Finally building an outdoor kitchen .May need some idea's /help .

southkogs

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I'm leaning toward the pecan too ... I think it'll look okay against the lights, but you kinda' gotta' test that out. Lookin' good.
 

sphelps

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I picked up a Natural and a light walnut stain to try .. The pecan looks good but not quite the same shade as the counters ..I want it kinda light because of the dark floors and counter ...
 

sphelps

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Some more samples ..

3 different stains and the same stains cut 50/50 with natural clear stain trying to make them lighter color ..
The middle was 1 coat of Woody's OTR and the little stripe on the side was the early American stain cut with natural over the OTR ...
It looks a little different in person than in the picture ...The Admiral likes the OTR ...
For making dark stain lighter whats the best thing to cut it with ? MS ?
Or am I on the right track by just using the natural stain of the same mfg ...All of the standard stains just seems to dark too me ...
 

jbcurt00

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You can mix stains just like you can paint. Just stick w the same stain family. So if you like pecan, but its a touch too dark, mix it 75/25 w natural. Still too dark, 50/50. I suspect you'll be happier w 60-75% pecan. 50% natural will make it too light, IMO.

My favorite stain 'color' for most woodwork projects is MinWax Golden Oak and Cherry mixed 50/50.

You can also use Wood Conditioner to pretreat wood to prevent uneven staining. That would prevent the blotchy effect on sample #3 labeled EAm (early american).

You can thin stain w thinner or MinSpirits, but that thins it, not really lightening it.

Try either the wood conditioner (straight) or natural stain (thinned 50/50) and then apply the stain color you like the best. The pre-treatment will prevent the wood from taking as much of the stain you like, making it a lighter shade of the same color, or nearly so. But you will need to wipe on, wipe off to help prevent over absorption during the 2nd staining.

Been 15yrs since I used natural stain that way or wood conditioner, may need to experiment a little to figure out the right wait time between wipe on wipe off of each step and the time between the 2 stainings.

In the heat, you probably dont want to leave the pre treated wood to dry overnight ~ 24hrs. Then it'd be more likely to absorb more of the 2nd staining.

The pretreat will give you more even coverage though, esp on pine.
 

sphelps

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Jb , great advice as always ! I found that the OTR acts like a wood conditioner more or less ..
Kc , Cool tricks on the vids .. After watching I have made a couple of rustic look samples using the blue paint I mixed and I just mixed some white and letting it dry .. I used the enamel with hardener ... First sample came out pretty cool ! I doubt I will go with that on the bar but ya never know ....
Once done it's kinda done .. :D
 

sphelps

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Here is a couple of weathered look samples ... We are still not sure what we want to do yet but hopefully narrowing it down ... You would think it would be an easy decision ..If I could keep the raw wood look and seal it without turning it yellow that's what we prefer ...Any other products out there that won't turn yellow ? The polyurethane turns it too yellow ..

I filled most all the nail holes with minwax natural wood putty ... I didn't have my reading glasses on or I would have read that it does not harden ... I hope I can stain over with no problem ... You can clean it up with some sand paper but it still gooey .. :facepalm:
 

nurseman

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Sam, the water-based polyurethane does not turn yellow, you might give that a try. I used Minwax's "Polycrylic" on a couple of jobs back in my contractor days because the customer didn't want their stain color to change after the poly. I thought it worked really well. It dries very fast, so you can get multiple coats on in a day. I don't think it is as durable as regular polyurethane, so you might want a few more coats than if you were using regular stuff. JMO
 
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kcassells

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sphelps

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Kc I took a bit of time to cut the pieces to minimize old nail holes and cracks ... I had to use trim screws instead of nails so the screws left some larger holes .. Just think it looks more finished by filling em ... If I had used a brad nail gun I prolly wouldn't have worried filling them ..
I picked up a pint of the polycrylic and gave it a try .... It did not turn the wood yellow .. A tad darker maybe ... No final decision but leaning toward the no stain ..
Even after a boat load of samples .. :facepalm:
 

kcassells

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That being said of your work and the pics you posted surely does show your "Craftmanship"! You must be pulling your hair out about what to finish the wood with. I feel ya, been there do that. At the end whatever you choose will be perfect.
You're kickin butt! ;)
 

sphelps

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Door prototype ... Plain and simple and easy enough for me to throw together with my lack of woodworking tools/skills ...:facepalm:
Took the day off to have a new water filter system installed at my well so while I'm here I plan on making plenty of sawdust . ;)
 

gm280

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Sam I always enjoy seeing your work. You give me tons of ideas all the time. And you do quality work as well. I know how to build most things you build, and equally know the effort involved as well. And you do have a quality craftsmanship to your work. Keep posting. I keep learning. :thumb: :thumb:
 

sphelps

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Thanks gm ,kc .. I thought about a center piece like those Kraftmaid doors ... The reclaimed wood I am using on the center sections are 1/2"x6" and the sides are a full 1" ... I think I like them without the center piece .. I just need to take the time to make sure that the center board mate together nice and straight before trimming to fit .. The prototype was just stuck together with no real prefitting .. I am debating on trying to dowel the 2 pieces together somehow before assembly ... I did try and use a galv nail with the heads cut off as a dowel ... That actually worked pretty well ... This will be the first attempt at building any type of cabinet door for me .... Good thing I'm going for the rustic look ! :lol:
On a different note we got the new water system set up ..Really spent most of the day dealing with that ... But I did manage to get all the side pieces for the doors cut and ready to go other than cutting the tenons on the ends of the horizontal pieces ... Hope to have them all doweled and glued by the end of the weekend ...
Nurseman I could use some clamps ! :D
 

sphelps

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I got all the doors cut and 2 of them doweled and glued ... I picked up a doweling jig from h/f ... Seems to working ok .. I have been keeping an eye out for a better table saw ... Picked this one up for 75 bucks off c/l ..


Way better than the poc I had ..

:facepalm: Sad isn't it ... :facepalm:
I will be glad to past this part and move to other things .. I guess next will be building the drawers ... This also will be a first attempt ..
 

nurseman

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I just got back from a family reunion on the Admirals side in the Black Hills,so I just am getting caught up with things! I will get some clamps sent out right away...:crazy:
Doors look nice.

BTW, that old Delta looks good! I like the belt drives...nice and quiet.
 

sphelps

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update .. Got all the doors and the 3 drawers built and slides installed .... The slides was a real pita ! I really could use a trained spider monkey or some GoGo Gadget arms and neck .. :lol:
Put the first coat of sealer on doors . It really soaked it in ...
 

sphelps

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The base cabinets are for the most part done other than the trim around the glass blocks and corbels..
Nurseman , thanks for the heads up on the Polycrylic ... It gave us just the look we were wanting ...



The corbels are gunna be plain and simple ...Easy to make and I think will fit right in ..

I used a whole gallon of the polycrylic on 4 coats .. There may be a half inch left in the bottom of the can ..
Moving on to other stuff real soon !
Cheers everyone !
 
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