any lawn folks here?

redneck joe

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Put in a pool this winter and brought in 12 loads of dirt. Planted fescue this spring, watering the heck out of it then BAM; within two weeks crabgrass had taken over everything. I figured oh well it's green and not much I can do this year. About 2/3 the yard was 'infected' so about 1/2 acre.

So in planning my attack, I find that it is an annual but of course the seeds are horrible.

Here's my plan:
  1. I'll start moving low in a month or so (currently I mow to highest setting about 4")
  2. Thatch a few times in from mid to late fall
  3. Overseed the crap out of it with more Fescue
  4. Let crabgrass die this fall hopefully we'll have a good frost
  5. Pre-emergent stuff a couple times next year April to June

Do you think the new seed will establish thru the low cut crabgrass? What is best fertilizer for newly planted grass in the fall? What else? I'm thinking this is going to be a couple year battle....
 

aspeck

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More like a lifetime battle! Must have had a bunch of crabgrass in the dirt that was brought in. I am in an ongoing battle and about to give up and just have a crabgrass lawn ... at least it is green!
 

rbh

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Here is what I did with bunch grass, let the grasses and weeds grow high, water like crazy to soften up the ground, dig up the bunches of weeds/bad grass, reseed weeded patches, let it keep growing and the good grass should choke out the remaining weeds
Only downside was that it took awhile to cut 2+ feet of good grass.
 

jkust

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So was there crabgrass already present in the place where you laid the 12 loads of dirt down? I like your plan of action except that at least for my yard, it only takes one early pre emergent treatment and no crabgrass shows up in my established yard at home. Quack grass on the other hand still shows up and refuses to die out no matter how thick the grass gets. I'd be curious how good the crabgrass specific sprays work. I tried an early iteration of the spray when I first saw it for sale when the crab first started showing up and it damaged all of my grass so never tried it again.

I'm going to need to do exactly what you are describing at my lake house. I tried a 30 by 15 foot section as a test/start and basically where I put the black dirt on thick plus some pit sand to level the area out, it worked out well with only broadleaf weeds from the grass seed growing and where I put the black dirt on thin with no pit sand, the original weeds and crab grass grass popped through in some spots.
 

redneck joe

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no the yard was in it's 7th year of Joe love and was looking pretty sharp; never had a crabgrass issue or used anything other than spot applied broadleaf formula. About half the yard got new dirt and the rest that was damaged got old dirt put back over it. (septic lines we not where they were supposed to be so had a 40'x20' area scraped top layer of until hit a line)
 
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southkogs

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If you're primary voting results went like mine did last week ... I think I'm with you on your new avatar. :rolleyes:

I'm no expert, but my neighbor is ... so, I try to follow suit. Fescue is a pure pain here in TN. It really struggles to survive, though this year it's had a much easier time because it's been so mild. Aerate/thatch and over seed in the fall (He suggested Scott's Southern Gold). Do it in early September, water the dickens outta' it and let the grass get going through October and November - don't worry about weeds too much (except maybe picking them out of the lawn).

In March, start out with a good pre-emergent before the crab grass gets established. You'll probably want a second application into April or May, and do a little weed and feed through the summer. But hit it early enough and you should be looking pretty good by May.
 

Gyrene

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Use "Turf type Tall Fescue" Spray with Weed-B-Gone with crabgrass killer - may take 2 shots. I have a back-pack sprayer, holds 2 gallons.
I would not cut short, the crabgrass is by nature lower than you can mow.
 

angus63

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I tend to just throw seed at any bare spots the dog claimed as his territory, keep it mowed short and let nature run its course. My motto "God is my landscaper"!
 
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redneck joe

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I would not cut short, the crabgrass is by nature lower than you can mow.

yeah I was thinking might help the seeds hit dirt? Or thatch, seed, thatch would get it down there? I'll be using a pull behind form the riding mower.
 
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Gyrene

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yeah I was thinking might help the seeds hit dirt? Or thatch, seed, thatch would get it down there? I'll be using a pull behind form the riding mower.
Definitely thatch.
I contacted an online helpline about the weed-b-gone: Don: Does weed-b-gone with crabgrass control use a pre-emergent on the crabgrass?
Don: I want to kill the crabgrass and put down good seed
Nyffisa: It actually takes care of the crabgrass that is present.
Nyffisa: But if you notice after seeding that crabgrass is coming back you can do another applicaiton about 3 weeks after seeding.
Don: It won't prevent good grass seed from germinating?
Nyffisa: We want you to wait 3 weeks before or after using the Weed B Gon to seed. As long as you wait it will not affect the germination
 

southkogs

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Thatching is good, but if your ground is anything like mine is you need to run the aerator across to dig in a little. You want the over seeds to hit those plugs/holes and get a little into the ground.
 

redneck joe

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my neighbor has a blade aerator I was thinking of buying a plug one - with all the ground work this year the yard is bumpy as hell and hoping over a couple of years that would help smooth out.



I also hit up Scotts online chat to see if they gave same answer.
You are now chatting with 'CheRee'
CheRee: Hello, how may I help you today?
joe: hi. Info on Weed B Gone Max Plus Crabgrass Control Concentrate
joe: lots of new dirt this year
joe: seeded, but the crabgrass beat the fescue
joe: want to kill the crabgrass
joe: but leave what little fescue took hold
joe: then resead.
joe: is htis the product I need?
CheRee: I would be glad to assist you with that, when did you reseed?
joe: and don't judge me by my lack of typing skills
CheRee: That is ok, I am not judgmental.
joe: reseeded with fescue 31 (i think) in april(ish)
CheRee: Thank you, this is the product that you want and it is safe for you to apply it to your new lawn.
joe: any limitation on when to reseed?
joe: after apllication?
CheRee: Yes, if you apply this product first, you have to wait 3weeks before planting new grass seeds. If you plant grass seeds first, you have to wait until you have mowed your lawn three times before applying this product.
joe: ok one last question what is the difference on this? 9994610 Weed-B-Gon Max Plus Crabgrass Control
CheRee: What is the difference between Weed B gon Plus Crabgrass and what?
joe: sorry the first one has a diff number (9992810)
CheRee: I do apologize, however I am not finding a product with them numbers.
joe:http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11532525&KPID=10119079&pla=pla_10119079
CheRee: one moment please
CheRee: Your patience is appreciated. I will be with you shortly
CheRee: Both products are the same, they both say Ortho Weed B gon Max plus crabgrass control.



So it looks like

spray
wait
aerate
thatch
wait (three weeks)
seed
wait until spring
 

Thalasso

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In Oct (beginning) spray with Roundup to kill the crabgrass. Come Nov get yourself an aerator, seed, and pellitized lime. Aerate,seed and in Dec you will have a nice yard.
 
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Gyrene

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In Oct (beginning) spray with Roundup to kill the crabgrass. Come Nov get yourself an aerator, seed, and pellitized lime. Aerate,seed and in Dec you will have a nice yard.

In nearly all of the continental US,
1) roundup will kill everything
2) seed will not germinate in November
3) in December you'll have frozen dirt and no grass.
 
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