieces that I could play around with?

Salvage yards are a great place to find steel as they take many left over pieces for recycling. Local fabrication shops will have lots of scrap leftover from various projects. A 4-1/2" grinder and clamps are a must. With a MIG you'll need to make sure your steel is very clean where you weld, (which is why I prefer my trusty DC arc welder and 7018 rods). HF has cheap grinder discs, make sure you pick up some slicer discs to cut that steel as well. They work much better in most cases than a sawzall. Practice, good ventilation, and hot work safety is also a must. Make sure you keep some cooling water handy and above all have fun. I absolutely love the satisfaction of completing welding projects at home. Good stuff!!